Monday 18 July 2022

One of the World's Greatest Train Journeys - The Tranz Alpine, New Zealand


 
I love train journeys, they are  absolutely my favourite way to travel.  As far back as I can remember I had wanted to take a trip on New 
Zealand's Tranz Alpine which travels from the east coast of New Zealand's South Island to the west coast.  A couple of months ago I finally got the opportunity. So many people had told me what an amazing experience this was and I was hoping I wouldn't be disappointed or be expecting too much....I wasn't in either case. It is always great to discover that all the fulsome praise heaped on something turns out to be accurate. This trip is definitely deserving of all the accolades, if you visit the South Island I would say it is a must do. 

A misty day on the journey to Greymouth

Early in the morning I boarded the train in Christchurch and settled into my very comfortable seat with its wide panoramic windows, looking forward excitedly to the journey ahead. It was drizzling as we left the city to cross the flat farmlands of the Canterbury plains and I crossed my fingers that the rain would ease before we reached the alps. Just beyond the small town of Springfield we could see the tall peaks of the Southern Alps ahead and I  wondered how the train would ever get through.  But get through it did by following the tracks along the pure, aqua, alpine water of the Waimakariri River. 



The Waimakariri River


The slow climb up to the Craigieburn Plains took us through 15 short tunnels and across 4 dramatic viaducts, the most spectacular being the 72 metre high Staircase Viaduct.  By then the drizzle had abated and there was just an eerie mist swirling around the peaks. The views of the snow capped mountains and vast empty valleys were stunning. 



 It was freezing out on the open air observation carriage but I was so enamored of the sights I didn't mind and spent plenty of time out there enjoying and photographing the views. 


Then back to my seat for a nice warming cup of coffee before a scheduled stop at Arthur's Pass where we got off the train to stand in the softly fluttering snow flakes and fill our lungs with the purest of air. 




After Arthur's Pass the train started its descent to the west coast through the 8.5 km Otira Tunnel, the second longest tunnel in the world when it was built in 1923. 

Once we popped out of the tunnel we were in an entirely different landscape.  The west coast of the South Island is renowned for its rain and that is reflected in the lush, green, dripping and primeval scenery. We traveled between high hills, along river valleys and skirted the exquisite Lake Brunner before pulling into Greymouth Railway Station four and a half hours after leaving Christchurch. 

The tiny workers village of Otira, miles from anywhere, nestled under the mountains

Lake Brunner



The lush, verdant, dripping landscape coming into Greymouth


I was elated, it had been all I'd hoped for from the plains, to mountains, rivers to lakes, ancient and unspoiled landscapes.  Imagine my delight when I made the return journey a few days later to find perfect weather and the snow capped mountains bathed in a pink glow from the setting sun.  It was absolutely magical.

The return journey was even more spectacular




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