Waikiki - Should you return to a place that holds magical memories?

Thirty years ago my husband and I took our sons to Hawaii for two weeks. We rented an apartment in Waikiki and, much to the boys, (all the boys!), delight, hired a bright red Mustang convertible.  We did all the sights; Pearl Harbour, Sea Life Park,  a walking tour of Chinatown, downtown Honolulu, the Bishop Museum. We snorkeled at Haunama Bay and drove right around the island of Oahu with the hood down, the boys squashed in the back and all of us singing at the top of our lungs. We visited Sunset Beach and the Banzai Pipeline, where we ate the famous snow cones with sweet beans at the bottom and stopped at a quiet local beach where we ate coconuts fresh from the tree.  We were enchanted by the Byodo-In temple, had lunch at The Willows restaurant and were privileged to see the famous musician Irmgard Farden Aluli perform there. The boys reveled in Perry's Smorgy's 'all you can eat' buffet and were thrilled to buy a 6 pack of coke for a dollar (even then that was an amazing bargain). Every afternoon, around 4pm, when the day was a bit cooler, we went to the beach and swam or sat on the sand outside the Royal Hawaiian watching people waltz and foxtrot at the tea dances held in the hotel ballroom. We loved people-watching on the beach, there seemed to be a constant stream of fascinating characters passing by.  On our way home we picked and poked in the small shops and stalls at the International Marketplace.  It was a marvelous, magical family holiday and despite the fact that the whole family is now much traveled this is the holiday we often talk about.

    Above: 30 years ago, me and my boys at 444 Nahua, our apartment.

Right: 2018 my sons were keen to revisit 444 Nahua to remember good times  

Left: 30 years ago, my husband and son at Byodo-In temple

Right: 2018 my son and grandson in the same spot










So, should we return? Would things have changed so much our memories would be ruined? My late husband refused to return for that reason.  He cherished the memories and wanted it to stay that way. However, recently I had a special birthday and wanted to have the whole family together.  Since one son and his family live in England and myself and a son and his family live in New Zealand I was searching for a family friendly place, sort of central, where we could all meet and Hawaii seemed to be the obvious destination.

There are nine in our family, four children and five adults, so we booked two apartments at The Embassy Suites, Waikiki, one road back from the beach. Embassy Suites is family friendly with a generous breakfast included in the price and the best happy hour I have ever come across - drinks are free for two hours every evening! Our days were happily busy, plenty of time for the children to swim in the pool and time for sightseeing as well.  Some of the family went to Pearl Harbour and we all took an excellent round island tour one day. We watched the Hilton Village's fireworks from the beach one night and during the day walked along the beach watching the multitude of surfers riding the waves. We had cocktails at the Royal Hawaian and at The House Without a Key and drank cool juices and beer at Maui Brewing and The Yard Bar. We had professional photos taken at the beautiful Kahala Resort and drove there in a stretch limousine, since the hotel told us it would cost the same as two taxis!  That was fun and a novel experience for the children. We rode the Waikiki Trolley and shopped at the vast Ala Moana Mall and the Waikele Outlets. We enjoyed the band playing by the pool each evening and took full advantage of Happy Hour while the children swam or ran races or danced to the music.

Palm trees, golden sand, balmy temperatures, trade breezes....what's not to love?

My birthday was very special and everything I could possibly wish for especially having my family together. I woke to find the lounge full of pink balloons and a cake with, I forget how many candles on it 😉. The children were fizzing with excitement.  I love how children enjoy birthdays regardless of whose it is. That evening my family took me to a luau at the Hilton Hotel.  It was an absolutely wonderful evening with great food, music, hula dancing and entertainment all under a stunning sunset and then a clear, bright starry sky. Walking back to our hotel that evening I felt incredibly blessed to have such a lovely family and such a perfect birthday. It was romantic walking along the beach under the stars with waves gently shhhhing on the shore and the faint sounds of Hawaiian music floating across the water from the hotels.

Happy Birthday, Grandma!

So, back to my question: "Should you return to a place that holds magical memories?" 

Waikiki has changed substantially from the Waikiki of 30 years ago.  It is busier, there are more people and more traffic but it still manages to retain a laid back charm somehow. There is a happy vibe about the place.  Perry's Smorgy has gone, although judging by the queues outside Eggs and Things that must be the new 'popular'.   There are many, many places to eat, you are spoilt for choice. Unfortunately the  International Market Place has been demolished and replaced by a large modern mall which is just a replica of the many other malls around Waikiki.  I had read differing reports about The Willows restaurant which had been fantastic 30 years ago so rather than destroy that memory we decided not to return there. It may still be good, I don't know.

My husband and sons at The Willows August 1988

Much of the beach along Waikiki is sadly diminished after several big storms and general erosion over the years.  On our first trip it was wide and safe with a gentle slope off into the sea, now it is narrow and has a very steep drop off in places, too dangerous for our young children to swim in, but there are plenty of spots they can.  The tea dances at the Royal Hawaiian are now a thing of the past too. Our accommodation was superb and the free fireworks on the beach were fun. We were there for just one week and had two very young children in tow so had less time and flexibility to do all the things we had done 30 years ago. Nevertheless it was a fantastic family holiday and we were glad we had returned enjoying it just as much as the first time but differently. My well traveled eldest grandchild summed it up " That is the best holiday I have ever had!" So, we made new memories which in no way alter our original ones and they are memories our whole family can share. I have to admit I felt deeply nostalgic at times, though, thinking of the times spent there with my husband and youngest son, both, sadly, no longer with us.

Preserve those memories

I think the key to enjoying a return visit to a place of magical memories is not to expect it to be the same and not to try to replicate your first holiday there.  We did things differently but enjoyed some of the places and memories from the past. It was the perfect way to celebrate my birthday.

At my birthday luau, Waikiki Hilton

A Foodie Weekend in Hawkes Bay, New Zealand

Recently I went to visit my cousin, John and his wife, Jan, in their new home in Napier. They had relocated from Auckland about a year ago so I was looking forward to seeing them and learning about their new life in  Hawkes Bay.  As it turned out my short visit evolved into a fantastic foodie weekend.  It hadn't really been planned that way but like all the best getaways, one good thing led to another.

Stunning views of the central North Island mountains from my flight to Hawkes Bay

A glorious sunny winter's day was a perfect start to the weekend as we headed out to the small seaside settlement of Clifton to get a view of the large gannet colony of Cape Kidnappers. 

The gannet colony of Cape Kidnappers on the Hawkes Bay coast

 Keen for a coffee, after a stroll along the shore, we spotted a cafe in a converted house set back across a field.  How fortuitous! Hygge at Clifton Bay was a delightful find.  Open for only three weeks the cafe is a new venture for former orchardist, Kerry and his school teacher wife, Robyn Brannigan. The whole aim of their cafe is to create a cosy, welcoming place of comfort, peace and enjoyment following the Danish principles of Hygge.  They have managed to achieve this and then some. With its wide views out to sea, comfortable settees, roaring log fires and scrumptious food - you must try the fig and date scones! - I could have happily spent an afternoon there. It was new to John and Jan too and they said that from now on it will be high on their list of places to take visitors.

A cosy corner of Hygge at Clifton Bay

But we had more foodie experiences to come so after a visit to the delightful and quirky potter, Maggie Taylor at MT Pots at Te Awanga, we headed to the nearby Clearview Estate Winery for lunch. I really enjoy winery lunch platters.  I think they are the perfect lunch and Clearview produces a particularly good one.  Here it is:

Hohepa feta and peperonata salad

Chicken liver pate

Barrel smoked marinated mushrooms

Chilli garlic fried prawns and chorizo

Prosciutto

Spice roasted olives and whole almonds

Sundried tomatoes

White bean dip

Cumin crackers and fresh baked bread

We washed it all down with their delicious Black Reef Blush Rose 2017

Yours truly with my cousin and his wife at Clearview Estate

Feeling well satisfied with our foodie morning we returned home for an
afternoon of rest and relaxation.

The next morning we set out for the Hawkes Bay Farmers Market.  I'm a great fan of farmers' markets and I think the Hawkes Bay Market has to be one of the best in New Zealand.  In summer the stalls are set up outside under large shady trees but this is winter so it was held inside in spacious pavilions. It is always a pleasure to wander around a market, meet with the producers of a diverse range of fruit, vegetables, meats and artisan products, have the odd tasting and listen to music in a relaxed atmosphere. 

Sauces, jams, mustards, pickles, at Hawkes Bay Farmers Market

It was also a pleasure to meet Jan's brother, stall holder, Clyde Potter, owner and director of The Chef's Garden @Epicurean and to view his lush, fresh, organic vegetables and selection of heritage seeds. Once laden with goodies we headed home to offload them before going out to lunch.

A selection of Clyde Potter's organic vegetables

Then we were off to the Philippine Restaurant, PAK, at West Shore, Napier, to attend a FAWC, ( Food and Wine Classic) event. This festival offers restaurants the opportunity to showcase their cuisine.  The atmosphere at PAK was convivial with diners seated together at long tables. The restaurateur started proceedings with a short talk on the Philippine style of cooking, the ingredients used and the philosophy behind it. As the meal progressed she  introduced each course with a description and short explanation. There were six courses in all:

Lumpiang Sariwa - Fresh vegetable spring rolls with sweet garlic sauce and peanuts

Patotin - Sous vide duck with asuete paste, cane vinegar and vegetables

Pochero - Beef bone broth with bone marrow

Fish - Gurnard with eskabeche sauce and vegetables

Lechon Baboy - Slow roasted suckling pig with vegetables and condiments

Biko - Sticky rice cake with coconut cream, and anise 

Gurnard with Eskabeche sauce

It was a pleasant surprise since I had never eaten Philippine cuisine before. The main features of Philippine food are the three flavours of sweet, sour and salty and a generous use of vinegar.  Dipping sauces are typical and something sweet is often paired with something salty so it is not unusual to be served mangoes dipped in salt. The result is unusual but very, very tasty. I will certainly eat Philippine food again whenever I can so I guess you can say the FAWC festival was great advertising for PAK restaurant and their particular style of cuisine. It was a perfect way to spend a Sunday afternoon - great food, excellent company and a convivial atmosphere. Amazingly it turned out that one of the friendly, chatty people sitting next to us was a relative, by marriage, of my late husband. 

Lechon Baboy - slow roasted suckling pig at PAK

To round off a great weekend we went for a couple of walks - well we needed to after that eat fest! - and spent time chatting, relaxing and catching up on news.  All in all a thoroughly enjoyable weekend. It was so good to spend time with relatives, who are also good friends, and to revisit part of the country I am very fond of. The fact that we got to enjoy some outstanding food was a major bonus.

Hawkes Bay Farmers Market is open on Sundays from 8.30 to 12.30

Those Pesky Single Supplements And How To Avoid Them

It is enough to strike terror into the heart of any solo traveller, that asterisk below a great travel deal that sends you to the small print below which tells you "Single Supplement applies".  Your delight soon turns to disappointment when you realise that that great travel deal isn't so great anymore.

Most tours and hotels cater for couples and their pricing is worked out on a double occupancy room rate, same price whether one or two people use it.  This is completely understandable since the room needs the same amount of cleaning and the bed linen the same amount of laundering for single or double occupancy.  Unfortunately those hotels that do offer single or studio rooms generally have them tucked away in the least attractive, often dark, part of the hotel making solo travellers feel pretty second rate. These rooms are usually more than half the price of a double anyway. A couple of years ago I took the spectacular Australian Ghan Train journey.  I loved every minute of it but it cost me a fortune because I had to pay almost double for single occupancy of a double room.  The Ghan does offer extremely compact single cabins with no single supplement but whereas double cabins have their own bathroom facilities, for single cabins bathrooms are shared and along the corridor. Call me fussy but, no thank you. 

Very comfortable single bed on
The Ghan

While young, solo, back packers are happy to stay in hostels and dorms,  older solo travellers, in the main, prefer the luxury and comfort available to couples, and why shouldn't they?, but not at close to double the cost.  Hotels and tours are missing a trick here.  The solo travel market is steadily growing and I believe that hotels with attractive single, cheaper, rooms would find a ready customer base.

I have done a lot of travelling in the ten years since my husband died and I hate to think what I have spent paying single supplements. Now I look for deals and try to avoid the dreaded SS if I can.

Book a hotel which includes breakfast and make it one of  your two main meals for the day, after all the hotel has priced breakfast for two people in your tariff.

Here are some hints for avoiding, or at least reducing the pain of the single supplement:

1. Book directly with a hotel, even couples will usually get the best price that way, and negotiate a deal or request a waiver - you have nothing to loose and just might be lucky
2. Travel off season.  Often tour companies are quieter then and may prefer at least one more traveller, at a single price, to fill their spaces.
3. Google "single holiday specialists" and see what's on offer.
4. Share with a friend.  I have done this several times and it has been fun but I take most trips alone and I don't want to share with strangers.
5. A few travel companies will pair you with a room mate if you are happy to share.  Intrepid Travel is a good company for this.
6. If you are fit and adventurous go on adventure holidays.  Accommodation is likely to be hostels or dormitories and you will pay for a single only.
7. Take a repositioning cruise on a cruise ship.  These are great value as the ship is simply returning to a starting point and it makes sense to fill the cabins on the way there.  The cruise will still be as good as any other cruise.
8. Cruise ship companies are now realising that the solo travel market is growing and are increasing their numbers of single cabins. Norwegian Cruiseline offers 128 studio cabins, P and O  has 18 on The Azzura and will have 27 on The Britannia, even Cunard offers 9 on the Queen Elizabeth 2.  Do a Google search for cruise ships with single cabins. Many European river cruises waive the single supplement too.
9. Set up a Google Alert with a message like "Single Supplement
   waived".  This way deals will come direct to you.
10. And last, but not least, my favourite tip.  Be a truly independent traveller, it is what I do most of the time. Book your airfare to a destination yourself (look for a good deal), also book the hotel directly asking if they have a "special" or a deal. Make sure you get a hotel which includes breakfast in the room tariff.  At your destination book a single ticket on day trips.  I travelled to many places in both Portugal and the Czech Republic on day trips, I got to see a lot of both countries but also had the freedom to be spontaneous. This way you avoid any single supplement apart from double occupancy of your hotel room. 

On  my self booked trip to bath.  I negotiated a great deal by booking direct with the hotel

I know the disappointment and frustration of having to pay a single supplement.  It is bad enough not having the pleasure of travelling with your loved one without having to pay a premium for it.  I hope you find these hints helpful and that maybe, if enough people start making noises, more travel companies will get the message and start catering more fairly to the solo market.

  Happy solo travels!!

Ika Bowl , Auckland - Nutritious, delicious, Polynesian food

Art by Askew One

The first thing you notice when you walk into Ika Bowl is the stunning wall art by artist, Askew One, next, your eyes are  drawn to the wide array of delicious fresh food laid out in bowls ready to be made into poke.  Poke, or raw fish salad, has its origins in Hawaii where fishermen used the raw off cuts of fish to make a quick meal. It is a portable and healthy alternative to filled rolls and sandwiches and is a rapidly growing food trend, proving to be hugely popular with city workers.

Ika Bowl is the brain child of three charming, personable  friends, Ra, Hutu and Navi, all of Pacifica heritage, who had a dream of bringing delicious, nutritious, raw and real food, with a South Pacific, Polynesian twist, to Auckland.  Since Auckland is the largest Polynesian city in the world nothing could be more apt.

Service with a smile from Hutu

The three young men first formed their friendship as students at Alfriston College in South Auckland.  Having all studied Business Management at University the next logical step was to go into business together and put their knowledge into action. They are equal partners in the business each taking on different management roles - food/shop management, finance/business and advertising/marketing.

The selection at Ika Bowl is wide and you can either select individual ingredients to make a bowl of your choice or choose one of the six different bowls on the menu.  Bowls come in two different sizes, small ($10.90 to $12.90) or large ($12.90 to $15.90).  I find the small bowl is more than adequate for me and am sure those with a healthy appetite would be well satisfied with the large.

As an example the most popular dish, Moana, consists of a base of brown or white rice, chunks of raw king salmon, shallots, sweet red onion, carrots, seaweed salad, roasted sesame sauce, topped with toene (egg) and wasabi peas.  I particularly like the Koko Loko dish which includes raw tuna, golden chunks of mango and toasted coconut flakes.  There are also hot and spicy choices, a poached chicken dish, for those who prefer it, and a tofu dish for vegetarians.

Koko Loko bowl with chunks of raw tuna, mango and toasted coconut flakes - delicious!

 Ika Bowl has a superb location in Fort Lane on the corner of Snickel Lane and right opposite the chic, New York cool, Imperial Cafe. Customers can eat at tables in the covered Snickel Lane if they wish. Ra said that they chose the location because they could be assured of good foot traffic and this is proving to be the case.

Lunch time queue at Ika Bowl

I have bought lunch at Ika Bowl several times so here is a handy hint...get there before mid day or after 1.30pm, if you can, otherwise be prepared to queue, it is very popular. However don't worry if there is a queue, it moves fast, service is slick and efficient.

Ra, Hutu and Navi all told me they are loving running the business. They are enjoying putting their business knowledge into action and get their reward from the happiness and smiles of their customers. 

If you are in Auckland I suggest you get along to Ika Bowl for an authentic and healthy Polynesian food experience.

Address:  Corner of Fort Lane and Snickel Lane, downtown Auckland
Hours:     11am to 5.30pm Monday to Saturday
Website:  www.ikabowl.co.nz   

#polynesianfood  #pokebowlauckland  #aucklandcityeats #ikabowlauckland

Larnach's Castle, Dunedin, New Zealand

High on the hills of the Otago Peninsula is New Zealand's one and only castle, although its not really a castle. The former stately home of William Larnach (1833-1898)  gained the 'castle' nick name from its Gothic Revival design. He called it The Camp, which may have been an in joke and a hark back to the days when his banking office on the Australian goldfields was simply a tent in a camp on the other hand perhaps he was being ironic.

Tiled entry  to Larnach's Castle - The Camp 

Larnach had made his money as a successful banker during both the Australian and New Zealand gold rushes.  He developed a business empire which included banking, shipping, farming, land holding and speculation.  He was also a politician in the New Zealand parliament for more than 25 years.  On a day trip out on the Otago Peninsula he spotted a piece of land with panoramic views of the city and harbour - he had found the perfect spot to build his dream home.  As a man of means he was able to indulge his desire for something very grand.  It took 200 men three years to build the exterior shell and then another 12 years to decorate the interior, employing European craftsmen for the work. Only the finest of materials were used, among them native New Zealand timbers but also imported marble, glass and slate.  The castle had 43 rooms and 46 staff and was set on 35 acres with an adjoining farm of 300 acres. It was one of the grandest, if not the grandest house, in New Zealand.

Larnach's Castle - the ballroom is a separate building to the right

At the time of his tragic death Larnach was in financial difficulty, many of his business ventures had failed and he had personal family problems to deal with. His family found it hard to sell The Castle, partly because its location 15 kilometres from the city wasn't practical and also because maintenance costs would be prohibitive. In the end  it was sold cheaply, changing hands several times, and being used for many different purposes over the years including as an asylum for the mentally ill, a nun's retreat, and a hostel for American soldiers during WWII. By the time the Barker family purchased it in 1967 little maintenance had been  done, and most of the original furnishings  removed, leaving it in a sad state of disrepair. And that's how it was when I visited around 40 years ago.

The grand stairway winds through the middle of the house, note the fine tiles on the floors

My recent visit to Dunedin was an opportunity to visit again. I had heard good things about its restoration and wasn't disappointed-what a difference!  The Barker family have worked hard to bring the castle back to its former glory, and it shows.  Built over four levels, around a grand sweeping staircase, every room has been restored and refurnished. Much of the furniture, which the Barker family have painstakingly tracked down and either purchased or borrowed, is original to the house.  There are Venetian glass windows, elaborately carved English oak ceilings and Italian marble fire places gracing many rooms. There are mosaic tiles from Belgium and ceramic floor tiles from Stoke-on-Trent, England, and the bathroom has a one ton marble bath, a copy of one found in the ruins of Herculaneum. The house is lavish and extravagant and it is true to say that thanks to the Barker family the castle is, once again, a grand house in all its glory.

The grand, baronial interior. The tartan carpet is a nod to Larnach's Scottish heritage (photo: Larnach's Castle web page)

At the very top of the castle is a turret, reached by a narrow spiral staircase and worth climbing for the spectacular views over the harbour and Dunedin. After touring the house you can stop for refreshments in the Ballroom Cafe built by Larnach especially for his daughter, Kate's, 21st birthday. High tea is served there at 3pm daily.  It is now hard to believe that during the years of the castle's decline the ballroom had been used as a sheep barn.

There are magnificent views over the harbour, both from the castle and the gardens

Don't visit the castle without a wander around the gardens.  The 7 acres of manicured gardens have been a labour of love for Margaret Barker and have attained the coveted status of A Garden of International Significance. They are beautiful and in this quiet rural location, serene.  The Barker family also offer accommodation nearby and the castle is in high demand as a wedding and conference venue.

The heather bed makes quite a show

Larnach's Castle is really the story of two families with vision.  Firstly Larnach who built it for his beloved first wife, Constance, and had visions of grandeur and the Barker family who had the vision to take on a decaying ruin and turn it into not only one of Dunedin's foremost tourist attractions but also to preserve a rare and beautiful piece of New Zealand history.

I'm so pleased I paid a return visit, it is really satisfying to see the work of dedicated people come to fruition and anyone who works at preserving history is a hero in my opinion.

The Castle is open daily from 9am to 5pm.  
Adults $31 Children aged 5 to 14 $15.50 Under 5 Free
www.larnachscastle.co.nz

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Top Tips For Solo Travelers - Updated

 I first  experienced solo travel when I worked in International Education and needed to travel to various countries to attend education fairs and meet with recruitment agents.  I'll never forget my first solo  trip, talk about a baptism of fire! There I was dropped off on a busy city street in Bangkok armed with a suitcase, a laptop and a huge bag of promotional materials and no idea where my hotel was because I couldn't read the signs.  After consulting my map I worked out that I needed to get up an over-bridge to the other side of the multi-laned highway.  As I staggered up the stairs, in 30 degree heat, a kindly local helped carry my bags before leaving me to trek about a kilometre to my hotel.  Rather than being overwhelmed by this incident I enjoyed the challenge of negotiating a new city and was elated when I reached the hotel.  I thought that from then on every other trip would be easier, and it has been.

So, before having solo travel thrust on me by widowhood, I had already had some experience of it.  I have traveled to many countries alone now and always enjoy my solo trips.  I do enjoy other trips I make with friends and family however most of my travel is alone.  Here, for what it's worth, are some of my best tips to get the most out of solo travel.

• Be brave.  Don't be afraid to head off into the world alone.  It is not as scary as you think it is and the rewards of solo travel are immense.

• Make sure people back home have your itinerary and some contact numbers for you. If you know where you are staying give them the hotel numbers in case you lose your phone.

• Get a business card from each hotel with their phone number and address on it to carry with you - good for showing to taxi/bus drivers and/or finding your way back. Also mark your accommodation on a map and carry the map with you.

• Have more than one cash flow/credit card with you and keep them in different places, i.e. carry one and leave one in the hotel safe or hidden in your luggage.

A selfie in a handy mirror, Lisbon, Portugal 

• Revel in it.  You can enjoy the freedom to do what you want when you want.  You do not have to consider another person or make compromises and you can change your mind whenever you want. I love just doing things as my heart desires, jumping on trains on the spur of the moment and exploring things that appeal to me.

• Be street wise.  Take care of your safety.  Be friendly to people but always be on guard for scams and cheats.  That very charming person who seems so polite and kind and has offered to show you the city is very likely waiting their chance to rip you off. Never accept a drink from a stranger and always keep an eye on your drink, I have heard some people even take their drinks to the toilet with them just to be sure.

• Talk to locals.  I have found that traveling alone provides way more opportunities to speak to locals than being part of a couple does.  Couples are usually involved in each other and other people do not wish to intrude. Be happy to open a conversation and see what evolves.  You have nothing to lose.

Sunshine, the morning paper, coffee for one and the sea = bliss
Mooloolaba, Australia

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• Eating out alone can be difficult for some people but I don't mind it.  More and more restaurants have communal tables which is a great way to meet people.  A quick google search will usually find these restaurants in your location.  Or take a book, e-reader or note book to the restaurant with you.  Once, in Hong Kong, a kindly waiter bought me a book when he noticed I was alone and had forgotten mine. Most places have free wifi now so you can surf the net to your heart's content. On my recent trip on Australia's Ghan train I particularly enjoyed being seated with different people for each meal.  I loved sharing food, wine and some great conversations with strangers.

• Take walking tours or day tours.  This is a great way to see the sights and meet people even if only briefly.  I usually do this when I am in a foreign city and have always found it rewarding.  A lot of tours include a meal so you can enjoy the pleasure of dining with others too.

 Photo by a friendly stranger on my
solo trip to the Czech Republic

• Get into your photography.  Being alone means you are not holding anyone else up if you want to take half an hour to get the perfect shot.  Ask people to take your photo and offer to take theirs.  Most people are only too pleased.    Once again, though, be streetwise and careful who you ask, you don't want that precious camera stolen.

• Be prepared to pay the single supplement if, like me, you do not want to share a room with a stranger.  Yes, it is expensive to travel alone but only for accommodation, everything else e.g. airfares, food and tours you pay for one.  Some travel companies will pair the budget conscious traveller up with another solo traveller.

• Get up early and have a large breakfast, then get out exploring. You don't have to wait for someone else to get organised for the day. Many hotels include breakfast in the tariff and  I find a big breakfast takes me through the day with just a light snack somewhere along the way. As an older solo traveller I have no interest in night clubbing so I make the most of the day and relax in my hotel room at night.  That said, I have wandered the streets of many Asian and European cities at night and never felt uncomfortable.  Just ensure you always stay on busy, crowded streets.

Train journeys are great for meeting people

• The old politician's trick, admire babies.  All parents love to have their children admired and this can often lead to a friendly conversation, especially on long train journeys.

• It is normal to feel lonely sometimes when you travel alone, occasionally I have felt  overwhelmed by loneliness so that's when  I concentrate on all the good things about solo travel. If my budget allows it I like to book a hotel room with a view, it can be totally absorbing watching street life below. I dash off a few e-mails, write my travel diary, watch local television and try to work out what they are saying, use up all the hotel room's shower wash in a big bubble bath, order room service and retire to bed happy and sleepy looking forward to the next day's adventures.

Finally...just try it.  We all have just one life and it is up to us to make the most of it.  If you don't enjoy solo travel don't do it again but I am sure you will find the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.  Enjoy!

And If you have any other hints please post them in the comments section.  I would love to have them!

Missmoo's Kitchen - The sweetest Little Coffeehouse in Auckland

There is nothing more nostalgic than the sight and smell of Grandma's baking and this is what Tracy Mulholland has perfectly replicated in Missmoo's Kitchen, her pretty coffeehouse in St Heliers, Auckland.

Tracy Mulholland aka Missmoo

Having had a successful 27 year career in banking Tracy decided it was time to follow her dream and open a coffeehouse.   Happy childhood memories of both her Nan's and her mother's baking was her inspiration and her plan was to bring back food 'how it used to be'.   She also had a vision of how the coffeehouse would look.  It was to have both a contemporary and a nostalgic feel. It was important to Tracy to have Royal Albert china as a reminder of her beloved Nan so she spent a few years collecting enough to stock the shop.  She told me that when customers walk in they are delighted to see the beautiful china lined up on shelves behind the counter and are eager to share their own memories of Royal Albert.  The china is a real draw card.

Beautiful china and old fashioned delights

 The second part of her vision was a large gilded mirror and, thirdly,  a glamorous toilet because experience had taught her most cafes toilets are not. Her vision has come together beautifully and, yes, the toilet is lovely, well worth a visit! There is also a good sized out door seating area surrounded by a white picket fence.  The cafe is on a quiet street, has a view over the surrounding suburb and a big plus is the ample free parking outside.

Glamour in the toilet and outdoor seating

Her mother's recipe book

All cooking and food preparation is done on site at Missmoo's with delicious offerings of delicate club sandwiches, the lightest of asparagus rolls, old fashioned savories, South Island cheese rolls, tasty pies and, of course, fresh from the oven, scones. The cakes and sweets are particularly tempting.  Who can go past a slice of fresh baked ginger crunch, an afghan, a coconut ice slice and many other treats?  For children there are the party favourites, chocolate crackles, rice bubble slice and  fairy bread to accompany their fluffy or hot chocolate. Glass jars on the counter offer, fudges and coconut ice. Tracy and her team bake the recipes from her mother's well thumbed, hand written, recipe book and the ever popular Edmonds Cookbook. There is not an over stuffed panini or hard to handle baguette in sight.






Brought up as the daughter of the publicans of Lake Ianthe Tavern in Westland, New Zealand, hospitality, cooking and baking for customers is in Tracy's blood.  She recalls that as a child she helped in the kitchen and by the time she was 9 she could change kegs on her own. She has always enjoyed both baking and sharing her baking with other people so this cafe is the culmination of what she calls 'following her heart'.  Tracy's fiance, Mark, and Mark's sister, Andrea, together with barista, Hollie, assist Tracy making it a very personal family business, even Tracy and Mark's 8 year old daughter, Georgia, is a dab hand at making the odd coffee and quick as lightning on the till.

Missmoo and her crew, Andrea, Hollie and daughter, Georgia

If you are wondering where the name Missmoo's Kitchen comes from it is from Tracy's surname Mulholland which was shortened to Mu as part of her ID in banking.  Before long everyone was calling her Miss Mu or Missmoo. Kitchen because it features good old fashioned baking from its very own kitchen.

I love this little coffee house and have been there many times, which is why I was inspired to write this post.  I love the whole package, the ambiance, the food, the friendliness of the staff, the convenient location.  I suggest you go and see for yourself.

Facebook:                Missmoo's Kitchen
Instagram:              missmooskitchen

Location:                   : 50 Waimarie Street St Heliers
Opening hours are   : 7am to 3.30pm Week days  
                                     8am to 2.30pm Weekends
Coffee Brand            : Allpress
Teas                           : Noble and Savage - a large range including herbals   

UPDATE: THIS WEEK ON JANUARY 14TH 2025 MISSMOOS CHANGED HANDS. THE NEW OWNERS WILL, OF COURSE, BRING THEIR OWN FLAVOUR AND STYLE TO THE CAFE BUT INTEND TO CARRY THE NAME AND TRACY'S LEGACY FORWARD