Turkey - Bergama, Assos and Troy

The Red Basilica, Bergama

Since it was really only a lunch stop we didn't have much time to see Bergama but at least we
did get to see the huge red brick Basilica built by Hadrian in the 2nd century AD as a temple to the Egyptian god, Serapis.  It was later converted to a Byzantine church and today has a mosque within its walls. It was closed for restoration work when we visited, nevertheless we had a pretty good view of it through the security fence.



Bergama

Bergama is famous for its woollen carpets and several carpet shops had their rugs spread along the pavement for passers by to walk on. They don't mind  foot traffic on their rugs, saying that it "seasons" them.  The town was sleepy and we enjoyed being the only tourists around, strolling the perimeter of the Basilica, spotting a local tradesman's donkey and cart and a number of tortoises sunning themselves on rocks in the river.  For lunch we found a "locals" café where I had a huge kebab, stuffed to bursting with chicken and salad, and an ayram drink,  $1.75NZ all up, it was the bargain of the century.  One of our group spotted a fruit drink in the fridge and took a hefty swig only to realise it was a very strong vinegar.  The look on her face was priceless! 

Trader's donkey, Bergama

Iskele

A couple of hours later, and after turning on to a winding, bumpy and, at times, hair raising, cliffside road  we arrived at the
tiny beachside settlement of Iskele, our overnight stop.  Several hotels line the beachfront with wooden sun bathing platforms built right out over the water.  I was surprised at how dirty and littered the actual beach was.  It seems nobody bothers to clean it, since nobody goes on it, such a shame. Nevertheless, Iskele was a picturesque little place with small fishing boats tied up along the sea wall and a magnificent sunset to enjoy during our pre dinner drinks.  As the sun went down and the evening turned cool the hotel staff arrived with warm pashminas for us all, a much appreciated touch. Later we enjoyed a delicious traditional Turkish meal of mezze, sea bass followed by kumar pasha for desert.

Snuggly wrapped in pashminas and having our first taste of raki

Next morning there was time for a walk along the sea wall to bask in a golden sunrise before leaving to visit Assos,  on the top of the mountain, and the ruined temple to Athena.  Aristotle opened an academy in Assos and attracted a group of other philosophers to study there.  When the town was attacked by the Persians he fled to Macedonia. Today  a modern statue of Aristotle, minus a hand, takes pride of place at the entry to the village.  St Paul also visited Assos on his travels. The ruined temple to Athena  has 6 of the original 38 pillars standing and commands breath taking views across the Aegean Sea and out to the Greek island of Lesbos.  It was so peaceful there with nobody else around save a friendly, toothless, old man clutching a handful of herbs which he wanted to sell to us. 

The Greek island of Lesbos

At the Temple of Athena, Assos

Then it was onto Troy where we were met by our guide, Mustafa, an erudite and articulate fount of knowledge.  Mustafa told us that he had grown up in Troy, playing hide and seek among the ruins and building forts with the old rocks and stones lying around, something that would be forbidden today. Troy dates from the bronze age when it was established by the Hittites and was immortalised by Homer in The Iliad.

In the wooden horse at Troy

 Our first stop was to have our photo taken in the replica wooden horse.  It was a fun thing to do and, thankfully, the only touristy thing about Troy. Of course there is no evidence that there ever was a wooden horse but it's a good story.  Originally built in a valuably strategic position, on the coast, where it had complete control of the Dardenelles, Troy today is 5 kilometres from the sea due to silting up of the harbour. The city had 9 levels of settlement, the earliest 3,500 years ago.  The last king of Troy was Priam who had many wives and children,including 50 sons.  His naughtiest child was the famous Paris who abducted Helen, daughter of the king of Sparta, thus triggering the Trojan war. Many battles were fought over Troy and so the city was built with many ramparts and defences.


3,500 years old and still as strong as ever.  Wall at Troy

I was particularly intrigued by the curved corridor leading to the city gates designed to ensure there was not enough room to use a battering ram to knock the doors down. Coming from a country as young as New Zealand it is always fascinating to visit places hundreds, if not thousands of years old.  Troy didn't disappoint, there are still solid walls and ramparts dating back 3,500 years.


 Mustafa was an excellent guide, a respected scholar, author of several books on Turkish history and had the ability to bring Troy to life for us.  Later we had lunch at his family run restaurant, just down the road and were surprised to see him mucking in serving hot chips to hordes of hungry visitors.

 

My Beatles

To paraphrase their own song "It was 50 years ago this week the Beatles came to town to play"  Town being my home town, Auckland.  Today's morning paper carried articles about this momentous (to teenage girls anyway) occasion stirring up my own memories.  I know some of the girls I went to school with bunked off in order to go to the town hall to see the Beatles at their public appearance but I had never bunked school and was too much of a scaredy cat  to start.  The daring girls came back the next day, heroes happy to take their punishment, bringing with them the thrill of Beatlemania to ripple through the school.

I'll never forget the first time I heard the Beatles.  We had a large room in our house, we called the playroom, nowadays it would be called a rumpus or family room. It had a large table and was where I did, or was supposed to do, my homework.  Because it was well away from the rest of the house I could sneakily turn the radio on and listen to my favourite music without my parents noticing...for a while, anyway.  This particular night the Beatles came on singing Love Me Do.  It was like a thunderbolt.  Their sound was so fresh, new, different and captivating that I was hooked immediately. Just as people remember where they were when they heard President Kennedy was shot I vividly remember that evening and that magical sound coming from my cheap and tinny radio.

  As it happened my parents had a close friend, a single woman in her 50s, who was a Journalist for Auckland's evening newspaper.  She reviewed shows that came to town and from time to time would take me along as her plus one.  In return I would answer her questions after the show to give her a young teenage perspective for her reviews.   I was fortunate to go with her to Roy Orbison, Frank Ifield and a few

Some of my old theatre programmes

other shows.  The day the Beatles were in town she rang my home.   I answered the phone and could hear the excitement in her voice. I just knew I was going to be asked to the Beatles.  Unfortunately my mother was out shopping and it was late in the day. Darry did not ask me, she wanted to have it okayed by my mother first and told me to get my mother to ring her urgently. My mother arrived home too late to contact her so I never got to the concert only to find out later that there was, indeed, a ticket for me.  I still look back sadly  on that lost opportunity.  Darry took me to other shows, and I was very grateful, but nothing could make up for missing the Beatles concert.

My beloved Grandmother who I adored, and still do despite the fact she died many years ago, would sometimes rescue me from life with six brothers and take me out for a girly day.  She loved the cinema and on occasion would take me and my cousin to two movies in a day, one in the morning, then  lunch at Smith and Caughey's, a grand old department store in Auckland, and then to another film in the afternoon.  It was fun, my cousin and I reveled in it.  A Hard Day's Night was on and my grandmother had heard that it was popular with young people so she took us.  My cousin and I were thrilled and proud of our cool grandma.  We loved it, I'm not sure about grandma!  My cousin and I were amused when some girls in the front rows were screaming and my grandmother tut tutted declaring "Fancy bringing babies to a film like this" and "Why don't their mothers take them out". She was serious and we didn't have the heart to tell her the screamers were Beatles fans.

My first Beatles LP and I still have it.

I loved the early Beatles' music, painstakingly saving up to buy their first LP...it took me months!  I went right off them, though, when they started going all psychedelic and weird. However these days I still pop their CDs on for a bit of nostalgia now and then. 

Ahhhh, memories, memories, 50 years, eh,...gone in a flash..

Handy Travel Hints

Today, for a change, I've decided to share some travel hints which I have found particularly useful.  Some are aimed at making travel easier for singles but most are helpful to anyone.  I hope they help to enhance all those wonderful trips you are planning! 

1) Where possible book accommodation with breakfast included.  I find that after a   hearty breakfast, all I need is a midday snack and a cup of coffee to see me through until dinner time.

2) I resent having to pay a single supplement.  In my opinion it's bad enough having to travel alone without being penalised for it.  Search the internet for deals which exclude the supplement, they are there. Some cruise companies waive it in the shoulder season and some group tours will pair you up with another single traveller to room share. Not everyone is comfortable with sharing with strangers, though, so if you want to keep costs down find a friend to travel with.  I have done this several times and it has worked well.  As there are more and more single older people travelling alone I think it is about time the tourism market catered for them somehow.  I am sure there are golden opportunities for businesses in this area.

3) Always take a book with you when eating alone in restaurants. I forgot to once in Hong Kong and felt lonely and uncomfortable.  It was a relief when, without being asked, the waiter bought me a book of photographs to look through.

4)  I have found that it is easier to get chatting to locals as a single person than it is as part of a couple and as a result have met some charming and interesting people along the way.  Be brave...it is often you who needs to open a conversation.  Be brave too if you simply want to excuse yourself from the conversation.  Best excuse "I am meeting a friend/my husband/wife/son etc"  or, if you distrust the person "My son the heavy weight champion!!" :-) Be open minded but cautious.

5) If you can afford it or, even better, if there is a special deal, upgrade to the executive floor of a hotel.  I have done this a few times and found it to be marvellous for a solo traveller.  Breakfast, afternoon tea, and generous happy hour finger food and drinks are usually all included in the price of the room.  Most good hotels have a dedicated lounge for the executive floor and at happy hour it is a great place to get into conversation with fellow travellers.  I have spent several days in Hong Kong and Vietnam staying at executive level and have met many interesting people to while away a couple of hours with.  Another plus is that I have ended up spending nothing at all on food, offsetting the extra cost for the room.

6) Trying to manage your luggage when you're alone can be difficult so invest in a four wheeled, hard shell suitcase.  They are expensive but well worth the investment.  Once you have one you will wonder why you hadn't bought one sooner.

7) Don't be afraid to ask people to take your photo on your camera so that you are in at least some of your photos.  They are generally flattered to be asked.  I have never been turned down and in return I offer to take their photo for them.

8) Take only one dressy outfit, unless on a cruise.  Usually I find I it isn't needed but is good to have just in case.

9) Pick up a hotel business card or brochure to carry with you to use for directions back to your hotel or to show a taxi driver when language is a barrier.

10) Use large snap lock bags for packing your underwear, socks, T shirts etc. (separately) and make sure you keep using them for the whole trip. It makes living out of a suitcase so much easier.

11) Three really handy items to take are a quilted vest which is useful as a make shift pillow and for chilly days, a sarong ( I take a Turkish hamam towel which is perfect)which can double as a towel, a sheet, a wrap or a beach cover up and a pillow case for dirty linen.  I always pack these and use them all the time.

12) Take a multi country power plug and remember your recharger leads

13)   I hate the crumpled look so I search out travel clothes which don't wrinkle and are non-iron.  It is worth the effort. Clothes don't wrinkle as much if you roll them to pack  but I still prefer the non iron option.

14) Other Helpful things to take: A selection of snacks, useful if you arrive late and/or are very tired.  Also good if you wake too early for breakfast, a common occurrence with time zone changes.  A notebook, for jotting down your experiences.  You think you will remember details but, believe me, you don't.  You can also take the notebook to a restaurant instead of a book.

15) Take a medicine kit. Include any prescribed medication, insect repellent, anti-diarrhoea medicine, antibiotic cream and anything else you think necessary

16) Those throw away shower caps from hotels are perfect for packing shoes in.

17) If you are going to a major attraction or one of the world's great museums or art galleries buy your tickets ahead.  It is a glorious feeling to sail past others queued at the ticket office and saves valuable travel time.

18) ...and, finally, take comfortable shoes.  This may be the last hint but it is probably the most important.  I learnt this early in my travels from painful experience.

Well, there you are folks.  Just a few tips I have picked up on my travels.  Please feel free to add any others in the comments  at the bottom of this page.  I love to hear other people's ideas.

Rambling Around the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia

 

Sunrise in Moloolaba, from our apartment

I love the Sunshine Coast north of Brisbane.  You have probably already gathered this from previous posts when I have talked of travels there with friends and family.  This May my sister-in-law and I decided that the onset of winter in New Zealand was a great time to take a break in the sun before settling in for the wintry haul towards summer. Our location of choice was Mooloolaba, ideal for its ready access to some delightful small towns in the surrounding area, its  long, golden surf beach and  vibrant mix of cafes, restaurants and enjoyably browseable shops, oh, and the all important supermarket for supplies.




Mooloolaba Beach

Our accommodation, at Osprey Apartments was spacious with two good sized bedrooms, two bathrooms and panoramic views up and down the coast line and across the surrounding countryside. We judged it to be perfect and happily settled in for a week's stay which seemed initially to stretch ahead forever but passed by all too quickly. As luck would have it we had 7 perfect sunny days with temperatures in the mid to high 20s. 

This was a relaxing week with plenty of time for reading, walking, hanging out and swimming. Nevertheless we still had time to visit many of the area's attractions, which I have already written about, and happily discovered a couple of new ones.


Spirit House Cooking School, Yandina

My sister-in-law is an excellent cook and a keen foodie.  When she discovered there was The Spirit House Thai cooking school in Yandina, half an hour from Mooloolaba, she was keen to visit and, as a lover of Thai food, so was I. It took us a wee while to find but we eventually  pulled into its small, unremarkable car park.


It was a thrilling and delightful surprise therefore to enter through the traditional Thai gate and discover an authentic, tropical, Thai garden, complete with pools, waterlilies, carp and statuary.  I was enraptured, never mind the cooking school, I was in heaven.








We wandered the gardens for a while, me furiously clicking my camera, before entering the cooking school, a long low building nestled amongst the trees.  The school holds daily cooking classes on a wide range of themes, from BBQ cooking to Asian Banquets and Traditional Thai.  The classes are $150A, are popular and usually booked out and include a meal of the food cooked, with a glass of wine, at the end of the class. There is a stunning restaurant in the grounds also.  Having been to Thailand on several occasions I could not shake the thought that I was back there.  We spent some time looking through the shop on site and both agreed that if we had had the time we would have loved to take a class there.

This is a major ginger growing area and just around the corner is the Ginger Factory which processes the ginger for sale.  The factory contains a theme park which includes tours of the factory, an old cane train for rides through lushly planted gardens, rides for the children, shopping and regular free entertainment.  It was late in the day when we arrived so we just looked around the shops and slurped on divine ginger and golden honey ice creams, the ice cream, honey and ginger all made on site.  The Ginger Factory looks like a fantastic place to take children for a day out.  Prices for rides were reasonable and access to the shops and gardens are free.  I'd happily go back there another time.


Colonial Cottage, Buderim

 I had passed through the small town of Buderim three years ago and liked the look of it so was more than happy to go and have a proper look. It is a growing and desirable  residential town with a population of around 40,000, a pleasant climate and views from it's mountain side location out to the coast. 

The main street is blessed with attractive unique stores - no chain stores, thanks very much!  We both loved the handcraft shop with its gorgeous selection of hand knitted and smocked baby clothes - very tempting but we managed not to succumb - and a group of happy chatty women  gathered around a large table enjoying a quilting bee. We found an excellent delicatessen where we bought supplies for dinner and had lunch at a lovely café run by 40s something women who seemed to be in a great muddle but produced delicious food.


After lunch we made our way to the town's colonial cottage, originally owned by one J K Burnett and built in 1880 from pit sawn cedar and beech.  There we met the delightful, voluntary guide, Joan, a bubbly, enthusiastic woman who we took to be around 80.  You would never know it, though, she was so full of life.  She told us she was a widow, who had retired to Buderim from Sydney and had never been happier.  Her life was full of activities, voluntary work, U3A (University of the third age), craft activities etc.  Such a happy, inspiring person, she made our day.  The cottage was a pleasure to look through, too, as a glimpse into the hard colonial life of early Australia.

So there you have it.  A week passes all too quickly and soon we were homeward bound with a bag full of good memories.
 I must also comment that we found every Australian we met to be friendly, helpful and chatty.  Good on you, Aussies!

www.spirithouse.com.au
www.gingerfactory.com.au
www.osprey.com.au

Awhitu Peninsula Lighthouse - Auckland, New Zealand

My spare day last week was gloriously fine and too good to waste so I decided to have an adventure and go somewhere I had never been before.  I had long wanted to visit the lighthouse on Awhitu Peninsula at the Manukau Heads so this was the day for it.

I have a great love of lighthouses.  There is something so romantic and comforting about those beacons of light guiding sailors home. Henry Longfellow aptly sums it up in his poem The Lighthouse:

"And the great ships sail outward and return

Bending and bowing o'er the billowy swells

And ever joyful as they see it burn

They wave their silent welcome and farewells"



 I can remember when I first became entranced by lighthouses.  I was about 7 or 8 years old and my family was visiting friends at Takapuna on Auckland's North Shore.  Their home was on the beach and as the day grew dark the powerful light from Tiri Island lighthouse flashed to and fro leaving its long silvery trail across the dark sea.  I was mesmerised and ever since have had a fascination with them.



A glorious day in the country

   The Awhitu lighthouse is 100 kilometres from my home, about an hour and a half by car.  The first half hour, on Auckland's Southern Motorway, is typical motorway driving then, after turning off at Drury, the road meanders through gently rolling, fertile farmland. The countryside, surrounding the rapidly growing rural township of Pukekohe, is famous as a market growing area due to its rich, dark volcanic soil. Vast perfectly plowed fields planted with health crops line the road gradually giving way  to dairy and sheep farms.  The route leads through the small town of Waiuku and out on to the lonely and isolated road leading to the lighthouse, about 40 kilometres away.  I loved my drive through the countryside, seeing few cars and pulling over to let the occasional car behind me pass so that I could take my time and enjoy the view. This was a warm still day but seeing the lines of trees on the ridges growing bent by the wind it is clear high winds buffet the peninsula at times.

Awhitu Lighhouse, Manukau Heads, Auckland

When I arrived at the end of the road there were just one car in the car park, its owners picnicing nearby.  It is a short climb up the hill to the lighthouse which stands high overlooking the entrance to Manukau harbour.  This reconstruction, dating from 2006, incorporating the original dome and lens, was built exactly to the plan of the original which operated from 1874 until 1986.  Visitors may enter the lighthouse, climb up the interior and walk around the exterior viewing deck.

View from the lighthouse

 The views are magnificent, looking out across the Tasman sea, along Whatipu Beach to the north, across to downtown Auckland, far in the distance, and over the countryside.  Apparently, on a clear day, it is possible to see as far south as Mt Taranaki and sometimes the world's rarest dolphins, the Maui, are seen cavorting in the sea below.  I saw neither but was more that happy with the view.

Another view, this time looking into Manukau Harbour.
 Auckland city can just be see on the horizon far left

The lighthouse was vital for the safety of mariners but has always required the backup of a signalman, a signalman still lives and communicates with ships, via VHF, lights and radar, from a house located just below the lighthouse.  The port of Onehunga within the harbour is a busy commercial port visited by around 200 ships a year.  Access to the port past the Manukau bar is treacherous, subject to rolling surf and the sand moving with the tides making it difficult to negotiate at the best of times. It has been the cause of many disasters, the most famous of all being the loss of the British man of war HMS Orpheus in 1863 when 185 lives were lost.  The story of the sinking of the Orpheus is interesting and tragic and until this day is New Zealand's worst maritime disaster.  The main cause of the sinking was that the captain disregarded the directions from the signalman and steered his own fateful course, relying on outdated charts. By the time a crewman realised they were in danger it was too late.

Looking south from the lighhouse

The lighthouse today is a serene and peaceful place surrounded by native plants and trees.  I wandered around for some time, enjoying the view and the romance of it all before retracing my journey back home with brief stops at the picturesque church at Awhitu and at Waiuku for a very late lunch. 

Tiny country church at Awhitu

www.manukauheadslighthouse.co.nz
www.aucklandnz.com/discover/Awhitu-Peninsula




All in all it was a fantastic day out.  I am so pleased I finally got to see the lighthouse and can tick that off my "to do" list

Ephesus - the jewel in Turkey's "ancient cities" crown

Looking down the main street of Ephesus

You would think that after nearly three weeks in Turkey and countless visits to ruined cities we would, by now,
be getting "all ruined out" but this was not the case.  Each ruined city we had visited had something fascinating and unique to offer and so it was with a great sense of anticipation that we set out for Ephesus.

 Dating back to the 7th century BC Ephesus was a vital link on the great trade route. Originally built beside the sea it was moved up onto the slopes of Mt Pion when silt filled the bay. The site of battles, revolts and conquests, including being claimed  by Alexander the Great, the city had a long and colourful history.  It was a glorious place during the Hellenistic period and was ceded to Rome by the Pergamese in 133BC.  The Anatolians revolted against the rule of Rome,  killing many Romans and in retaliation were punished with heavy taxes. During the reign of Augustus, Ephesus became the most important and powerful city in Asian Rome.  Christianity spread rapidly into Ephesus.  St Paul, who preached there, was despised by the Romans and imprisoned in the nearby lighthouse.  The Virgin Mary lived nearby with St John until her death. The Goths destroyed Ephesus and the Temple to Artemis, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, in 262AD.  The city's glory days were over.  With the port of Ephesus completely silted up the city was no longer a centre of trade and gradually declined until, in the 14th century it was abandoned.  I am no historian and many great scholars have written about the history of Ephesus.  It is a fascinating history and well worth a read.

Nike, Goddess of Victory

So, as a simple tourist, what did I think of Ephesus?  Well it is simply marvellous, far and away the best ruined city we had seen.  So much of the bones of the city are still in place and one can only marvel at how magnificent and glorious it must have been.  The marble paved main street falls gently down the hillside passing remnants of, but still clearly discernible, the baths, the Agora (market place), temples, fountains, a particularly beautiful carved relief of Nike, the goddess of victory among other things.

The Temple of Hadrian

The public latrines are an example of how society has changed.  Apparently men would meet at the latrines and sit communally discussing politics, life, etc while going about their, not so private, business.

 Houses of the rich Ephesians, from around 1st century AD, are on the slopes above this street.  They are currently being restored by archaeologists and are richly decorated with mosaics and frescoes.

The Celsus Library

At the bottom end of the main street is the spectacular centre piece of Ephesus today, the Celsus Library.  A centre of learning and debate the library contained 12,000 books, written on scrolls, until it was burnt and ruined by the Goths in 265AD.  The front of the library was restored in the 1970s. Across from the Library is the brothel, yes indeed the world's oldest profession!, and further along the road, carved into the marble street, is one of the earliest known advertising signs, an advertisement for, and directions to, the brothel.


The 24,500 seat Grand Theatre

The road  makes a right angle at the library and heads straight towards the vast 24,500 seat Grand Theatre.  This was used for everything from plays and  orchestral music  to gladiator fights with wild animals and is still used today for outdoor concerts.  High on the hill, overlooking Ephesus is the light house where St Paul was reputed to have been imprisoned.



The pillar is all that remains of the Temple of Artemis

A  short bus ride took us to the Temple of Artemis, which I mentioned earlier.  Archaeologists have found remnants dating back to the 8th century BC on the site, however the temple was rebuilt several times after being burned and ransacked on separate occasions. With the rise of Christianity the temple gradually lost its importance and over the centuries its materials were looted as building materials. Sadly, today, there is just one pillar remaining of this colossal wonder of the ancient world.

On a separate day I travelled to the house of the Blessed Virgin.  There is some scepticism that this is the house she lived in, (only the foundations remain) but the fact remains that she lived in this area and recorded historical details all point to it as the location.  Regardless, it is a beautiful, leafy, mountain location and a site of pilgrimage for both Christians and Muslims alike.  I found it to be a serene and peaceful place.

All that is left of Mary's House

So, there you are, another ruined city, another unique and fascinating place. If you go to Turkey Ephesus is a "must see".  It truly conveys the wonder of these magnificent ancient cities.  It has also whetted my appetite to read up on  the rich and colourful history of the city.

Visit to a Turkish Hamam(bath house) and smoking apple tea.

A trip has to be about experiencing the culture and not just about looking at the sights so there we were, in fear and trembling, stripped down to our knickers in a Turkish Hamam or bath house.  I had been quite looking forward to a good massage after many hours travelling in our mini bus and also a lot of hiking and walking making old muscles ache somewhat.  Others in our group were a little more nervous about the Hamam experience but everybody decided to give it a go.  This was a traditional Hamam, about 600 years old,  located in the centre of the town of Selcuk. 

After stripping down, the first step was to lie on a huge circular marble slab heated by a fire beneath.  We all lay there like spokes in a wheel,  giggling, joking and gently roasting. Great brawny Turkish men, clad only in cotton towels wrapped around their waists, barked orders at us in a no nonsense kind of way. After a long slow roast we were taken one by one to be scrubbed within an inch of our lives...so hard I thought my skin would come off.  This was followed by a good dowsing with buckets of cold water.



Waiting for our massage...(I'm 2nd from left)
and the only picture taken in the bath house...for obvious reasons!

We were then wrapped in towels and waited our turn to be smothered in oil and massaged by these powerfully strong men. Written down like that it doesn't sound like a fun activity but I assure you it was well worth it.  We came out sparkling clean, relaxed and all pink and glowing. In fact we all felt marvellous. I would highly recommend a visit to a Hamam while in Turkey but suggest, perhaps, steering clear of the more famous ones which may be a bit touristy.  As we left the Hamam an American couple were passing by.  The woman asked us in an incredulous voice "Did you just go in there?"  We said we had and she put her hand to her chest and said "Oh my!"  We told her it was wonderful and she should try it.  She didn't look convinced.



Our hookah coaches 

I get the hang of it...eventually!


The next evening it was time to hang out in a Turkish restaurant and smoke apple tea through a nargile or hookah.  I have not been a smoker and had never tried a hookah before so this was going to be another  novel experience.
 
After coaching by two young men who told us they were hookah teachers we set to and had a go.   The air around us was filled with shrieks of laughter as one or other of us forgot to inhale/exhale, whatever, but we finally got to master the technique and eventually sat there like old hands merrily puffing away.  Fortunately this café was familiar with tourists who don't know hookah etiquette.



Apparently part of the etiquette is to keep quiet and low key, which we certainly weren't, embarrassingly. I can understand why hookah smoking is popular in Turkey, it is very relaxing.  I have no idea whether this type of smoking is a health hazard but figured that once in a life time is not going to hurt.






Hils puffs away in style.

So there you are, two Turkish cultural activities, both heaps of fun with a feel good factor. If you're going to Turkey make sure you enjoy both.