The Mayan Ruins of Copan, Honduras

Pyramid tomb of Rulers

Close to the border of Guatemala lies the small Honduran town of Copan and we were there to visit the nearby ruins of a Mayan city dating back as far as the 4th century. Although the valley of Copan has been populated for at least four thousand years the Mayan dynastic civilisation there is recorded as beginning in the year 426 AD and running until 822 AD when it gradually declined.  

The decline was largely due to a brutal defeat by the army of a neighbouring state which captured and beheaded the last dynastic ruler of Copan, however other factors included overcrowding, drought, depleted crops and continuing military conflicts. Most of the residents moved out into the surrounding valleys to continue a life of farming.

 Copan Ruins is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and provides an amazing insight into a long gone culture.

A stone altar decorated with images of Mayan rulers

Scarlet Macaw
( Photo by Thomas Bauer)

Entry to the ruins was along a very pretty forested walk where the bright red flashes of Honduras' national bird, the Scarlet Macaw, lit up the foliage. This was my first time visiting a Mayan site so I was keen to learn as much as I could.  We were led by a knowledgeable and articulate guide who explained the heirarchical structure of Mayan society and explained the intricate details in many of the altars and stelae (upright stone slabs depicting the rulers of Copan). Scholars, historians and anthropologists have been able to piece together much of the social construct of the Mayan society, painstakingly deciphering heiroglyphics and the many ornate carvings which are still in remarkable condition after 1200 years of weather and neglect.  In all there were 16 dynastic rulers of Copan, the 17th was in line but by then the society had collapsed so he never made it.  There is a poignant stelae which was meant to hold his depiction but was left uncarved.

Our guide gave excellent explanations of who and what the carvings represented

We spent three hours walking through the 54 acre site looking at the tombs of rulers, the carvings, the impressive heiroglyphic staircase and even a ball court where some sort of sport was played. I found it all very interesting and was impressed with how the site is being cared for and maintained but the heat of the day was blistering and by the end of the tour we were lurching from tree to tree for shade.  It was time for a respite.

No, I didn't drive it!

Back in the village we piled into small tuk tuks and went on a somewhat hair raising trip at full speed over potholed and gravelly roads to the San Lucas Hacienda.  I was hanging on for dear life! There we had cool drinks and lunch under shady trees while overlooking the lush valley and river below.

  

Our hotel was at the top of a very steep hill so every time we walked down to the delightful village of Copan we had a stiff hike back up again.  As we were walking up the hill in the late afternoon we heard a band practising drumming so we went to investigate. It was a school group led by a very enthusiastic teacher.  We were welcomed in and It was fun and entertaining to watch them. The next evening as we were leaving dinner in town we came across the reason for their practise.  Their school was celebrating an anniversary and the band, dressed very smartly in band uniforms, was performing.  We stood and watched them and other performances, enjoying the feeling of being part of the local crowd.

I can't end this post without mentioning the lovely San Rafael Cafe near the town square.  We went there twice and spent a very pleasant time getting to know each other and talking about travel. My group's various adventures were inspiring!

NOTE: I am using photos taken by my fellow travellers in some of these posts with their permission.

Antigua, The Prettiest Town in Guatemala

 I arrived at Guatemala City airport tired and jaded after approx 28 hours of travel however that wasn't enough to dull my excitement and the anticipation of traveling to five countries of Central America on an Intrepid Tours trip.

Guatemala city was an eye opener.  At 5am the traffic was already gridlocked, my driver telling me gridlock starts as early as 4.30am and some people spend up to 5 hours a day stuck in traffic. Imagine that? The buses, lit up with flashing lights and decorations making them look for all the world like mobile Christmas trees, made a cheerful sight against the rather drab city scape.

But I wasn't there to spend time in Guatemala City, I was heading 25 miles out of town to the UNESCO World Heritage city, and former capital, Antigua. My tour wasn't to start for a couple of days so I had plenty of time to explore this lovely city on my own.

Antigua

Located in the mountains of Guatemala and surrounded by three volcanoes Antigua was founded by the Spanish in 1543 so has many fine examples of buildings of Spanish Baroque design.  It is also peppered with ruins from severe earthquakes from the 18th century, which caused the capital to be moved to Guatemala City. It is widely recognised as one of the most beautiful small cities of Central America. The streets are cobble stoned, lined with colourful casas and laid out in a grid pattern making it very easy to find your way around. I couldn't wait to explore.

Santa Catalina Arch, the famous Antigua landmark

Heading off on my walk I came to the most famous symbol of Antigua, the Santa Catalina Arch which was built as a covered walkway for cloistered nuns to give them privacy from prying eyes.  Beyond the arch the 12,000ft volcano, Vulcan Awa, towers above the city.  The buttercup yellow of the arch is duplicated on the facade of the beautiful church of La Merced.  The pretty white detailing on the exterior a unique feature.

The pretty church of La Merced

Next I came to the former Jesuit monastery of Compania de Jesus. Badly damaged by earthquakes and now restored as an art gallery, events centre and conference hall it is really beautiful and in my opinion a must see. I visited the art gallery and lingered for a while in the cloisters and garden enjoying the tranquility.

The Compania de Jesus

The day was moving on so I returned to my hotel, Posadita Casa Maria Jose, to check in and then found one of the many lovely cafes nearby for lunch and coffee. Despite all that I still wanted to see I just had to rest as I was exhausted and grateful to have the next day to continue exploring the city.

My Hotel, Casa Maria Jose

My breakfast at Fernando's Kaffee ( highly recommended)

After a delicious breakfast in the pretty courtyard at Fernando's Kaffee the following morning I visited the ruins of the convent of Santa Clara.  Although there are many ruins dotted around the city this is said to be the best one to visit.  There is a modest entry fee but it is well worth it.  Despite suffering damage in earthquakes of 1717 and 1773 there is still plenty to see.  The shell of the chapel is almost complete and you can walk among the damaged cloisters and galleries. There is also a peaceful garden complete with working fountain to sit, relax and meditate in.

The ruins of Santa Clara

For people watching you can't go past the vibrant and colourful Central Plaza, a hive of activity with hawkers, traders, tourists and people simply enjoying time relaxing on benches near the fountain. Unlike other places I have visited the hawkers and traders were not pushy in fact I found all the people I met in Antigua to be friendly and polite.

  Bucket on her head, both arms full and a toddler asleep on her back.

On one side of the square are the ruins of the ornate San Jose Cathedral, its facade unspoilt. It can be visited but was closed when I was there. On another side is the arcaded City Hall Palace where the city's administration offices are housed.  I visited the Real (Royal) Palace (1743) on a third side of the square which now houses the National Museum of Art enjoying the art and artifacts on display and the lovely view across Central Plaza.

Later in the day I met my fellow travellers  and guide who would be my companions for the next 17 days as we continued on our Intrepid journey. They were an excellent group of 7 - 6 women, 1 man plus our Guatemalan guide. I could see fun times ahead. We enjoyed a meal together at a nearby restaurant and went to bed early for a 6am start the next day.

At 2am we had an authentic Antigua experience. An earthquake shook our hotel violently, a pretty scary experience as the heavy rafters above my bed creaked and moaned. Our guide told us later that these earthquakes are a regular occurrence  in Antigua. All part of the adventure  I guess.

Bruny Island, Tasmania - A Relaxing, laid back delight

 I really loved Bruny Island.  Just a short 20 minute by sea from the bottom of Tasmania, it is a small island off the big island. The ferry trip is scenic and pleasant and the moment you arrive on Bruny Island you get those laid back, relaxing island vibes.  It reminded me of arriving on Waiheke Island in Auckland, one of my favourite places in the world.

Our first stop on the island was at Truganini Lookout, named to honour a famous aboriginal woman who was a prominent leader of the Palawa tribe of the island.  There are 297 steps from the road to the lookout so it's not for the faint hearted but well worth the effort if your lungs and heart can take it.  The views are stunning giving a panoramic view of both sides of the narrow neck of land.

There's an awful lot of stairs to the lookout

One of the charming things about islands that is not quite so common on the mainland, and never seen in cities,  is the good old honesty box.  On Bruny we stopped at 3 shabby disused fridges by the side of the road.  Inside them was the most delicious freshly baked bread so, of course, we bought some and shared it around our mini bus as we travelled on. 

Note the coin box for purchases between two of the fridges

Next, to my great delight, we went to the Bruny Island lighthouse.  Frequent readers of this blog will know I have a real love of lighthouses.  It was a long steep climb up  but definitely worth it for the spectacular views in all directions.  The disused keeper's cottage below is now a small museum so I took the time to look at the history of the lighthouse on display there.  I really enjoyed this stop and my wander around the grounds surrounding the cottage.

Below: A view from the lighthouse

After a very tasty and generous seafood chowder for lunch at the Bruny Hotel we visited the tiny Bligh Museum at Adventure Bay. This is a private museum built from 26,000 convict made bricks. Inside is a rare collection of paintings, photos and documents related to the landings of explorers, William Bligh (of Bounty fame), James Cook and Matthew Flinders.  This was a short stop for us so we gave the museum a 'once over lightly'.  I'm sure with time to spare it would be absorbing. The museum is set in a lovely garden, opposite a beautiful beach.  A very pleasant place to stop.

The rest of our afternoon was spent visiting the Bruny Island Cheese company for cheese tastings and wine and at the Get Shucked (bit of Aussie humour there) oyster farm to devour the freshest of fresh oysters. 

Late afternoon we returned to mainland Tasmania by ferry. It's a good sign when you are reluctant to leave a place and I was reluctant to leave Bruny Island. This had been a fantastic day combining so many of the things I enjoy.   It is only 76 kms or 47 miles from Hobart so would make an ideal day trip for visitors to the city, I recommend it.

Anzac Day in Tasmania - Commemorating a special day for both Australia and New Zealand

 Anzac Day is a very important day for Australians and New Zealanders, probably one of the most important days in our calendar.  ANZAC stands for Australian and New Zealand Army Corps and is a day of remembrance for the soldiers of both countries lost in war. It is a solemn day starting with either dawn or morning ceremonies in most towns of New Zealand and Australia.  It is also a day where citizens of both countries feel united and patriotic, coming together as brothers and sisters to remember those who sacrificed their lives for their homelands. I attend an ANZAC ceremony every year with my family in New Zealand.

Most of our tour group were either New Zealanders or Australians and we were very keen to commemorate Anzac Day somehow, despite being far from home  in a remote part of Australia. We were even discussing ways to hold our own ceremony.  As luck would have it the Hotel Lufra, at Eaglehawk Neck where we were spending the night was hosting an Anzac dawn ceremony the next morning.  Excellent, problem solved.

The flag flying in commemoration ( note: most of the people were behind me)

At 6.30am about 60 people gathered on the hotel lawn, some wearing military medals.  The ceremony was simple and very moving. An ex military man gave a short speech, there was a minute's silence for personal reflection, the Australian flag was raised up the flag pole and the Last Post was played as the dawning sky turned the sea a soft pink.  Then, as is also traditional, everyone proceeded to breakfast and I did spot a few hardy souls enjoying early liquid refreshments while sharing memories of lost relatives and the special camaraderie of their past military sevice.

For me and my fellow New Zealanders this was a very special celebration of Anzac Day. It was such a good feeling to feel so close to, and in tune with, our nearest neighbours in Australia.

Cradle Mountain, the Jewel in Tasmania's Crown

 Every time I mentioned I was going to Tasmania people asked "Are you going to Cradle Mountain?"  It was clear it's one of the state's most treasured locations so all of my tour group were looking forward to going there. You can't  drive right into Cradle Mountain National Park, you must board a shuttle bus which takes you right in. It is a scenic alpine trip but what really made it for us was the bus driver, a true blue Aussie who kept up a very amusing, joke filled commentary all the way.

We left the bus at Dove Lake but unfortunately the mountain was cloaked in thick fog making it impossible to get even a glimpse of it so we took a short walk beside the lake to the boat house.  It was really beautiful, quite atmospheric in the fog, and with pretty reflections on the glass like water.

After a short break, we set off for a very long walk across the alpine terrain.  For quite a while it was difficult, clambering over rocks and stones and through muddy patches but eventually we came to a board walk which made it a lot easier, apart from the fact that we had to avoid the prolific wombat droppings across the path.  Nevertheless we were delighted to see wombats and echidnas just living their lives in the wild.

Wombat

Echidna

This is a great area for hikers there are many different trails

At the top of a slope is an exact replica of the cottage of Gustav and  Kate Weindorfer, lodge keepers and botanists, who lived in and loved the area in the early 1900s and worked hard to achieve Protected Status for the region.  We sat and rested inside the cottage before making our way back to the shuttle bus. 

Inside the Weindorfer's cottage

Before heading to our hotel we visited a tasmanian devil and quoll sanctuary.   Tasmania devils are ugly little things with a horrible screech, hence their name, but the quolls are cute enough and we were pleased to have seen so much of Australia's interesting and diverse wild life in one day.

Tasmanian Devil

Quoll

We spent the night at the lovely Cradle Mountain Hotel, enjoying drinks and conversation beside a roaring fire before dinner. We hadn't seen the mountain but we had still had an enjoyable and satisfying day. And then our wonderful guide came up with an idea, she moved our itinerary around a bit so we could try and see the mountain again the next day. In the morning we took two short walks, one to Pencil Pine Falls, very peaceful, before heading right into the park and what a joy it was to see the mountain clearly with just a bit of fog swirling around.  

Cradle Mountain

Very impressive.  We were delighted, contented and happy to continue on our travels which took us past a spectacular mountain range and into the pretty little town of Sheffield.

Sheffield is known as the mural town for its colourful murals everywhere and for a well known identity who sits outside a cafe every day with his tame, pet llama named Pedro. 

A man and his llama.  Note part of the mural depicting them on the right. 

After a good long coffee break we went to an arboretum where we strolled among vibrantly coloured autumn leafed trees and saw platypus making brief appearances above the water, too fast to photograph.

Our stop for the night was back at the Grand Chancellor Hotel, Launceston and in the morning we were heading south.

Tasmania - Absolute Serenity in the Tasmanian Wilderness

 If you are looking for a complete get away in a beautiful and serene location you can't go past Corinna Wilderness Village, Tasmania. Originally a mining village, with a rich history, the lodge is located on the edge of the beautiful Pieman River and nestled into the ancient Tarkine rain forest. Accommodation is in spacious cottages spread over a large area. The cottages have no internet, no television and no phone, it is bliss, I could happily spend several days there just chilling.

My Cottage at Corinna Wilderness Village

Pieman River in the Tarkine rain forest

 We were to have just one night  but we made the most of it. Once settled into our cottages we went for a walk along the river's edge, very pretty, the only sounds, bird song, leaves rustling in the trees and the gentle slapping of waves along the pathway. Our guide pointed out various plants and the famous Huon Pines, some of them over a thousand years old. The trees on the opposite side of the river glowed golden in the setting sun. It was good to be in such a peaceful place so far from the troubles of the world.

Dinner was a convivial affair for our group in the the lodge restaurant, The Tarkine Hotel, and then back in my cottage I lit the gas fire, read my book and relished the silence.

Next morning was a simple breakfast, a short walk, and then we were off again, catching the barge to cross the Pieman River, a brief but scenic trip.

Driving onto the barge, Pieman River

An hour later found us in the mining town of Zeehan. It appeared to have been very grand once judging by some of the buildings in the main street but now looked faded and it was cold and filled with smoke from a nearby controlled burn off. Nevertheless I still enjoyed this insight into a small Tasmanian mining town and it was a pleasure to see the excitement of one of our group visiting the town where her mother had lived many years ago.

Grand buildings, main street Zeehan

Mining equipment and smoke, Zeehan

There was time for a quick coffee from cheerful women in a coffee cart before driving towards Cable Mountain, passing a large zinc and tin mine in the small town of Rosebery on the way. At the modern, spacious, Cradle Mountain Visitors centre we paused to eat the packed lunch provided by the Corinna Wilderness Village. We were planning to spend the afternoon exploring this magnificent area.  

Cradle Mountain is worthy of its status as one of the most treasured and iconic places in Tasmania.  It deserves its own blog post so will be the subject of my next one.

Tasmania, Australia, Day 2, Hiking and Spectacular Scenery

This was a day to do some short hikes and sample some of Tasmania's spectacular scenery. In perfect weather we set off on our first hike through pristine native bush to the Trowatta Arch. This unique formation is the result of the collapse of an ancient limestone cave. The hike is enjoyable, through lush ferns, trees and many different funghi. Our very knowledgeable guide, Stacey, stopped now and then to provide us with interesting information on the flora and fauna within the bush. The track eventually took us down a number of stairs to what I can only say is an other worldly view. The rock arch frames a sink hole filled with water and lime green duck weed. It really is quite magical. To everyone's excitement a small owl was perched on a ledge eyeing us with suspicion. This hike reminded me very much of the West Coast of the South Island of  New Zealand. It only takes 30 minutes and is a must do if you are in the area.

Our next short hike led us to Lake Chisholm  and was a little more challenging as we negotiated slippery tree roots all the way. I was pleased I had brought my hiking pole. Interestingly, although not far from our first hike the trees along this walk were quite different.  The lake, surrounded by bush, was small, serene and a pleasant place to stop for a while and enjoy the tranquillity broken only by the sound of the occasional fish jumping. 

Our third walk was along a non slip pathway through magnificent temperate rain forest, under giant myrtle beech trees and  beside the tannin stained Julius River. I'm always happy beside a stream, river or waterfall so really enjoyed this walk. Our drive from the river was up through dense bush where we stopped at a lookout to view the river far down in the valley below.

Right: Julius River in the valley

We were having a fantastic day hiking and viewing all different types of bush and scenery however after an hour long drive we arrived at what was for me the highlight of the day, The Edge of The World, at Gardiners Point. This wild, remote and stunning landscape bears a plaque stating that the view out to sea is the longest uninterrupted stretch of ocean on the planet, the next land being Argentina 15,000ks away. As the area is subject to the high winds of the infamous Roaring Forties the coast is littered with huge amounts of driftwood, absolute mountains of it. It is wild and wonderful. Staring out to sea and imagining the waves tossing trees like match sticks is a humbling experience.  

Argentina is out there somewhere

Fortunately for us there was only a light wind and conditions were pleasant and then the sun broke through some clouds and turned a patch of sea into burnished gold.  It was glorious and a fitting way to end what had been a marvellous day's sight seeing.