Ode to Autumn

 I love living in a country where the seasons change, where long hot summers turn to mellow autumns and where cold, rainy winters turn to vibrant, colourful springs. It is always a pleasure to enjoy that first barbecue in summer or the first bowl of soup in winter, to see the flamboyant reds and yellows of maple leaves in autumn and the shy, peeping buds and lime green leaves of  trees in spring. Each change is a cause for celebration, however, of all the seasons I think autumn is my favourite.  In my home town of Auckland autumn often means still days where the sun glitters on a calm sea and the cooler weather makes it perfect for walking or playing sport. It is fun at the end of the day to draw the curtains, curl up with a good book and get cosy. Much as the thought of an endless summer on a tropical island appeals I know I would miss the anticipation and pleasure which each season brings.

Many poets have written about the joys of autumn.  I wish I had their eloquence! All I can offer are a few photos, so here they are, my Ode to Autumn.

My autumn garden

And I caught a leaf falling!

Auckland's Westhaven boat harbour on a glorious autumn day

Cyclamens flower in autumn

Tis the season for me to make jam and preserves

Ah!  That first bowl of hot soup for lunch

I know it is autumn when my cat, Molly, spends the day on my bed

And what could be better than a comfy chair, a warm rug, and a good book to read by lamp light?

Autumn, you are welcome. Please come again next year.

(all photos are my own)

A Delicious Nordic Rhubarb Pie Recipe

I find it too easy to get into a boring old rut with cooking, always making familiar, tried and true recipes, mainly because I feel confident they will turn out well but also because I'm a bit lazy. However, when I'm in the mood I like to experiment and try something new.  This weekend I was asked to a dinner party to farewell lucky friends who are off to live on their vineyard.  I offered to make the desert.  As luck would have it I am in the middle of a creative period so scanned my recipe books for inspiration.  My London based daughter in law had sent me a Nordic recipe book for Christmas, apparently all things Nordic are very fashionable in London right now, so that was my first "go to" for a new recipe. This one caught my eye because it bears  my name.  I'm pleased to say there were plenty of oohs and aahs around the table at the dinner party, everybody seemed to enjoy it as much as I did.  I now know this will become one of my favourites for special occasions (yes, I know it has a lot of sugar in it but it is a "now and then" desert) and here it is:

MIRIAM'S RHUBARB MERINGUE SHORTCAKE

Ingredients

100 grams softened, unsalted butter
65 grams caster sugar
2 eggs, separated plus one extra egg white
125 grams plain all purpose flour
1 teaspoon of baking powder
3 tablespoons of milk

Filling

3 to 4 stalks of rhubarb trimmed and cut into small pieces
1 and a quarter teaspoons ground cinnamon
85 grams of caster sugar
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
30 grams of slivered almonds

A loose bottomed 10 inch flan tin, greased. (I didn't grease mine and the flan came out no trouble)

Method

Preheat oven to 180C or Gas mark 4

Cream the butter and sugar together in a food processor until pale and creamy.  Add the egg yolks one at a time mixing well. In a separate bowl mix the flour and baking powder together, then add half the flour mixture into the butter mixture, blending well. Add half the milk, mix well and then add the second half of the flour mixture and the remaining milk and mix well. Press this mixture into the flan tin, evenly covering the bottom and sides.

Filling: mix the rhubarb, cinnamon and 2 teaspoons of the caster sugar together and spread evenly over the shortcake base.
Whisk the egg whites until they are firm and hold soft peaks then gradually add the rest of the sugar and beat until thick and glossy.  Stir in the vanilla extract and pile the meringue on top of the shortcake.  Don't smooth it out, keep it in little peaks.  Place in the oven.  After 10 minutes quickly sprinkle the almonds over the top without removing the flan from the oven and continue to cook for another 25 to 30 minutes.

I served this with a thick vanilla bean custard but you could also serve it with cream or ice cream.  It is delicious.  I am so pleased my name caught my eye!

This recipe is an adaption of the recipe in NORDIC BAKERY COOKBOOK by Miisa Mink.

I can't wait to try other recipes in the book now.

Karaka Bay, Auckland - an historic site right on my doorstep

 

 Excuse the first fuzzy frames - it gets better, I assure you!

       A short walk from my home is beautiful Karaka Bay and since today was a calm, sunny autumn day  I decided it would be perfect for a walk to one of my favourite places. 

There is a bookshop in Auckland called The Hard to Find Bookshop and their byline is "but worth the effort".  The same could be said for Karaka Bay.  Located at the end of  short, sloping, Peacock Street, the bay  is accessed by a long, steep, winding path.       ( NB: take everything with you,  you do not  want to run back to your car for forgotten items!) However, when you get there you will agree, it truly is worth the effort.

Karaka Bay is named after the karaka trees that used to grow there and it was once the site of a Maori Pa or village.  It was here that Governor Hobson, on behalf of the British Crown, signed the Treaty of Waitangi, in March 1840, together with the chiefs from 17 Maori tribes. The Treaty is considered to be the founding document of New Zealand as a nation and the signing  is commemorated on a plaque on the path leading to the bay.  In early 2015 a reenactment of the signing was held at the beach.  At the time I had  French and Japanese house guests so took them along to the ceremony to their great delight.

Above and below: Re-enactment of the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, Karaka Bay 2015

Nowadays the bay is home to writers, artists, architects and professional people.  The houses in the bay are a mix of old baches (holiday cabins), converted boat sheds and plush new architecturally designed homes.  It has a strong bohemian vibe and the residents are pretty proud of their independent spirit and occasional flouting of city rules, such as planting vegetable gardens and fruit trees on the grassy area above the beach and placing their own colourful furniture out there too.  

Vegetable gardens on public land

Colourful furniture for all to use

Bohemian letter boxes say "Individuals live here"

   Tibetan prayer flags fly from bamboo stakes and, at times, the residents  hold community beach parties complete with a  jazz band.  I have been told that when the city council objected to a resident having an outdoor shower the residents arranged to be there when the city inspector arrived. Confronted with a line of naked residents waiting for a shower, the inspector fled, or so the story goes. One resident owned a large pig as a pet which he allowed to free range.  Other residents became annoyed by the pig's deposits on the beach and declared  the pig had to go, which it did, but not before a children's book was written about it. The difficult access ensures the residents co-operate with each  so  will  collect each others mail and packages from the letterboxes up the track above the beach if they are returning from a trip out. 

A beach house in the city

Interesting garden decorations

Sometimes in summer I like to take a book and sit on the beach and read.  It is a peaceful, beautiful place, the only sounds, the sea lapping the beach and the occasional bird call.  Today I had the beach completely to myself. How lucky am I to live so close to this beach, less than 15 minutes from the city centre but seemingly hundreds of miles away?

Whitianga and The Mercury Bay Museum - Work trip, fun trip

Bean Rock Lighthouse, Auckland

What better way to spend a glorious autumn day than to travel from Auckland to Coromandel by ferry?  I work as a tour guide at the National Maritime Museum of New Zealand and  was off on a work trip with a group of colleagues.  We had been invited as guests of the Mercury Bay Museum in Whitianga on the Coromandel Peninsula. Skimming across a flat azure sea under clear sunny skies, past verdant islands and contented fisherman lolling about on their boats the two hour trip sped by in a flash.  At Coromandel we were met by a bus which ferried us over the high ranges to the beautiful township of Whitianga.  It had been many years since I had been there camping with my family and I am pleased to say that although it has grown somewhat the town still retains its quiet, laid back charm.

A pristine boat skims the pristine sea off Waiheke Island

From the top of the Coromandel Ranges looking back towards Coromandel township

There's no doubt about it, small towns sure know how to make visitors welcome.  The enthusiastic volunteers and trustees of the Museum greeted us with afternoon tea, wine and loads of good conversation. Housed in a former dairy factory, the museum is impressive and although it covers many aspects of New Zealand life there was more than enough maritime history and information to keep us engrossed. Over two days we were treated to lectures on coastal trading, Captain Cook and the wreck of The Buffalo, which occurred just off the town's long golden sand beach now named Buffalo Beach. The ship still lies off shore and can be seen from the air, at times, lying in its sandy grave. I found all the lectures absorbing and valuable, it's always satisfying to learn new things and increase your knowledge.

Mercury Bay Museum

Excellent exhibits and good conversation

Mural on the exterior of the museum

This visit exceeded my expectations.  Our hosts were warm, hospitable and fun to be with.  Their information and knowledge helped broaden ours.  We have invited them to join us at our museum and look forward to hosting them sometime soon.

Nature paints a beautiful picture in Whitianga

As I have mentioned before, I love getting up early in the morning and going for a walk, especially when on a holiday.  It was no exception in Whitianga. I wandered along the beach and all around the sleepy, early morning town.  Mist was swirling over the hills and the sun was just poking its head up behind them.  Fishing boats at anchor made perfect reflections in the dark mirror-like water.  Tiny colonial cottages with their curtains drawn sat in rose festooned gardens and the smell of coffee filtered out across the bay. I felt pangs of nostalgia remembering the happy times my husband and I  had shared here when our children were small.  Sadly, the camping ground we stayed at now houses luxury apartments.
Finally I found the lovely Harbour House Cafe on the waterfront  where I sipped coffee, ate breakfast and read the morning paper. I felt perfectly at peace with the world.

The Whitianga boat harbour

Picturesque colonial cottage right in the heart of town

Then, all too soon, it was back to Auckland by bus.  My visit to Whitianga has whetted my appetite to return, only next time it will be for longer as there is so much to see around the area that a short visit cannot do it justice.  Our visit this time was for a purpose and one that was fulfilled many times over.  A big thank you to the trustees and staff of Mercury Bay Museum.  You have a fine museum, a real credit to you.

Japan Day, Auckland - and an easy Japanese salad recipe

The supreme elegance of the Tea Ceremony

Sometimes it is way easier to go to something alone and  Japan Day in Auckland last weekend was one of those times.  Not because it wouldn't have been fun to share it with someone but because the crowds were huge and tight and it would've been hard to stay together.  I suspected it would be a bit of a squash but  as a Japanophile I had been hanging out for a Japan fix for a while so couldn't resist the urge to go.

Japan Day has grown bigger and more popular over the last few years and is one of the reasons I love living in New Zealand's biggest city.  I am a sucker for cultural festivals and with its multicultural  population Auckland now has its fair share.  Regular readers of this blog will know that I have a particular love for Japan and Japanese culture so on Japan Day I was in my happy place.

 Hinamatsuri dolls -set up as for  a religious festival

All things Japanese were on display, from ikebana, bonsai and calligraphy to kempo martial art, traditional dance and the strange, unique Japanese street fashions  of Lolita and Gothic Lolita.

Visitors could try their hand at calligraphy, play Japanese board games, dress up in a kimono or sample the potent Japanese beer (8% alcohol).

There was a stage for J-pop performances and another stage for traditional dance and song.  The tiny tots from Auckland's Japanese kindergarten were little scene stealers

Food stalls offered sushi, okonomiyaki (one of my favourite light meals) sashimi, teriyaki, green tea ice cream and a myriad of other taste delights.  I wandered around with a big smile on my face snapping photos here and there and pretending I was on holiday in Japan. The steady drizzle didn't dampen my spirits nor, anyone else's, it seemed.

Traditional dance

Bonsai

                                                                                                                       

My nephew, a black belt in Kempo

Pounding the rice for rice cakes

Lolita Japanese street fashion

And here, as promised, is the easy recipe:

JAPANESE PICKLED CUCUMBER

1 cucumber

3 tablespoons of rice vinegar

1 tablespoon of water

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon of salt

1/2 to 1 teaspoon of grated fresh ginger

toasted sesame seeds

Peel and half the cucumber lengthwise.  Scoop out the seeds and slice the cucumber thinly. Mix all other ingredients together except for the sesame seeds.  Pour over the cucumber, stir and leave to marinate for an hour or two before eating.  Sprinkle the sesame seeds over to serve.

This is a great side dish, condiment or palate cleanser.  It is also superb served in sandwiches with roast beef.   It takes about 5 minutes to prepare and will keep for a day or two in the fridge.

Guide to souvenir shopping - Do you really need another sarong?

We've all done it - been enraptured by the vibrant clothing at an exotic destination and bought the shirt/hat/sarong/skirt, whatever, thinking that this will be just the thing to wear for summer barbecues back home. Problem is, we get back from holiday and find it simply doesn't look right in our home setting so it ends up cluttering a drawer. At some stage it gets hauled out for a fancy dress party.
                                                                                             One of my mistakes

 Wrong colour, wrong size, never worn

I have traveled a lot over the years and have learnt from painful experience what are good and what are bad souvenirs.  Here are a few of my suggestions to make your souvenir shopping worthwhile.

1. Think carefully about whether the item will be useful or whether is it just a novelty.  If it is a novelty don't buy it.  Novelties are five minute wonders and end up in a drawer until eventually thrown away.

2. On that note: Don't buy key rings, shot glasses, hula skirts, sombreros, clogs, mini Eiffel towers or similar, or anything vulgar or funny-the jokes wear off pretty quickly.
           
3. If you want to buy something to remember the trip by try to choose just one good quality item, within your budget, rather than a lot of small gimmicky items
                                                                                                  
4. Don't leave your souvenir shopping until the airport.  You will be pushed for time, flustered and could make rash purchases.  Airports are homogenous and there is not much of a choice anyway. Buying friends and family chocolates says "I forgot about you until the airport and then I panicked"

5.  Ask yourself if it is a popular item at your holiday spot. For example is everyone wearing a batik shirt?  Don't be swayed, you will probably never wear it back home

6. Beware of touts.  Good quality shops don't need them

7. Don't buy books on places you visit.  Unless it is something you are really interested in take it from me you are unlikely to look at them again.  I am referring to the  colourful, and usually expensive, guide books to palaces, castles, cathedrals etc. Having said that, one of my favourite books, a memoir, The Lady and the Monk, by Pico Iyer, is a souvenir from Japan

8. Start a collection of something useful.  I collected one Christmas tree decoration from every country I visited  until my tree had enough decorations.  Every Christmas it is fun to unpack them  and remember where they were bought. I have also collected coffee mugs, usually in blue and white, from various places I have visited.

Some of the mugs in my collection these are from Italy, Turkey, Japan, England and Wales

HERE ARE SOME OF MY FAVOURITE SOUVENIRS:






A child's antique kimono bought in a small village in Japan

A wooden tobacco knife crafted by a whittler from Tennessee

Displayed here with a Celtic cross from Dublin, a Japanese painting and a New Zealand sculpture















Miniature pottery houses from both the Cinque Terre and Copenhagen

A white linen and lace tablecloth and napkins from China
A tiny pewter pepper mill from Turkey
A collection of scarves from many different places
My diaries - I write extensive diaries on my travels and enjoy re-reading then from time to time.  It is amazing what you forget,
Photographs

A few of my sarongs.

CDs of ethnic music - ethnic music is one of my interests 

.....and, yes, several sarongs.  Sarongs are useful and good gifts since they take up no room in your bag. I always pack one when I travel.  They can be used as beach wraps, table cloths, picnic mats, summer bed covers, even towels in an emergency.  It's just that you don't need too many of them!


Enjoy your holidays.  Don't spend time hunting for souvenirs and gifts, that's just wasting precious time when you could be doing other things. Send postcards if you want to remember folks back home.  It's a dying practice but I, for one, love to get postcards from exotic destinations.  Buy one good quality souvenir for yourself if you want and buy scarves, bookmarks (can't have too many, they always go missing!), sarongs, coffee mugs, place mats, linen for friends.  For male friends some duty free wine or spirits always goes down well.

HAPPY TRAVELS!

Swakopmund, Namibia

More tales from my African adventure of 2010:

The Oryx - the national animal of Namibia

We travel through spectacular scenery on the way to Swakopmund, spotting exotic animals along the way including the solitary and handsome oryx, the national animal of Namibia. We stop for photographs at The Tropic of Capricorn and pass through vast mountain ranges of striated rock.  Way out in the middle of nowhere in a lonely and desolate canyon a couple of German men hid out during the second world war to avoid internment by the British.  I have no idea how they survived in this arid and hostile landscape but survive they did and wrote of their experiences in a book called The Sheltering Desert, a fascinating account of endurance and self sufficiency. Until I arrived in Namibia I had no idea that it was so scenically stunning, so vast, so empty.

It was in this area the Germans hid out - wild and desolate

Thousands of flamingos at Walvis Bay

We stop at Walvis Bay to admire the large flamingo colony and the lavish homes along the foreshore before  a long, tedious trip through a flat golden desert, the wind spinning the sand  into whirls. At last we arrive in Swakopmund and our accommodation - a hotel with real beds and showers and...well, you get the picture!  We are delighted and all dive into the showers.  What bliss!

Endless straight roads through swirling sand

In the afternoon we are taken for a tour of the shanty town on the outskirts of the city.  Many of the houses are built from cardboard, scraps of iron, plastic and timber but the streets are all tidy and litter free. It is very humbling to see people live this way, however, the government is endeavoring to improve things by constructing small tidy houses on the edge of the shanty town. There is a very long waiting list for one.

The "Township" Swakopmund

We call in at the home of a woman from the Damara tribe.  She is dressed in the rather quaint costume Damara women have adopted, based on 19th century German dress, including a hat shaped like cow horns, in honour of the tribe's love of cattle. It is a cultural requirement that women of the tribe speak in a soft low voice, almost a whisper, so our guide repeats her answers to our questions. She takes us on a tour of her tiny but very neat house and then offers to dress some of us in Damara dress as a surprise for the rest of our group.

With a Damara tribes woman -  We dress in the tribal costume.  I'm far right

 Our next stop is at the home of the Damara chief, a tiny, gracious,wizened old lady of 85. She sits in her living room answering questions interpreted through her nephew, Beadle, while children and grand children saunter backwards and forwards through the house. Beadle is a large, beaming young man with an impressive head of plaits.  We are all transfixed by their unique clicking language.

Proud of his gift of a pencil

As we walk around the township we are greeted  warmly be everyone we pass while children run around us playing tag and rolling around like puppies.  We give them gifts of pencils.  They are so thrilled you would think it was a million dollars and we are quietly ashamed of the affluence of the West. At the local shanty bar we enjoy a refreshing drink and listen to some cool, funky African music as locals come and go. I enjoy watching a loose limbed young man dancing to the beat and could have stayed watching him for hours.  In a small thatched hut beside the bar we are served a traditional meal of cold maize porridge, beans, chicken, spinach and roast caterpillars, yes, roast caterpillars!  I tried them to be polite, but won't again! Finally some children put on a short but enthusiastic dance display for us in a narrow, dusty alleyway.  It has been a brilliant tour, so sobering, so informative, so humbling.  We overcome our feelings of intrusion once we are told that tourism is vital to the township's economy and highly valued by the residents.

There are some good examples of the Namibian Click language on Youtube.