Tasmania, Australia, Day 2, Hiking and Spectacular Scenery

This was a day to do some short hikes and sample some of Tasmania's spectacular scenery. In perfect weather we set off on our first hike through pristine native bush to the Trowatta Arch. This unique formation is the result of the collapse of an ancient limestone cave. The hike is enjoyable, through lush ferns, trees and many different funghi. Our very knowledgeable guide, Stacey, stopped now and then to provide us with interesting information on the flora and fauna within the bush. The track eventually took us down a number of stairs to what I can only say is an other worldly view. The rock arch frames a sink hole filled with water and lime green duck weed. It really is quite magical. To everyone's excitement a small owl was perched on a ledge eyeing us with suspicion. This hike reminded me very much of the West Coast of the South Island of  New Zealand. It only takes 30 minutes and is a must do if you are in the area.

Our next short hike led us to Lake Chisholm  and was a little more challenging as we negotiated slippery tree roots all the way. I was pleased I had brought my hiking pole. Interestingly, although not far from our first hike the trees along this walk were quite different.  The lake, surrounded by bush, was small, serene and a pleasant place to stop for a while and enjoy the tranquillity broken only by the sound of the occasional fish jumping. 

Our third walk was along a non slip pathway through magnificent temperate rain forest, under giant myrtle beech trees and  beside the tannin stained Julius River. I'm always happy beside a stream, river or waterfall so really enjoyed this walk. Our drive from the river was up through dense bush where we stopped at a lookout to view the river far down in the valley below.

Right: Julius River in the valley

We were having a fantastic day hiking and viewing all different types of bush and scenery however after an hour long drive we arrived at what was for me the highlight of the day, The Edge of The World, at Gardiners Point. This wild, remote and stunning landscape bears a plaque stating that the view out to sea is the longest uninterrupted stretch of ocean on the planet, the next land being Argentina 15,000ks away. As the area is subject to the high winds of the infamous Roaring Forties the coast is littered with huge amounts of driftwood, absolute mountains of it. It is wild and wonderful. Staring out to sea and imagining the waves tossing trees like match sticks is a humbling experience.  

Argentina is out there somewhere

Fortunately for us there was only a light wind and conditions were pleasant and then the sun broke through some clouds and turned a patch of sea into burnished gold.  It was glorious and a fitting way to end what had been a marvellous day's sight seeing.

Tasmania, Australia - Launceston, Devonport, Penguin and The Nut

 A glorious autumn afternoon greeted me on my arrival at Launceston.  A bit weary after rising at 2.30am to fly firstly to Melbourne and then onto Launceston I checked into my hotel and set out on what I thought would be a gentle walk to perk myself up. The first thing I noticed about this town of around 90,000 was the number of lovely old houses and buildings lining the streets.  They really added a certain charm to the place. I wandered into City Park, bemused by the enclosure of well cared for macaque monkeys at the entrance, stopping for a while to enjoy their antics. They had been a gift from the city of Ikeda, Japan in 1981 to mark their sister city relationship with Launceston. The park  glowed golden in the low autumn sun with shafts of sunlight filtering through the large trees. 

 In the centre of the park is the most ornate drinking fountain I have ever seen. It was erected in 1897 to mark Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee.

 I left the park hoping to find a pleasant restaurant or bar on the edge of the river but instead took myself in the wrong direction and ended up in a light industrial area with an elevated railway track blocking any view.  Oh well, them's the breaks, as they say.  Having walked a fair distance by then I simply headed back to my hotel for dinner and a rest.

The next morning it was time to meet my Intrepid Tours group to set out on a 9 day tour titled The Best of Tasmania.  At 8am we gathered in the hotel lounge, a super group of really interesting and friendly people.  I could see this was going to be a fun trip.  Our guide, Stacey, arrived,  bubbly, very knowledgeable, capable and friendly and an amazing driver to boot. Packed and ready we headed off to our first stop at the pretty coastal town of Devonport.

Devonport ( pop 50,000) is a port town and the gateway to Tasmania for The Spirit of Tasmania ferry from the mainland of Australia. As I have written in previous blogs, I love light houses so was very happy that we made our first stop at the Mersey Bluff lighthouse.  It towers majestically over the ocean offering, as all light houses do, a safety beacon for passing ships.  Just down the hill from the light house is the Tiagarra Cultural Centre where we were to have a cleansing ceremony and learn about the culture of  the Palawa/ Pakana people, the indigenous Tasmanians of the North West region.

As we gathered around a fire pit, welcome since there was a freezing cold wind, we had our faces dabbed with customary markings in ochre by the cultural centre guides.  We were then given branches of eucalyptus leaves to put in the fire and smoke ourselves in what is a traditional cleansing ritual. From there we moved into the cultural centre for a very interesting tour led by guide, Erin. Erin was articulate and I learnt a lot about the life, art and customs of the Palawa/Pakana people.  I would highly recommend this tour.

 (Note: the ochre sets solid and is hard to remove, have wet wipes at the ready)

At the cleansing ceremony

Back on our bus and heading west along the northern coast our next stop was at the town of Penguin, which, as you would imagine, rejoiced in the theme of penguins with punny names on shops and pictures and statues of penguins scattered about.   It is another pretty coastal town where we stopped for lunch, most of our group heading to the Penguin Brewery for a meal and a local beer After lunch  I took a walk along the beach admiring the many different coloured stones and pebbles washed up on the shore.

Left: Penguin themed rubbish bin in Penguin

Driving onwards we spotted a giant monolith rising from the ocean. This was the 143 metre high volcanic plug called The Nut, the story is that it was so named as it is a hard nut to crack and we were going to climb it, well some of us were, the rest of us took the easy way and opted to get to the top by chair lift. I was one of the chair lift riders and thoroughly enjoyed the ride. As I passed over the incredibly steep path to the top I had no regrets. The view from the top was spectacular, 360 degrees of sea and land.  I joined one of our group and we took the 2 kilometre walk around the flat top and down into a bush clad valley.  Hundreds of tiny birds accompanied us flitting from tree to tree.  It was delightful. After sailing back down in the chair lift I spoke to some who had walked up the path, they said it was so steep they had to cling to the railing all the way for fear of sliding down the hill. 

Great view from the chair lift

Panorama from The Nut
Below:  Our happy crew with The Nut in the background

After a short drive around the delightful small fishing port of Stanley we headed off to our accommodation  at Smithton, where we had our first group dinner. This had been a fabulous day and a great start to our trip.

Right: Stanley at the foot of The Nut