Bruny Island, Tasmania - A Relaxing, laid back delight

 I really loved Bruny Island.  Just a short 20 minute by sea from the bottom of Tasmania, it is a small island off the big island. The ferry trip is scenic and pleasant and the moment you arrive on Bruny Island you get those laid back, relaxing island vibes.  It reminded me of arriving on Waiheke Island in Auckland, one of my favourite places in the world.

Our first stop on the island was at Truganini Lookout, named to honour a famous aboriginal woman who was a prominent leader of the Palawa tribe of the island.  There are 297 steps from the road to the lookout so it's not for the faint hearted but well worth the effort if your lungs and heart can take it.  The views are stunning giving a panoramic view of both sides of the narrow neck of land.

There's an awful lot of stairs to the lookout

One of the charming things about islands that is not quite so common on the mainland, and never seen in cities,  is the good old honesty box.  On Bruny we stopped at 3 shabby disused fridges by the side of the road.  Inside them was the most delicious freshly baked bread so, of course, we bought some and shared it around our mini bus as we travelled on. 

Note the coin box for purchases between two of the fridges

Next, to my great delight, we went to the Bruny Island lighthouse.  Frequent readers of this blog will know I have a real love for lighthouses.  It was a long steep climb up  but definitely worth it for the spectacular views in all directions.  The disused keeper's cottage below is now a small museum so I took the time to look at the history of the lighthouse on display there.  I really enjoyed this stop and my wander around the grounds surrounding the cottage.

Below: A view from the lighthouse

After a very tasty and generous seafood chowder for lunch at the Bruny Hotel we visited the tiny Bligh Museum at Adventure Bay. This is a private museum built from 26,000 convict made bricks. Inside is a rare collection of paintings, photos and documents related to the landings of explorers, William Bligh (of Bounty fame), James Cook and Matthew Flinders.  This was a short stop for us so we gave the museum a 'once over lightly'.  I'm sure with time to spare it would be absorbing. The museum is set in a lovely garden, opposite a beautiful beach.  A very pleasant place to stop.

The rest of our afternoon was spent visiting the Bruny Island Cheese company for cheese tastings and wine and at the Get Shucked (bit of Aussie humour there) oyster farm to devour the freshest of fresh oysters. 

Late afternoon we returned to mainland Tasmania by ferry. It's a good sign when you are reluctant to leave a place and I was reluctant to leave Bruny Island. This had been a fantastic day combining so many of the things I enjoy.   It is only 76 kms or 47 miles from Hobart so would make an ideal day trip for visitors to the city, I recommend it.

Anzac Day in Tasmania - Commemorating a special day for both Australia and New Zealand

 Anzac Day is a very important day for Australians and New Zealanders, probably one of the most important days in our calendar.  ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps and is a day of remembrance for the soldiers of both countries lost in war. It is a solemn day starting with either dawn or morning ceremonies in most towns of New Zealand and Australia.  It is also a day where citizens of both countries feel united and patriotic, coming together as brothers and sisters to remember those who sacrificed their lives for their homelands. I attend an ANZAC ceremony every year with my family in New Zealand.

Most of our tour group were either New Zealanders or Australians and we were very keen to commemorate Anzac Day somehow, despite being far from home  in a remote part of Australia. We were even discussing ways to hold our own ceremony.  As luck would have it the Hotel Lufra, at Eaglehawk Neck where we were spending the night was hosting an Anzac dawn ceremony the next morning.  Excellent, problem solved.

The flag flying in commemoration ( note: most of the people were behind me)

At 6.30am about 60 people gathered on the hotel lawn, some wearing military medals.  The ceremony was simple and very moving. An ex military man gave a short speech, there was a minute's silence for personal reflection, the Australian flag was raised up the flag pole and the Last Post was played as the dawning sky turned the sea a soft pink.  Then, as is also traditional, everyone proceeded to breakfast and I did spot a few hardy souls enjoying early liquid refreshments while sharing memories of lost relatives and the special camaraderie of their past military sevice.

For me and my fellow New Zealanders this was a very special celebration of Anzac Day. It was such a good feeling to feel so close to, and in tune with, our nearest neighbours in Australia.

Cradle Mountain, the Jewel in Tasmania's Crown

 Every time I mentioned I was going to Tasmania people asked "Are you going to Cradle Mountain?"  It was clear it's one of the state's most treasured locations so all of my tour group were looking forward to going there. You can't  drive right into Cradle Mountain National Park, you must board a shuttle bus which takes you right in. It is a scenic alpine trip but what really made it for us was the bus driver, a true blue Aussie who kept up a very amusing, joke filled commentary all the way.

We left the bus at Dove Lake but unfortunately the mountain was cloaked in thick fog making it impossible to get even a glimpse of it so we took a short walk beside the lake to the boat house.  It was really beautiful, quite atmospheric in the fog, and with pretty reflections on the glass like water.

After a short break, we set off for a very long walk across the alpine terrain.  For quite a while it was difficult, clambering over rocks and stones and through muddy patches but eventually we came to a board walk which made it a lot easier, apart from the fact that we had to avoid the prolific wombat droppings across the path.  Nevertheless we were delighted to see wombats and echidnas just living their lives in the wild.

Wombat

Echidna

This is a great area for hikers there are many different trails

At the top of a slope is an exact replica of the cottage of Gustav and  Kate Weindorfer, lodge keepers and botanists, who lived in and loved the area in the early 1900s and worked hard to achieve Protected Status for the region.  We sat and rested inside the cottage before making our way back to the shuttle bus. 

Inside the Weindorfer's cottage

Before heading to our hotel we visited a tasmanian devil and quoll sanctuary.   Tasmania devils are ugly little things with a horrible screech, hence their name, but the quolls are cute enough and we were pleased to have seen so much of Australia's interesting and diverse wild life in one day.

Tasmanian Devil

Quoll

We spent the night at the lovely Cradle Mountain Hotel, enjoying drinks and conversation beside a roaring fire before dinner. We hadn't seen the mountain but we had still had an enjoyable and satisfying day. And then our wonderful guide came up with an idea, she moved our itinerary around a bit so we could try and see the mountain again the next day. In the morning we took two short walks, one to Pencil Pine Falls, very peaceful, before heading right into the park and what a joy it was to see the mountain clearly with just a bit of fog swirling around.  

Cradle Mountain

Very impressive.  We were delighted, contented and happy to continue on our travels which took us past a spectacular mountain range and into the pretty little town of Sheffield.

Sheffield is known as the mural town for its colourful murals everywhere and for a well known identity who sits outside a cafe every day with his tame, pet llama named Pedro. 

A man and his llama.  Note part of the mural depicting them on the right. 

After a good long coffee break we went to an arboretum where we strolled among vibrantly coloured autumn leafed trees and saw platypus making brief appearances above the water, too fast to photograph.

Our stop for the night was back at the Grand Chancellor Hotel, Launceston and in the morning we were heading south.

Tasmania - Absolute Serenity in the Tasmanian Wilderness

 If you are looking for a complete get away in a beautiful and serene location you can't go past Corinna Wilderness Village, Tasmania. Originally a mining village, with a rich history, the lodge is located on the edge of the beautiful Pieman River and nestled into the ancient Tarkine rain forest. Accommodation is in spacious cottages spread over a large area. The cottages have no internet, no television and no phone, it is bliss, I could happily spend several days there just chilling.

My Cottage at Corinna Wilderness Village

Pieman River in the Tarkine rain forest

 We were to have just one night  but we made the most of it. Once settled into our cottages we went for a walk along the river's edge, very pretty, the only sounds, bird song, leaves rustling in the trees and the gentle slapping of waves along the pathway. Our guide pointed out various plants and the famous Huon Pines, some of them over a thousand years old. The trees on the opposite side of the river glowed golden in the setting sun. It was good to be in such a peaceful place so far from the troubles of the world.

Dinner was a convivial affair for our group in the the lodge restaurant, The Tarkine Hotel, and then back in my cottage I lit the gas fire, read my book and relished the silence.

Next morning was a simple breakfast, a short walk, and then we were off again, catching the barge to cross the Pieman River, a brief but scenic trip.

Driving onto the barge, Pieman River

An hour later found us in the mining town of Zeehan. It appeared to have been very grand once judging by some of the buildings in the main street but now looked faded and it was cold and filled with smoke from a nearby controlled burn off. Nevertheless I still enjoyed this insight into a small Tasmanian mining town and it was a pleasure to see the excitement of one of our group visiting the town where her mother had lived many years ago.

Grand buildings, main street Zeehan

Mining equipment and smoke, Zeehan

There was time for a quick coffee from cheerful women in a coffee cart before driving towards Cable Mountain, passing a large zinc and tin mine in the small town of Rosebery on the way. At the modern, spacious, Cradle Mountain Visitors centre we paused to eat the packed lunch provided by the Corinna Wilderness Village. We were planning to spend the afternoon exploring this magnificent area.  

Cradle Mountain is worthy of its status as one of the most treasured and iconic places in Tasmania.  It deserves its own blog post so will be the subject of my next one.

Tasmania, Australia, Day 2, Hiking and Spectacular Scenery

This was a day to do some short hikes and sample some of Tasmania's spectacular scenery. In perfect weather we set off on our first hike through pristine native bush to the Trowatta Arch. This unique formation is the result of the collapse of an ancient limestone cave. The hike is enjoyable, through lush ferns, trees and many different funghi. Our very knowledgeable guide, Stacey, stopped now and then to provide us with interesting information on the flora and fauna within the bush. The track eventually took us down a number of stairs to what I can only say is an other worldly view. The rock arch frames a sink hole filled with water and lime green duck weed. It really is quite magical. To everyone's excitement a small owl was perched on a ledge eyeing us with suspicion. This hike reminded me very much of the West Coast of the South Island of  New Zealand. It only takes 30 minutes and is a must do if you are in the area.

Our next short hike led us to Lake Chisholm  and was a little more challenging as we negotiated slippery tree roots all the way. I was pleased I had brought my hiking pole. Interestingly, although not far from our first hike the trees along this walk were quite different.  The lake, surrounded by bush, was small, serene and a pleasant place to stop for a while and enjoy the tranquillity broken only by the sound of the occasional fish jumping. 

Our third walk was along a non slip pathway through magnificent temperate rain forest, under giant myrtle beech trees and  beside the tannin stained Julius River. I'm always happy beside a stream, river or waterfall so really enjoyed this walk. Our drive from the river was up through dense bush where we stopped at a lookout to view the river far down in the valley below.

Right: Julius River in the valley

We were having a fantastic day hiking and viewing all different types of bush and scenery however after an hour long drive we arrived at what was for me the highlight of the day, The Edge of The World, at Gardiners Point. This wild, remote and stunning landscape bears a plaque stating that the view out to sea is the longest uninterrupted stretch of ocean on the planet, the next land being Argentina 15,000ks away. As the area is subject to the high winds of the infamous Roaring Forties the coast is littered with huge amounts of driftwood, absolute mountains of it. It is wild and wonderful. Staring out to sea and imagining the waves tossing trees like match sticks is a humbling experience.  

Argentina is out there somewhere

Fortunately for us there was only a light wind and conditions were pleasant and then the sun broke through some clouds and turned a patch of sea into burnished gold.  It was glorious and a fitting way to end what had been a marvellous day's sight seeing.

Tasmania, Australia - Launceston, Devonport, Penguin and The Nut

 A glorious autumn afternoon greeted me on my arrival at Launceston.  A bit weary after rising at 2.30am to fly firstly to Melbourne and then onto Launceston I checked into my hotel and set out on what I thought would be a gentle walk to perk myself up. The first thing I noticed about this town of around 90,000 was the number of lovely old houses and buildings lining the streets.  They really added a certain charm to the place. I wandered into City Park, bemused by the enclosure of well cared for macaque monkeys at the entrance, stopping for a while to enjoy their antics. They had been a gift from the city of Ikeda, Japan in 1981 to mark their sister city relationship with Launceston. The park  glowed golden in the low autumn sun with shafts of sunlight filtering through the large trees. 

 In the centre of the park is the most ornate drinking fountain I have ever seen. It was erected in 1897 to mark Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee.

 I left the park hoping to find a pleasant restaurant or bar on the edge of the river but instead took myself in the wrong direction and ended up in a light industrial area with an elevated railway track blocking any view.  Oh well, them's the breaks, as they say.  Having walked a fair distance by then I simply headed back to my hotel for dinner and a rest.

The next morning it was time to meet my Intrepid Tours group to set out on a 9 day tour titled The Best of Tasmania.  At 8am we gathered in the hotel lounge, a super group of really interesting and friendly people.  I could see this was going to be a fun trip.  Our guide, Stacey, arrived,  bubbly, very knowledgeable, capable and friendly and an amazing driver to boot. Packed and ready we headed off to our first stop at the pretty coastal town of Devonport.

Devonport ( pop 50,000) is a port town and the gateway to Tasmania for The Spirit of Tasmania ferry from the mainland of Australia. As I have written in previous blogs, I love light houses so was very happy that we made our first stop at the Mersey Bluff lighthouse.  It towers majestically over the ocean offering, as all light houses do, a safety beacon for passing ships.  Just down the hill from the light house is the Tiagarra Cultural Centre where we were to have a cleansing ceremony and learn about the culture of  the Palawa/ Pakana people, the indigenous Tasmanians of the North West region.

As we gathered around a fire pit, welcome since there was a freezing cold wind, we had our faces dabbed with customary markings in ochre by the cultural centre guides.  We were then given branches of eucalyptus leaves to put in the fire and smoke ourselves in what is a traditional cleansing ritual. From there we moved into the cultural centre for a very interesting tour led by guide, Erin. Erin was articulate and I learnt a lot about the life, art and customs of the Palawa/Pakana people.  I would highly recommend this tour.

 (Note: the ochre sets solid and is hard to remove, have wet wipes at the ready)

At the cleansing ceremony

Back on our bus and heading west along the northern coast our next stop was at the town of Penguin, which, as you would imagine, rejoiced in the theme of penguins with punny names on shops and pictures and statues of penguins scattered about.   It is another pretty coastal town where we stopped for lunch, most of our group heading to the Penguin Brewery for a meal and a local beer After lunch  I took a walk along the beach admiring the many different coloured stones and pebbles washed up on the shore.

Left: Penguin themed rubbish bin in Penguin

Driving onwards we spotted a giant monolith rising from the ocean. This was the 143 metre high volcanic plug called The Nut, the story is that it was so named as it is a hard nut to crack and we were going to climb it, well some of us were, the rest of us took the easy way and opted to get to the top by chair lift. I was one of the chair lift riders and thoroughly enjoyed the ride. As I passed over the incredibly steep path to the top I had no regrets. The view from the top was spectacular, 360 degrees of sea and land.  I joined one of our group and we took the 2 kilometre walk around the flat top and down into a bush clad valley.  Hundreds of tiny birds accompanied us flitting from tree to tree.  It was delightful. After sailing back down in the chair lift I spoke to some who had walked up the path, they said it was so steep they had to cling to the railing all the way for fear of sliding down the hill. 

Great view from the chair lift

Panorama from The Nut
Below:  Our happy crew with The Nut in the background

After a short drive around the delightful small fishing port of Stanley we headed off to our accommodation  at Smithton, where we had our first group dinner. This had been a fabulous day and a great start to our trip.

Right: Stanley at the foot of The Nut

The Joy of Hiking

 I have always been a keen walker.  I love nothing better than getting out in the fresh air and exercising either with friends or on my own.  It has been a favourite pastime my whole life.  For the last 30 years I have walked around 5 kilometres twice a week with a good friend.  We have enjoyed solving the problems of the world, if only!, catching up on news and gossip while maintaining our fitness and keeping healthy.  When I travel overseas and visit new cities I have been known to walk for several hours a day taking in the sights and attractions. One day  I walked  all over London (25,000 steps) stopping for only short coffee breaks. And a few years ago I did a three day hike with friends around Bank's Peninsula on the South Island of New Zealand and another time climbed to the top of Mount Taranaki with the same friends. However, I have never really got into serious regular hiking.  It wasn't until a friend of mine suggested I join Auckland Global Trekkers, the hiking group that he leads, that I started to do some proper hikes and I'm loving it.

Mt Taranaki.  It was a hard slog but we got to the top.

Initially I felt a bit intimidated by the high level of fitness of most in the group since it has been a good  few years since I did those larger treks, but I needn't have worried. I've managed to keep up with others on the hikes I've done and because each has a difficulty rating I have chosen ones that I think best suit my ability.  The great thing is that I have been to places I had always wanted to go but didn't want to go to alone.  I wrote about the magnificent Putaruru Blue Springs hike in a previous post (find it in my search box) and a couple of weeks ago we went to Motutapu Island which I see daily from my suburb but had never visited. It's been so much fun to finally get to both these places with a great group of companions to share the experience with. 

The group hikes every Sunday in  both Auckland and other places around the North Island much further afield.  They also take overseas trips during the middle of the year which are primarily for hiking but also for sightseeing, dining and enjoyable companionship. This is a really well organised group. The founder and leader, Christopher Grant, does an amazing job of planning each hike with an assistant who plans the mid week hikes.  I am in awe of the time and care Chris takes in this.  It is no small task to come up with weekly hikes and to plan and co-ordinate the overseas trips. Health and safety is always a priority  and Chris has a willing band of helpers who carry walkie talkies and both lead and follow the group. Day hikes can consist of up to 50 hikers, the midweek hikes have much smaller numbers, people from all walks of life come along so there is plenty of interesting conversation to be had.  Every hike ends with a purely optional social gathering at a pub or bar, making for an excellent feeling of camaraderie amongst fellow hikers. 

So far I have done only three of the full day hikes and none of the overseas trips but I have done quite a few of the shorter midweek hikes around my city of Auckland.  They have been a delight, taking routes across the city, through parks, by rivers and bush and traversing places that despite living in the city all my life I have never been before. The beauty of these short hikes, approx 3 hours long, are that they start at 5.15pm so can be joined after work and are a great way to exercise and unwind before heading home. 

Auckland Global Trekkers ready to hike the Putaruru Blue Springs

We are always open to, and warmly welcome, new members.  Even if you are just visiting Auckland come along and get to see interesting and beautiful parts of the country you would be unlikely to see otherwise while enjoying the company of friendly locals. You can find Auckland Global Trekkers on Heylo.com see if there is a hike you'd like to come on and join us.