One of the World's Greatest Train Journeys - The Tranz Alpine, New Zealand

 

I love train journeys, they are  absolutely my favourite way to travel.  As far back as I can remember I had wanted to take a trip on New Zealand's Tranz Alpine which travels from the east coast of New Zealand's South Island to the west coast.  A couple of months ago I finally got the opportunity. So many people had told me what an amazing experience this was and I was hoping I wouldn't be disappointed or be expecting too much....I wasn't in either case. It is always great to discover that all the fulsome praise heaped on something turns out to be accurate. This trip is definitely deserving of all the accolades, if you visit the South Island I would say it is a must do. 

A misty day on the journey to Greymouth

Early in the morning I boarded the train in Christchurch and settled into my very comfortable seat with its wide panoramic windows, looking forward excitedly to the journey ahead. It was drizzling as we left the city to cross the flat farmlands of the Canterbury plains and I crossed my fingers that the rain would ease before we reached the alps. Just beyond the small town of Springfield we could see the tall peaks of the Southern Alps ahead and I  wondered how the train would ever get through.  But get through it did by following the tracks along the pure, aqua, alpine water of the Waimakariri River. 

The Waimakariri River

The slow climb up to the Craigieburn Plains took us through 15 short tunnels and across 4 dramatic viaducts, the most spectacular being the 72 metre high Staircase Viaduct.  By then the drizzle had abated and there was just an eerie mist swirling around the peaks. The views of the snow capped mountains and vast empty valleys were stunning. 

 It was freezing out on the open air observation carriage but I was so enamored of the sights I didn't mind and spent plenty of time out there enjoying and photographing the views. 

Then back to my seat for a nice warming cup of coffee before a scheduled stop at Arthur's Pass where we got off the train to stand in the softly fluttering snow flakes and fill our lungs with the purest of air. 

After Arthur's Pass the train started its descent to the west coast through the 8.5 km Otira Tunnel, the second longest tunnel in the world when it was built in 1923. 

Once we popped out of the tunnel we were in an entirely different landscape.  The west coast of the South Island is renowned for its rain and that is reflected in the lush, green, dripping and primeval scenery. We traveled between high hills, along river valleys and skirted the exquisite Lake Brunner before pulling into Greymouth Railway Station four and a half hours after leaving Christchurch. 

The tiny workers village of Otira, miles from anywhere, nestled under the mountains

Lake Brunner

The lush, verdant, dripping landscape coming into Greymouth

I was elated, it had been all I'd hoped for from the plains, to mountains, rivers to lakes, ancient and unspoiled landscapes.  Imagine my delight when I made the return journey a few days later to find perfect weather and the snow capped mountains bathed in a pink glow from the setting sun.  It was absolutely magical.

The return journey was even more spectacular

Want to go to Antarctica Without going to Antarctica? Here's how.

 A mere 5 minutes walk from Christchurch International Airport is  the International Antarctic Centre.  Built on the site of the International Antarctic exploration base this fantastic facility transports visitors, via immersive experiences, to this cold, wild, majestic continent.  Here you can learn about life in Antarctica, the work scientists do there and the ongoing conservation efforts to protect its fragile animals and environment. While very few of us will ever get to Antarctica this centre has to be the next best thing.

Here are the immersive experiences offered:

THE STORM DOME

 The Ice cave during the storm

For an authentic Antarctic experience go into the Storm Dome where you will experience an indoor polar storm. This is about as close you can get to Antarctica without actually going there and I think it is a must. Once inside the snowy dome the temperature will drop to minus 8 degrees celsius then a wind machine blowing a violent gale will drop the temperature to minus 18 degrees celsius. There is an ice cave you can shelter in but I preferred to feel the full force of the storm because, why not? But it sure is freezing!  Thankfully it only lasts for a few minutes but it gives you a good indication of what the conditions can be like in the Antarctic and what the scientists living there have to deal with.  

Inside the Storm Dome

HAGGLUND FIELD TRIP

This is an adrenalin rush, a 15 minute ride on a dual cab, tracked, all terrain, amphibious vehicle as used in Antarctica. On a specially designed course, adjoining the centre, you will be driven through water, along the side of steep slopes, over crevasses and along bumpy tracks. Marvel at what this incredible vehicle can do and how valuable it must be to the scientists of Antarctica. It is a thrilling, and at times, heart stopping ride.

Take the Hagglund for a thrilling ride

Part of the Hagglund course.  At the top of the slope is a crevasse the vehicle crosses with ease. It was too bumpy for me to get good photos

4D THEATRE

After donning 3D glasses you will find yourself completely immersed in  Antarctica in this  film. Not only is the cinematography stunning but you will feel mist and water blown in your face, you will have your seat shaken and jolted and feel things grabbing at your legs. You can really get the feel for the place from this experience.

LITTLE BLUE PENGUINS (KORORA)

The Centre provides a sanctuary for disabled and injured little blue penguins. In a carefully designed habitat the penguins can swim, rest, eat and play free from predators.  These are New Zealand's smallest penguins at only about 43cm tall and are incredibly cute.  Visitors can view them at any time but the best times are when they are being fed, although I have to say they didn't seem overly interested in food the day I was there. Nevertheless they were diving and swimming and generally waddling about while their keeper provided an interesting talk about the efforts going into protecting these penguins and those in the wild.

STATIC DISPLAYS

With all the excitement of the immersive experiences don't forget the informative static displays, including a reconstruction of Scott's hut. I found them very educational and learnt a lot. There is also a film of a year in Antarctica playing on loop.

HUSKY ZONE

Visitors are welcome to pet and cuddle huskies but unfortunately, on the day I was there neither were the huskies.  They are not always there so if that is your particular interest it would be best to contact the centre before a visit.

This was my first visit to the International Antarctic Centre and I loved it. I learnt a lot, enjoyed the immersive experiences and recommend it as a "must see" if you are in Christchurch.

NOTE:  I waited without luck for the shuttle bus advertised as leaving from Christchurch Museum.  I imagine that it is on hold due to lack of international visitors right now. You can catch the Airport bus instead.

iceberg.co.nz  phone 0800 iceberg Open 365 days a year from 9am to 5pm