The Exquisite Hokitika Gorge, South Island, New Zealand

 Very early on a Sunday morning I drove the 33 kilometres from Hokitika, on the west coast of the South Island, to the tiny settlement of Kokotahi and then on to the sublime Hokitika Gorge.  This wasn't the first time I had visited the gorge and I hope it won't be my last since it is one of my favourite places in New Zealand. There wasn't a soul around so I had the whole gorge to myself. It was absolute bliss.

          

I entered the track from the car park and was immediately
immersed in lush native bush, ferns,  rimu and podocarps. What joy to breathe in the fresh, ferny, earthy air. A few minutes walk along an easy, and wheel chair accessible, path I came to the  first viewing platform which offers spectacular views of the famous turquoise water flowing through the gorge.  This beautiful, unusual colour is the result of glaciers in the nearby mountain range grinding rocks to a fine powder which when combined with the water gives it a milky effect. On every occasion I have visited the gorge the water has been this sublime colour but be aware that in some weather conditions it is not so vibrantly turquoise.

The superbly maintained 2 kilometre long track winds along the sides of the river between granite walls and heavenly native bush.  As this is New Zealand there is no dangerous wild life to fear. There are plenty of places to stop and admire the view and two swing bridges to cross the river....fun if you are not nervous about the swaying and the height of the second one! Fortunately I'm not and as I was alone on the track I could spend plenty of time on the bridges suspended over the water, absorbing the view.

The walk could be done in half an hour if walked steadily, but why not pause and enjoy?  Recommendation is to take at least 45 minutes.  I spent an hour and a half there because I love the place and didn't want to leave. 

I believe the track can be crowded and busy during peak tourist season but by getting up very early I had it all to myself and saw only another couple of people arrive as I was leaving. Magic!

NOTE: Sand flies can be prolific here so take your bug spray

There are toilets in the car park

There is no charge to enter the gorge and walk the track

Do it!  It is stunning and you will be blown away

Hokitika, New Zealand - A Cool Little Town

 There is something about Hokitika that has stolen my heart.  On the face of it it is just another small town on the west coast of New Zealand's South Island, struggling with the after effects of our long covid lockdowns,  like so many other small towns, but for me  Hokitika is still the whole package.  Not only does it have a rich history dating back before European settlement, very friendly locals and a whole host of heritage buildings, but it is also a  centre for artists and is blessed with a stunning landscape.  As a big city dweller and all that goes with living in a big city, a trip to Hokitika is refreshing and really makes my heart sing.

View from Hokitika to the alps and New Zealand's highest mountain, Mt Cook

The town of Hokitika was founded in 1864 as the centre of the West Coast gold rush.  It's hard to believe now, with its current population of around 3000, that in 1866 it was one of New Zealand's most populated centres boasting the busiest port in the country and 101 hotels. The town's major industries were greenstone, gold, coal and forestry.  As those industries have declined they have been replaced by dairy farming and increasingly, ecotourism.

Back before there was even a township West Coast Maori discovered the beautiful pounamu, otherwise known as greenstone or New Zealand jade, in the nearby river beds and along the beaches.  It was very precious to them as its strength and beauty made it perfect for weapons, tools and personal decoration. To own or wear greenstone was a proud symbol of status.  In Hokitika you can visit galleries to watch carvers at work preparing greenstone jewellery and art works for sale.  The town boasts several different artists studios from glass blowers to photographers, potters to wood carvers and many others. 

A standout feature of Hokitika is the wild and wonderful beach which runs the length of the town.  I could happily spend endless hours walking the beach in any sort of weather. On my recent visit the weather was wet and wild and I was mesmerised by the waves rolling in and crashing on the shore.  It was quite other worldly. The beach is strewn with driftwood which the locals celebrate each year with the Driftwood and Sand festival.  People come from all over New Zealand and overseas to view and admire the intricate sculptures and the town's  famous  "Hokitika" sign sculptured from driftwood. The popular Wild Foods festival in March celebrates all sorts of weird and wonderful food.

I am a great lover of heritage buildings and Hokitika has a lot to choose from.  Get a map for the heritage trail from the information centre, as I did, and take a two hour stroll around town to view them. 

The locals fought hard to save their art deco cinema, now beautifully
 restored

The Customs House dating from 1897

Old Government Buildings built between 1909 and 1911

I love the friendliness of Hokitika.  I called into the local stationers and ended up having a long friendly chat with the owner. One evening I had dinner at  Stumpers restaurant, great food and a warm and welcoming atmosphere.  I was on my own but had pleasant conversations with people at the nearby tables, that doesn't often happen in a big city.  One of the things I really enjoyed was joining the locals to greet a large contingent of motor scooter riders who had braved the freezing temperatures to ride over the mountain pass from Christchurch to raise money for charity.  For just a few moments I felt like a local although it is said that unless you are born on the coast you can never call yourself a coaster!

Hanging with the locals, fun times.

When my son brought his new Irish wife to New Zealand for a belated honeymoon a number of years ago they toured many of the South Island's famous beauty spots but it was Hokitika she fell for.  My late husband went to Hokitika for work on  several occasions and he too was captured by the place.  It was one of the last places we visited before he died. It holds great memories for me and I  can't wait to go back. A Cool Little Town indeed.

NOTE: The novel The Luminaries by Eleanor Catton, winner of the Man Booker prize in 2013 is set in Hokitika.

www.coollittletown.com