We Arrive in Nicaragua

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 No sleep and a 4am departure time made us a pretty exhausted group of travellers heading to the Nicaragua border.  We dozed on the bus as much as we could during the four hour journey, only waking for a breakfast stop along the way. The border exit for El Salvador was in a small office near the boat harbour at the city of La Union. We were all confused by the documents we had to fill out which were in Spanish only but with the help of our guide, Nestor, we managed to get the job done.

Documents completed and then a walk down the jetty to the boat which would take us across the gulf of Fonesca to Nicaragua.  The crossing took one and a half hours and, as luck would have it, especially after last night's storm, the sea was like glass. Our small boat skimmed across the water at high speed while we enjoyed the views of various islands along the way. 

 It was quite a strange entry into a new country.  Our boat pulled into a deserted bay at Potosi, anchoring off shore, so we had to wade in, no trouble to we Intrepid travellers, though. 

Wading ashore on arrival in Nicaragua (Photo by Thomas Bauer)

Fortunately a porter appeared to carry our luggage.  We were in awe of his strength as he carried three suitcases at a time. Apart from the porter there was nobody around.  Eventually a customs and immigration official sauntered out of a nearby office to complete our documentation at a small table by the beach. So now we were in Nicaragua, the fourth country of our trip.

After loading up a new bus we were on our way to the city of Leon, stopping briefly for lunch at a roadside buffet.  Hotel Real, was very pleasant and on a street within easy walking distance of the city centre and square.  Once settled in Nestor took us on an orientation walk.  I love the way all the places we have been to so far have vibrant city squares where people congregate just to chat and catch up. They sure are proud of their revolutionaries in Nicaragua, large portraits of them line the attractive main square and the street leading into it. 

Pictures of Nicaragua's revolutionaries lining the street

The next morning we went on a walking tour of the city, advertised as free but requiring a $10US tip!  It was well worth it, though.  Our articulate English speaking guide told us of the revolutionary history of Nicaragua pointed out many things of interest and took us to the university where pretty much all of the country's writers, poets and historians had studied. Next it was on to the food market where for only $2US each we got to try a wide variety of traditional food and drink.  This was great and the food was nothing like the fried, greasy food we have encountered a lot along the way. As we were leaving a cafe where we had had coffee with others on the tour the skies opened to torrential rain flooding the gutters but it was a brief downpour.

Amanda Schofield made this fabulous collage of her photos
of our trip to the Leon Market 

Later that afteroon several of us went to the cathedral to climb up very narrow stairs to the roof for views over the city and great views they were too. A number of volcanoes could be seen in the distance.

On the roof of the  World Heritage listed Leon Cathedral. 
(Photo by Thomas Bauer)

On the roof of the Cathedral. Volcano in the background
Words say "God save our Church" Nicaragua has many earthquakes.

As we were walking to a restaurant for dinner Marina and I stopped to chat to a couple who were sitting in rocking chairs on their doorstep right on the street, watching people passing by. They were very friendly and keen to talk. We were invited in to have a look at their home.  It was absolutely magnificent, like a palace, furnished with beautifully carved Spanish furniture. 

Who would have thought that this would exist behind an ordinary door right on the footpath. A Catholic family, they had huge religious paintings and statues decorating the walls and ledges. The woman proudly told us she never cooks, their live-in maid does the cooking.  Such a lovely lady, well turned out, friendly and delighted to show us her beautiful home.  Meeting locals is one of my favourite things about travel and this was a highlight of our time in Leon.

San Salvador and the Pacific Coast

 Our driver dropped us off at Captain Gerardo Barrios Plaza, the main square of San Salvador,  and gave us three hours to explore the central city.  The square is bounded by an enormous new library, funded by the Chinese, (they are everywhere), the Cathedral of San Salvador and the Presidential Palace.   Our first stop was at the library where we were amused by the fact that bags are searched for pens, apparently a banned item in the library.  Very strange but they must have their reasons.  The library is impressive with a vast central atrium and many areas for community groups to gather.  There was a preschool area, a childrens reading area, meeting places for a wide range of groups, computer areas etc.  We particularly enjoyed the views of the city from the high library balconies.

Library of San Salvador

Across the square we visited the Cathedral, busy with worshippers in the late morning, and then descended into the crypt to view the tomb of Saint Oscar Romero assassinated during the El Salvador civil war.  It is a sombre place.  Near the tomb are a series of photos taken of his body in the aftermath of his murder.  They are graphic and confronting and a reminder of the futility and horrors of war. 

Tomb of St Oscar Romero, martyred for supporting the poor.

Out in the daylight and a walk through the very pretty Presidential Gardens beside the palace, followed by a quick stop at a modern air conditioned coffee shop for refreshments and we were on the road again heading to the Pacific Coast. 

The Presidential Garden and Palace

(Photo by Alina)

 It was only an hour from the city along a very impressive highway. We were going to spend the night at Surf City.  The name was the result of rebranding by a government tourism campaign in order to attract tourists. Originally it was part of the town of La Libertad. El Salvador is proud of this surf beach but, hey, I come from New Zealand, beaches are hard to impress me when our own are sublime.  Fair to say I wasn't particularly impressed by Surf City, although there were good breakers and a few surfers were enjoying them, the black sand beach was narrow and stoney and the town had that slightly scruffy look that often seems to come with surfing/back packing beaches. Nevertheless it was good to look at the Pacific Ocean 11,500 kms from where I look at it daily from my home in New Zealand.

Surf City beach ( Photo by Thomas Bauer)

We were to get up at 4am in order to reach the small ferry that would take us to Nicaragua so it was an early night for us.  The best laid plans etc.....Firstly my air conditioning was turned to freezing so I got up to adjust it then there was an incredible thunder storm which seemed to last for hours.  I'd never heard anything like it, lightening, thunder and torrential rain, sleep was impossible.  No sooner had the thunder and lightening stopped than cars stuck in the flooded streets started tooting their horns.  I gave up and got up at 3am.  Safe to say I had no sleep.  Part of the fun? of travel I guess. We loaded our bus in drizzle and at 4am  started the long drive to the border crossing and small ferry that would take us to Nicaragua.

El Salvador - We Meet a Guerrilla and Climb a Mountain

 About 30 kilometres from the town of Sutchitoto is the Ecological Park of Cinquera, close to the small town of Cinquera.  We were heading there to meet with the Chief Park Ranger and former guerrilla from the El  Salvador civil war, Rafael Hernandez, and then hike through the bush to the look out tower at the top of the mountain

Former guerrilla, Rafael Hernandez
on the left

Before we started the hike Rafael gave us a talk on the reasons for the civil war, and the methods the guerrillas used to avoid detection. It is not surprising there was a revolution and when you learn how things were for the general population it is clear it was highly justified.  Up until that time the whole of El Salvador was owned by just 14 families who used all the other citizens as slave labour.  Farmers were unable to buy land and had to work for the land owners six days a week for a salary of 11US cents  a day. 

Guide, Renee, at the remnants of a guerrilla camp
explaining how they hid from government forces

Memorial to the guerrillas
on the mountain

As a teenager Rafael supported the citizens uprising and joined a protest march ending up being severely beaten by a government guard.  This spurred him on to become a guerrilla and join the fight.  He went to Cuba to train and returned to live in guerrilla camps on the mountain we were about to hike. Unfortunately the United States sided with the El Salvador government and helped train their soldiers, also providing enormous financial and military support. The US feared the spread of communism but that was not what the people of El Salvador were after, they simply wanted justice and freedom from poverty. The news the rest of the world received about the war was always from the US's point of view. There were several massacres of innocent people who the government deemed to be hiding guerrillas, in one day over 1000 were killed. After 12 years of relentless fighting both sides were exhausted and a peace accord was signed in Mexico in 1992.  Life eventually improved for the ordinary citizens and many who had left during the war returned to buy land and start farming.                                                                                                                                                      The mountain we were  climbing had been the hideout for many of the guerrillas. It was tough going up steep paths and stairs in 34 degree heat and humidity.  Fortunately another guide, Renee, came with us to show us the remnants of the guerrillas camps, their trenchs and the very interesting way they learnt to cook over fires without smoke being detected, a skill they learnt from the Vietnamese. It was fascinating. When we stopped at various sites for his explanations it gave us time to catch our breath.

View of Lake Suchitlan from the look out tower Photo by Thomas Bauer

At the top of the mountain there is a look out tower which we climbed to get a stunning view over the forest and Lake Suchitlan. A group of three armed soldiers arrived not far behind us.  They were very cheerful and friendly and happily posed for photos with us.

It was much easier to descend the mountain and a couple from our group took the opportunity to swim at the base of the waterfall to cool off.

On our way back to Sutchitoto we stopped at the village of Cinquera where a festival was in progress.  We strolled around the square and inspected the remnants of the civil war on display, part of a downed US helicopter and two missiles which were used as the church bells when the actual bell was removed after the church was bombed. There were large murals of Monsignor Romero, now Saint Oscar Romero, who was a champion of the poor and believed their fight against the government was justified.  In a shocking act he was assassinated by government forces in a packed church while saying Mass

The church in Cinquera. Saint Monsignor Romero on the left,
 Padre Marcial Serrano on the right
Both priests assassinated by govt forces for their support of the poor.

It had been quite a morning!  We had learnt a lot, exercised a lot and sweltered in the heat. Time for a swim at the hotel before heading out to an indigo dyeing demonstration.   The indigo dyeing workshop we visited is run by a women's collective which fits in with Intrepid Tours philosophy of trips not only benefiting the traveller but also the communities they visit.  Indigo is extremely expensive and has lost out to artificial dyes over the years but this collective is continuing the ancient craft. Profits from their sales go back into helping the community. I particularly love the deep rich blue it produces and was fascinated by the whole process of dyeing which was demonstrated for us. I couldn't help myself and bought one of their indigo dyed tops.  A perfect souvenir.

Our day was completed with another wander through Suchitoto's lovely town square, drinks at a pleasantly cool bar and dinner at an outdoor restaurant overlooking the lake as the day turned to dusk. It had been a full and interesting day.  I was going to be sorry to leave Suchitoto.

El Salvador and the Lovely Town of Suchitoto

 

A warm welcome
Photo: Amanda Schofield

I loved El Salvador right from the start. Maybe it was the warm welcome we received at their shiny new border crossing which included free coffee and snacks, or perhaps it was the myriad of interesting activities we enjoyed or maybe it was simply the people who were friendly, cheerful and inclusive. Thomas, one of my fellow travellers, was amused by me because I had said I enjoyed everywhere and everything we had done to that point so I had to assure him that, yes, I really did love El Salvador.

The town square

El Salvador had suffered from a civil war for 12 years ending in 1992 with a peace accord. However the United States then deported thousands of El Salvadorian gang members back to the country who quickly took control  due to weak governments and immense poverty. The country was effectively ruled by gangs, drug dealers and other criminals who made life hell  for the residents keeping them in a constant state of fear and anxiety.  Murders were prolific, on one weekend in 2019 there were 87 gang related murders, and extortion and stand over tactics were common place. When current President Nayib Bukele was elected he vowed to clean up the gangs which he has done mainly by incacerating any gang members in an enormous jail.  As of now there are over 100,000 people in jail in El Salvador.  Human rights activists are not happy about this but the people of the country are delighted and Bukele is greatly admired for his stance throughout central and south America.  Life now is safe and harmonious and the President has an approval rating of 88%.  Although, as with everywhere in the world, there is still crime it has now dropped to historic levels. It certainly felt a very safe place to be.

We checked into our hotel at Suchitoto and had a refreshing swim in the pool before walking down to the town square.  It's a really lovely place overlooked by a huge Catholic Church, Iglesia Santa Lucia, which at the time was packed with worshippers.  Families and children were enjoying time together in the square, just a really lovely atmosphere. The town is considered  to be the cultural  capital of El Salvador with cobble stone streets and bursting with colonial charm.

Left and right Cooking class at Grandma's House

Photos by our guide:

Guillermo de Leon 

Later in the day we went to a restaurant named, Casa de la Abuela, or Grandma's House, where we were to have a cooking lesson making the staple dish of Central America, Pupusa. This is a type of flatbread which you stuff with various fillings and then fry.  Firstly we had a talk from the owner telling us  the history of the building and that it really was his grandma's house, next we watched a demonstration on how to make pupusa and then we all made some for our dinner which we enjoyed eating together.  It was a great activity.

With the happy bride.  Such a special night!
Photo from Marina Weidner

Back at the hotel a few of us decided to have some drinks out on the terrace.  There was a wedding reception taking place in the restaurant on the lower level.  Everyone at the reception was dancing to the music so we did too.  After a while a man from the wedding party came up and invited us to join the wedding down stairs.  We were warmly welcomed and joined in dancing with the wedding guests to a mix of Spanish and English songs. Brilliant fun.  The last song of the night was Abba's Dancing Queen.  The bride stood in the middle of the floor and everyone, including us, danced around her.  It was a privilege to share in this special occasion.

The Mayan Ruins of Copan, Honduras

Pyramid tomb of Rulers

Close to the border of Guatemala lies the small Honduran town of Copan and we were there to visit the nearby ruins of a Mayan city dating back as far as the 4th century. Although the valley of Copan has been populated for at least four thousand years the Mayan dynastic civilisation there is recorded as beginning in the year 426 AD and running until 822 AD when it gradually declined.  

The decline was largely due to a brutal defeat by the army of a neighbouring state which captured and beheaded the last dynastic ruler of Copan, however other factors included overcrowding, drought, depleted crops and continuing military conflicts. Most of the residents moved out into the surrounding valleys to continue a life of farming.

 Copan Ruins is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and provides an amazing insight into a long gone culture.

A stone altar decorated with images of Mayan rulers

Scarlet Macaw
( Photo by Thomas Bauer)

Entry to the ruins was along a very pretty forested walk where the bright red flashes of Honduras' national bird, the Scarlet Macaw, lit up the foliage. This was my first time visiting a Mayan site so I was keen to learn as much as I could.  We were led by a knowledgeable and articulate guide who explained the heirarchical structure of Mayan society and explained the intricate details in many of the altars and stelae (upright stone slabs depicting the rulers of Copan). Scholars, historians and anthropologists have been able to piece together much of the social construct of the Mayan society, painstakingly deciphering heiroglyphics and the many ornate carvings which are still in remarkable condition after 1200 years of weather and neglect.  In all there were 16 dynastic rulers of Copan, the 17th was in line but by then the society had collapsed so he never made it.  There is a poignant stelae which was meant to hold his depiction but was left uncarved.

Our guide gave excellent explanations of who and what the carvings represented

We spent three hours walking through the 54 acre site looking at the tombs of rulers, the carvings, the impressive heiroglyphic staircase and even a ball court where some sort of sport was played. I found it all very interesting and was impressed with how the site is being cared for and maintained but the heat of the day was blistering and by the end of the tour we were lurching from tree to tree for shade.  It was time for a respite.

No, I didn't drive it!

Back in the village we piled into small tuk tuks and went on a somewhat hair raising trip at full speed over potholed and gravelly roads to the San Lucas Hacienda.  I was hanging on for dear life! There we had cool drinks and lunch under shady trees while overlooking the lush valley and river below.

  

Our hotel was at the top of a very steep hill so every time we walked down to the delightful village of Copan we had a stiff hike back up again.  As we were walking up the hill in the late afternoon we heard a band practising drumming so we went to investigate. It was a school group led by a very enthusiastic teacher.  We were welcomed in and It was fun and entertaining to watch them. The next evening as we were leaving dinner in town we came across the reason for their practise.  Their school was celebrating an anniversary and the band, dressed very smartly in band uniforms, was performing.  We stood and watched them and other performances, enjoying the feeling of being part of the local crowd.

I can't end this post without mentioning the lovely San Rafael Cafe near the town square.  We went there twice and spent a very pleasant time getting to know each other and talking about travel. My group's various adventures were inspiring!

NOTE: I am using photos taken by my fellow travellers in some of these posts with their permission.

Antigua, The Prettiest Town in Guatemala

 I arrived at Guatemala City airport tired and jaded after approx 28 hours of travel however that wasn't enough to dull my excitement and the anticipation of traveling to five countries of Central America on an Intrepid Tours trip.

Guatemala city was an eye opener.  At 5am the traffic was already gridlocked, my driver telling me gridlock starts as early as 4.30am and some people spend up to 5 hours a day stuck in traffic. Imagine that? The buses, lit up with flashing lights and decorations making them look for all the world like mobile Christmas trees, made a cheerful sight against the rather drab city scape.

But I wasn't there to spend time in Guatemala City, I was heading 25 miles out of town to the UNESCO World Heritage city, and former capital, Antigua. My tour wasn't to start for a couple of days so I had plenty of time to explore this lovely city on my own.

Antigua

Located in the mountains of Guatemala and surrounded by three volcanoes Antigua was founded by the Spanish in 1543 so has many fine examples of buildings of Spanish Baroque design.  It is also peppered with ruins from severe earthquakes from the 18th century, which caused the capital to be moved to Guatemala City. It is widely recognised as one of the most beautiful small cities of Central America. The streets are cobble stoned, lined with colourful casas and laid out in a grid pattern making it very easy to find your way around. I couldn't wait to explore.

Santa Catalina Arch, the famous Antigua landmark

Heading off on my walk I came to the most famous symbol of Antigua, the Santa Catalina Arch which was built as a covered walkway for cloistered nuns to give them privacy from prying eyes.  Beyond the arch the 12,000ft volcano, Vulcan Awa, towers above the city.  The buttercup yellow of the arch is duplicated on the facade of the beautiful church of La Merced.  The pretty white detailing on the exterior a unique feature.

The pretty church of La Merced

Next I came to the former Jesuit monastery of Compania de Jesus. Badly damaged by earthquakes and now restored as an art gallery, events centre and conference hall it is really beautiful and in my opinion a must see. I visited the art gallery and lingered for a while in the cloisters and garden enjoying the tranquility.

The Compania de Jesus

The day was moving on so I returned to my hotel, Posadita Casa Maria Jose, to check in and then found one of the many lovely cafes nearby for lunch and coffee. Despite all that I still wanted to see I just had to rest as I was exhausted and grateful to have the next day to continue exploring the city.

My Hotel, Casa Maria Jose

My breakfast at Fernando's Kaffee ( highly recommended)

After a delicious breakfast in the pretty courtyard at Fernando's Kaffee the following morning I visited the ruins of the convent of Santa Clara.  Although there are many ruins dotted around the city this is said to be the best one to visit.  There is a modest entry fee but it is well worth it.  Despite suffering damage in earthquakes of 1717 and 1773 there is still plenty to see.  The shell of the chapel is almost complete and you can walk among the damaged cloisters and galleries. There is also a peaceful garden complete with working fountain to sit, relax and meditate in.

The ruins of Santa Clara

For people watching you can't go past the vibrant and colourful Central Plaza, a hive of activity with hawkers, traders, tourists and people simply enjoying time relaxing on benches near the fountain. Unlike other places I have visited the hawkers and traders were not pushy in fact I found all the people I met in Antigua to be friendly and polite.

  Bucket on her head, both arms full and a toddler asleep on her back.

On one side of the square are the ruins of the ornate San Jose Cathedral, its facade unspoilt. It can be visited but was closed when I was there. On another side is the arcaded City Hall Palace where the city's administration offices are housed.  I visited the Real (Royal) Palace (1743) on a third side of the square which now houses the National Museum of Art enjoying the art and artifacts on display and the lovely view across Central Plaza.

Later in the day I met my fellow travellers  and guide who would be my companions for the next 17 days as we continued on our Intrepid journey. They were an excellent group of 7 - 6 women, 1 man plus our Guatemalan guide. I could see fun times ahead. We enjoyed a meal together at a nearby restaurant and went to bed early for a 6am start the next day.

At 2am we had an authentic Antigua experience. An earthquake shook our hotel violently, a pretty scary experience as the heavy rafters above my bed creaked and moaned. Our guide told us later that these earthquakes are a regular occurrence  in Antigua. All part of the adventure  I guess.

Bruny Island, Tasmania - A Relaxing, laid back delight

 I really loved Bruny Island.  Just a short 20 minute by sea from the bottom of Tasmania, it is a small island off the big island. The ferry trip is scenic and pleasant and the moment you arrive on Bruny Island you get those laid back, relaxing island vibes.  It reminded me of arriving on Waiheke Island in Auckland, one of my favourite places in the world.

Our first stop on the island was at Truganini Lookout, named to honour a famous aboriginal woman who was a prominent leader of the Palawa tribe of the island.  There are 297 steps from the road to the lookout so it's not for the faint hearted but well worth the effort if your lungs and heart can take it.  The views are stunning giving a panoramic view of both sides of the narrow neck of land.

There's an awful lot of stairs to the lookout

One of the charming things about islands that is not quite so common on the mainland, and never seen in cities,  is the good old honesty box.  On Bruny we stopped at 3 shabby disused fridges by the side of the road.  Inside them was the most delicious freshly baked bread so, of course, we bought some and shared it around our mini bus as we travelled on. 

Note the coin box for purchases between two of the fridges

Next, to my great delight, we went to the Bruny Island lighthouse.  Frequent readers of this blog will know I have a real love of lighthouses.  It was a long steep climb up  but definitely worth it for the spectacular views in all directions.  The disused keeper's cottage below is now a small museum so I took the time to look at the history of the lighthouse on display there.  I really enjoyed this stop and my wander around the grounds surrounding the cottage.

Below: A view from the lighthouse

After a very tasty and generous seafood chowder for lunch at the Bruny Hotel we visited the tiny Bligh Museum at Adventure Bay. This is a private museum built from 26,000 convict made bricks. Inside is a rare collection of paintings, photos and documents related to the landings of explorers, William Bligh (of Bounty fame), James Cook and Matthew Flinders.  This was a short stop for us so we gave the museum a 'once over lightly'.  I'm sure with time to spare it would be absorbing. The museum is set in a lovely garden, opposite a beautiful beach.  A very pleasant place to stop.

The rest of our afternoon was spent visiting the Bruny Island Cheese company for cheese tastings and wine and at the Get Shucked (bit of Aussie humour there) oyster farm to devour the freshest of fresh oysters. 

Late afternoon we returned to mainland Tasmania by ferry. It's a good sign when you are reluctant to leave a place and I was reluctant to leave Bruny Island. This had been a fantastic day combining so many of the things I enjoy.   It is only 76 kms or 47 miles from Hobart so would make an ideal day trip for visitors to the city, I recommend it.