One of the World's Greatest Train Journeys - The Tranz Alpine, New Zealand

 

I love train journeys, they are  absolutely my favourite way to travel.  As far back as I can remember I had wanted to take a trip on New Zealand's Tranz Alpine which travels from the east coast of New Zealand's South Island to the west coast.  A couple of months ago I finally got the opportunity. So many people had told me what an amazing experience this was and I was hoping I wouldn't be disappointed or be expecting too much....I wasn't in either case. It is always great to discover that all the fulsome praise heaped on something turns out to be accurate. This trip is definitely deserving of all the accolades, if you visit the South Island I would say it is a must do. 

A misty day on the journey to Greymouth

Early in the morning I boarded the train in Christchurch and settled into my very comfortable seat with its wide panoramic windows, looking forward excitedly to the journey ahead. It was drizzling as we left the city to cross the flat farmlands of the Canterbury plains and I crossed my fingers that the rain would ease before we reached the alps. Just beyond the small town of Springfield we could see the tall peaks of the Southern Alps ahead and I  wondered how the train would ever get through.  But get through it did by following the tracks along the pure, aqua, alpine water of the Waimakariri River. 

The Waimakariri River

The slow climb up to the Craigieburn Plains took us through 15 short tunnels and across 4 dramatic viaducts, the most spectacular being the 72 metre high Staircase Viaduct.  By then the drizzle had abated and there was just an eerie mist swirling around the peaks. The views of the snow capped mountains and vast empty valleys were stunning. 

 It was freezing out on the open air observation carriage but I was so enamored of the sights I didn't mind and spent plenty of time out there enjoying and photographing the views. 

Then back to my seat for a nice warming cup of coffee before a scheduled stop at Arthur's Pass where we got off the train to stand in the softly fluttering snow flakes and fill our lungs with the purest of air. 

After Arthur's Pass the train started its descent to the west coast through the 8.5 km Otira Tunnel, the second longest tunnel in the world when it was built in 1923. 

Once we popped out of the tunnel we were in an entirely different landscape.  The west coast of the South Island is renowned for its rain and that is reflected in the lush, green, dripping and primeval scenery. We traveled between high hills, along river valleys and skirted the exquisite Lake Brunner before pulling into Greymouth Railway Station four and a half hours after leaving Christchurch. 

The tiny workers village of Otira, miles from anywhere, nestled under the mountains

Lake Brunner

The lush, verdant, dripping landscape coming into Greymouth

I was elated, it had been all I'd hoped for from the plains, to mountains, rivers to lakes, ancient and unspoiled landscapes.  Imagine my delight when I made the return journey a few days later to find perfect weather and the snow capped mountains bathed in a pink glow from the setting sun.  It was absolutely magical.

The return journey was even more spectacular

Want to go to Antarctica Without going to Antarctica? Here's how.

 A mere 5 minutes walk from Christchurch International Airport is  the International Antarctic Centre.  Built on the site of the International Antarctic exploration base this fantastic facility transports visitors, via immersive experiences, to this cold, wild, majestic continent.  Here you can learn about life in Antarctica, the work scientists do there and the ongoing conservation efforts to protect its fragile animals and environment. While very few of us will ever get to Antarctica this centre has to be the next best thing.

Here are the immersive experiences offered:

THE STORM DOME

 The Ice cave during the storm

For an authentic Antarctic experience go into the Storm Dome where you will experience an indoor polar storm. This is about as close you can get to Antarctica without actually going there and I think it is a must. Once inside the snowy dome the temperature will drop to minus 8 degrees celsius then a wind machine blowing a violent gale will drop the temperature to minus 18 degrees celsius. There is an ice cave you can shelter in but I preferred to feel the full force of the storm because, why not? But it sure is freezing!  Thankfully it only lasts for a few minutes but it gives you a good indication of what the conditions can be like in the Antarctic and what the scientists living there have to deal with.  

Inside the Storm Dome

HAGGLUND FIELD TRIP

This is an adrenalin rush, a 15 minute ride on a dual cab, tracked, all terrain, amphibious vehicle as used in Antarctica. On a specially designed course, adjoining the centre, you will be driven through water, along the side of steep slopes, over crevasses and along bumpy tracks. Marvel at what this incredible vehicle can do and how valuable it must be to the scientists of Antarctica. It is a thrilling, and at times, heart stopping ride.

Take the Hagglund for a thrilling ride

Part of the Hagglund course.  At the top of the slope is a crevasse the vehicle crosses with ease. It was too bumpy for me to get good photos

4D THEATRE

After donning 3D glasses you will find yourself completely immersed in  Antarctica in this  film. Not only is the cinematography stunning but you will feel mist and water blown in your face, you will have your seat shaken and jolted and feel things grabbing at your legs. You can really get the feel for the place from this experience.

LITTLE BLUE PENGUINS (KORORA)

The Centre provides a sanctuary for disabled and injured little blue penguins. In a carefully designed habitat the penguins can swim, rest, eat and play free from predators.  These are New Zealand's smallest penguins at only about 43cm tall and are incredibly cute.  Visitors can view them at any time but the best times are when they are being fed, although I have to say they didn't seem overly interested in food the day I was there. Nevertheless they were diving and swimming and generally waddling about while their keeper provided an interesting talk about the efforts going into protecting these penguins and those in the wild.

STATIC DISPLAYS

With all the excitement of the immersive experiences don't forget the informative static displays, including a reconstruction of Scott's hut. I found them very educational and learnt a lot. There is also a film of a year in Antarctica playing on loop.

HUSKY ZONE

Visitors are welcome to pet and cuddle huskies but unfortunately, on the day I was there neither were the huskies.  They are not always there so if that is your particular interest it would be best to contact the centre before a visit.

This was my first visit to the International Antarctic Centre and I loved it. I learnt a lot, enjoyed the immersive experiences and recommend it as a "must see" if you are in Christchurch.

NOTE:  I waited without luck for the shuttle bus advertised as leaving from Christchurch Museum.  I imagine that it is on hold due to lack of international visitors right now. You can catch the Airport bus instead.

iceberg.co.nz  phone 0800 iceberg Open 365 days a year from 9am to 5pm

 

Lyttelton, New Zealand - Did my memory serve me well?

 About half an hour from downtown Christchurch and through a Tunnel which burrows under the Port Hills is the port town of Lyttelton.   I carry vivid memories of the town from a visit 45 years ago. A couple of weeks ago I visited again. Well, goodness me, it is amazing how memories can become distorted over time.    In my memory the main street of shops sloped up sharply from the waterfront and the famous Time Ball was right in the heart of town.  It was a real eye opener to return and find my memories were actually quite wrong.  In fact the Time Ball is a fair distance from the main street and the shopping street runs in a level flat line across the sloping hillside.

Houses pepper the slopes of the Port Hills..... 

I was on a short trip to Christchurch so decided to take a bus trip out to Lyttleton for a look around.  Lyttleton is a quaint town boasting a population of just  over 3000.  Nestled in amongst the hills, overlooking the port, its houses pepper the steep slopes, the owners clearly swapping difficult access for spectacular views of the sublime harbour. First settled by the Maori in the 1300s and ancestral home for the South Island's largest tribe, the Ngai Tahu, its sheltered port made it an attractive landing place for whalers and settlers in the 1800s.  If you live in Christchurch it is a huge status symbol to be able to boast that you are descended from the migrants who arrived there on the first four ships in 1850.  

....and overlook the port and the beautiful harbour

Lyttelton grew up quickly to accommodate the new arrivals who mostly made their tortuous way over the hills to the new settlement in Christchurch.  Sadly a fire devastated the town in 1870  after which it was rebuilt in  fireproof stone only for many of the stone buildings to collapse in the major earthquakes of 2011. Work is continuing to replace some of the lovely old character buildings destroyed, and it is sad to see gaps where buildings once stood, but I still thoroughly enjoyed the  ambiance of this quiet, sleepy old town. It was a cold overcast day so I took the opportunity to enjoy a long conversation with the lovely woman at the information centre who told me a lot about the history of Lyttelton. Then I took a stroll around the heritage walk. 

Grubb Cottage (1851) Open to the public on Saturdays

Grubb Cottage (1851), in London Street,  the main street, survived the fire and is preserved as an example of an early settlers home. There are some attractive shops, cafes, bars and restaurants further along the street.  I was particularly captivated by the Book Shop which looks cosy and enticing and the old colonial frontages on some buildings. An excellent busker was playing his guitar and singing to no one, apart from me, the only person on the street, although I did spot quite a few people enjoying morning coffee in the cafes.

London Street blends the old with the new

An iconic feature of Lyttelton, the Time Ball was built in 1876 to aid seamen.  Everyday at 1pm a 100kg ball was dropped above the tower to aid the navigators in setting their chronometers.  The Time Ball tower was completely destroyed in the 2011 earthquakes but happily it has now been restored and is once again a much loved feature of the town although no longer in use as a shipping aid. It started to drizzle so I decided not to walk up the hill to the Time Ball although I could see it from a distance.

Lyttelton's iconic Time Ball Tower - rebuilt after the earthquake

I wandered Winchester Street, above the town, taking in the view from St Saviours at Holy Trinity church and stopping to admire  Teynham House (1851), listed as a house of high heritage significance, before heading down to the waterfront to catch the bus back to Christchurch.  What a contrast!  While the shopping area was quiet and sleepy the harbour and wharf was an absolute hive of activity.  Lyttelton is the major port of the South Island with ships coming and going, loading containers and logs for export and unloading containers  onto trucks which then travel  through the tunnel under the Port Hills delivering  imports to the rest of New Zealand.  I imagine that when work is done for the day the restaurants, bars and cafes on London St come alive with workers and seamen enjoying some leisure time.

Teynham House (1851)

The port of Lyttelton

I always enjoy picking and poking around somewhere new and Lyttelton was sort of new and no exception.  Like most places in New Zealand there are signs it is struggling post covid but, hopefully, it can come back from that.  It is amazing that my completely incorrect memories of the place are still firmly embedded in my mind, and probably always will be, even though I now have new, correct memories of Lyttelton. It is as if they are two different places that I will always remember. The mind really can play tricks on you.

Christchurch - Rising like a Phoenix from the Earthquake Rubble

 Last week, for the first time in eight years, I spent a few days in Christchurch.  Christchurch has been recovering from two major earthquakes, one in 2010 and one in 2011, and I was looking forward to seeing what progress had been made in the city's recovery. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised.

 (To read my previous posts about the earthquakes type in the search box:  Christchurch - A City With a Broken Heart but a Fighting Spirit  And  Christchurch's Cardboard Cathedral)  

Although the central city of Christchurch is compact, and easy to walk around,  I recommend starting a visit with a ride on the quaint old hop on - hop off trams which circle the city centre and provide a good commentary on the sights and history of the city.  

I have known Christchurch well through my life, having visited multiple times, and I still find it hard to get my head around the difference between the city I knew and the shiny new city which is now being built.  Vestiges of the old remain and it is fortunate that  some of the lovely old 'as English as England' buildings survived but so much is new and quite wonderful.  Given time I think this will be the stunning city that's already well on its way to being created.

Above: Some of the lovely old buildings were spared.
Below: The facade of this theatre was the only part saved. 
 A whole new theatre has been built behind it

The most spectacular new building is the Christchurch Convention Centre, opened in December 2021 it borders Cathedral Square, the very heart of Christchurch, and fronts the river Avon. The convention centre has an eye catching exterior and covers 28,000 square metres including an auditorium to seat 2000.  

The new Christchurch Convention Centre

Apart from the much loved and iconic Ballantynes department store, which escaped with minor damage, every other shop or mall in the main shopping street, Cashel Street, was either destroyed or had to be demolished.  I was amazed to find that a whole new street of glossy, modern shops has been built to replace the old.  The Crossing is a new multi storey mall and branching off Cashel Street are attractive covered walkways housing cafes and shops. Down towards the river is the Riverside Market, a very attractive foodhall/market where you can buy deli items or grab a quick meal. Although small in scale it reminded me of the Queen Victoria Market in Melbourne or the English Market in Cork. Around the corner on Oxford Terrace brand new restaurants have been built overlooking the river.  They are popular, colourful and very busy.  

Riverside Market

You can stroll a bit further along the river to your left and come to the Antigua Boat Sheds, earthquake survivors.  Here you can hire a punt with a punter for a gentle glide along the Avon River. Yes, as English as England indeed.

A short distance from Cathedral Square is New Regent Street which had just been restored and reopened when I visited Christchurch in 2014.  It was quiet and uncrowded then, now it is a buzzy, busy place with cafes, umbrellas, tables and chairs filling the centre of the street.

The pretty Art Deco New Regent Street

A small corner of the playground

The children of Christchurch have not been forgotten.  In 2015 the Margaret Mahy Playground was opened, named in honour of New Zealand's most famous children's author who lived near by.  The idea behind the playground was to bring joy and laughter back into the city and to give children feelings of confidence and hope.  It is large and by far the best playground I have seen in New Zealand and as a grandmother I have seen plenty!

Everywhere you look in central Christchurch there is work going on to rebuild or restore buildings.  The city has come a very long way but it still has a long way to go.  There are numerous empty sections where buildings once stood, and cars now park, and there are buildings either boarded up or held up by scaffolding or containers.  

Right: Boarded up and blocked for safety by containers

Cathedral Square still looks a mess, however work has started on restoring the cathedral to its former grandeur.  The cathedral has always been the centre point of the city but for years controversy raged on about whether it should be demolished and a new cathedral built in its place or whether it should be restored.  In the end restoration won out so the massive task has begun. Currently there is another controversy over the building of a new stadium. While discussions roll on costs keep escalating. Hopefully a resolution will come soon.

Work has begun on the Cathedral.  Restoration will take a few years.
The rose window is fake, printed on fabric. The rose window was destroyed in the quakes.

Not forgetting the tragedy of the lives lost in the earthquake there is a sombre, austere  memorial alongside the river.  I took some time to pause there and think about the victims who were simply going about their normal day when the earthquake struck. It could happen to any of us.  Life is short - we must enjoy it.

A small section of the memorial.  A long curved wall along the river's edge lists the names of those killed

My visit included a stroll through the glorious Botanic Gardens, and visits to both the Museum and the Art Gallery, both excellent.  The Art Gallery is housed in a building fronted entirely in glass.  Not one pane of glass was damaged in the earthquakes which destroyed all the buildings surrounding it.  It was used as the operations centre in the aftermath of the earthquake with no problems despite hundreds of after shocks. This says much for the high level of earthquake proofing used in its construction.

Christchurch Art Gallery

It is not often that a city can design itself almost from scratch and Christchurch is making the most of this opportunity. I kept thinking back to something I heard at the graduation I attended in Christchurch shortly after the earthquakes. "The best of things happen if you make the best of things that happen"

Well done, Christchurch, you are making the best of it and looking great. I look forward to my next visit.

#christchurchrecovery #christchurchearthquake 

Chelsea Heritage Park and High Tea at Sugar Cafe, Chelsea Bay - Auckland, New Zealand

 Nestled on the edge of Auckland's beautiful Waitemata Harbour is the Chelsea Sugar Works, a beloved and iconic landmark of the city.  Painted in a warm Tuscan pink the buildings stand out proudly amongst the surrounding bush.   Opened in 1884  it was built on a site perfect for it's needs due to sufficient flat land, access to fresh water from the adjoining Duck Creek, and a sheltered deep water anchorage on the shoreline, for tankers. 

By 1886 the sugar works was humming and more than half the population of the suburb of Birkenhead were workers who lived in cottages provided by the company.  The company also provided them with a church, a primary school and a store. Sadly all the early cottages are gone but the more solid brick houses, built for staff in 1908, remain and are under heritage protection. 

Heritage protected workers houses dating from 1908

The 36.7 hectares surrounding  the sugar works is now an historic reserve called the Chelsea Estate Heritage Park.  It is a beautiful and popular place to stroll along cool, green, bush tracks, past freshwater lakes  and beautifully groomed open spaces all the while catching stunning views of the Harbour Bridge and Auckland city. The bush contains many native species of trees including kauri, kowhai and pohutukawa where a wide variety of birds can be spotted. You may be lucky enough to catch sight of piwakawaka (fantail), a kereru (wood pigeon) or a tui but there are many other birds inhabiting the bush there as well.  On the ponds you will find gulls, terns, shags, kingfishers, mallards and pukeko amongst other birds.  Native fish live in the lakes although they will be hard to spot.

The actual sugar work precinct goes by the name Chelsea Bay and is still fully operational, processing and refining the raw sugar delivered by sea to its wharf. Guided tours of the factory can be booked (at the moment they are not operational due to covid), there is a cookery school on site, an interactive zone which is interesting and very popular with children, a playground and picnic area and a superb bakery and eatery offering a dazzling display of  cakes and savouries at very reasonable prices.  The views from the cafe are sensational.

View of down town Auckland and the harbour bridge from the cafe

Recently my son visited from the UK and I treated him and myself to high tea (known as afternoon tea in the UK) at the cafe. Oh my, it was something else. A three tiered cake stand plus groaning with cakes and savouries, all delicious served with a glass of champagne and a pot of tea.  I have to say it defeated us but the grandchildren were very happy to get our left overs later in the day.

I highly recommend a visit to the Chelsea Estate.  Take one or more of the walks around the estate and then reward yourself with a coffee and sweet treat in the cafe.  If it is a special occasion book a high tea.

Note:  The cafe is very popular and can be extremely busy on weekends although they do provide a coffee cart at weekends for take away coffee.

chelsea.co.nz 100 Colonial Rd, Chatswood, Auckland

Mary Quant - the Queen of Cool

 

Raincoat with her 
trademark
 front zip

When I was at secondary school, many moons ago, I took a course on design and the history of costume.  It was something I really enjoyed, so much so that I still have my project book today.  As part of the course we students were able to choose to study any dress designer we were particularly interested in.   I chose Mary Quant because at the time she was extremely hip, cool and I loved her original and "out there" styles. Unlike the more well known fashion designers or couturiers of the time, whose garments were expensive and well beyond the reach of most, Mary aimed her garments at the aspirational young working girl.  They were about twice the cost of garments sold at Marks and Spencer which made them attainable with a bit of hard saving. In 1966 Mary said "The whole point of fashion is to make fashionable clothes available to everyone"    

                                                                      

Left : A photo from my project

Right: And the real thing at the exhibition

In 1965 Skirt 4 guineas

Sweater 1 pound 15

Extract from my project

Mary Quant had studied art and was keen to wear fashionable clothes at prices she could afford.  At the time clothing was pretty conservative so Mary began designing her own highly original outfits.  In 1956, when she was just 21, she and her husband opened Bazaar, their shop in Chelsea, London.  It was the first "modern" shop for young people and became a roaring success.  Mary went from cutting clothes out on her bed and sewing them herself to employing a large staff in a workroom and eventually expanding to 1700 stores throughout the world. Mary's secret was that she spoke to the younger, trendy, fashionable woman who wanted to break loose from the austerity of dull post war attire.

 

Above left: Mary often used masculine features in her designs. She was playfully turning established norms on their heads.

Above right: Mary's take on both the school gym slip and flapper style.                           Beside it a party dress.

While I was researching Mary for my project there was a fashion show of her garments at Smith and Caughey's in Auckland. This iconic store was a stockist of Mary Quant and my grandmother, a lover of fashion, enjoyed nothing more than to attend a fashion show with me in tow. Perfect timing for me as I think this was the only show of Mary's garments ever held in New Zealand.

Left: Part of my report on the fashion show 

When I look at her garments now I don't see them as "out there" as they were back in the 60s and 70s.  We have now become used to the styles and trends she started and many, if not most, women's wear shops cater to the fashions loved by younger people but there is no doubt Mary was at the forefront of the youth fashion explosion.

Right: This suit was one of her most expensive items. In 1962 it cost 32 guineas, equal to $1400NZ today

Last weekend I went to the V and A (Victoria and Albert Museum) Mary Quant exhibition on loan to Auckland Art Gallery.    I was amazed at the number of garments on display together with accessories and even Mary Quant Daisy dolls. So many of her garments, although daring and different when she designed them, are clothes I would happily wear today and by today's standards are really quite conservative, although I would draw the line at wearing the mini skirt which she is credited with inventing.  Some trademarks of her designs were the unusual fabric combinations and the subtle colours.  She had a particular love of the colour ginger and used it extensively even calling one of her collections The Ginger Group.  I remember wearing ginger to be "in" although it really didn't suit me.  She also made the boring old raincoat a bright, fun and fashionable item and was a pioneer of bright, colourful sparkly tights.

I made all my clothes through my teenage years and 20s.  I loved this demure white organza dress by Mary (left) and copied it as closely as I could to wear for my engagement dinner.  I still remember that dress and how happy I felt wearing it on that special night even if I did make it myself!

A bright and stylish raincoat

I had included the 1970's pricings of her garments in my project. Jerseys ranging from One pound 15 shillings up, dresses from 5 guineas and suits from 20 guineas.  It doesn't sound much but when an office girl probably earned around 7 pounds a week it meant careful saving and balancing of the budget to get a highly prized Mary Quant garment.

I was so pleased to see this exhibition.   It was a fantastic trip down memory lane and even more thrilling to see garments I had used photos of in my project in the flesh so to speak.

#maryquant #aucklandartgallery #vanda