Those Pesky Single Supplements And How To Avoid Them

It is enough to strike terror into the heart of any solo traveller, that asterisk below a great travel deal that sends you to the small print below which tells you "Single Supplement applies".  Your delight soon turns to disappointment when you realise that that great travel deal isn't so great anymore.

Most tours and hotels cater for couples and their pricing is worked out on a double occupancy room rate, same price whether one or two people use it.  This is completely understandable since the room needs the same amount of cleaning and the bed linen the same amount of laundering for single or double occupancy.  Unfortunately those hotels that do offer single or studio rooms generally have them tucked away in the least attractive, often dark, part of the hotel making solo travellers feel pretty second rate. These rooms are usually more than half the price of a double anyway. A couple of years ago I took the spectacular Australian Ghan Train journey.  I loved every minute of it but it cost me a fortune because I had to pay almost double for single occupancy of a double room.  The Ghan does offer extremely compact single cabins with no single supplement but whereas double cabins have their own bathroom facilities, for single cabins bathrooms are shared and along the corridor. Call me fussy but, no thank you. 

Very comfortable single bed on
The Ghan

While young, solo, back packers are happy to stay in hostels and dorms,  older solo travellers, in the main, prefer the luxury and comfort available to couples, and why shouldn't they?, but not at close to double the cost.  Hotels and tours are missing a trick here.  The solo travel market is steadily growing and I believe that hotels with attractive single, cheaper, rooms would find a ready customer base.

I have done a lot of travelling in the ten years since my husband died and I hate to think what I have spent paying single supplements. Now I look for deals and try to avoid the dreaded SS if I can.

Book a hotel which includes breakfast and make it one of  your two main meals for the day, after all the hotel has priced breakfast for two people in your tariff.

Here are some hints for avoiding, or at least reducing the pain of the single supplement:

1. Book directly with a hotel, even couples will usually get the best price that way, and negotiate a deal or request a waiver - you have nothing to loose and just might be lucky
2. Travel off season.  Often tour companies are quieter then and may prefer at least one more traveller, at a single price, to fill their spaces.
3. Google "single holiday specialists" and see what's on offer.
4. Share with a friend.  I have done this several times and it has been fun but I take most trips alone and I don't want to share with strangers.
5. A few travel companies will pair you with a room mate if you are happy to share.  Intrepid Travel is a good company for this.
6. If you are fit and adventurous go on adventure holidays.  Accommodation is likely to be hostels or dormitories and you will pay for a single only.
7. Take a repositioning cruise on a cruise ship.  These are great value as the ship is simply returning to a starting point and it makes sense to fill the cabins on the way there.  The cruise will still be as good as any other cruise.
8. Cruise ship companies are now realising that the solo travel market is growing and are increasing their numbers of single cabins. Norwegian Cruiseline offers 128 studio cabins, P and O  has 18 on The Azzura and will have 27 on The Britannia, even Cunard offers 9 on the Queen Elizabeth 2.  Do a Google search for cruise ships with single cabins. Many European river cruises waive the single supplement too.
9. Set up a Google Alert with a message like "Single Supplement
   waived".  This way deals will come direct to you.
10. And last, but not least, my favourite tip.  Be a truly independent traveller, it is what I do most of the time. Book your airfare to a destination yourself (look for a good deal), also book the hotel directly asking if they have a "special" or a deal. Make sure you get a hotel which includes breakfast in the room tariff.  At your destination book a single ticket on day trips.  I travelled to many places in both Portugal and the Czech Republic on day trips, I got to see a lot of both countries but also had the freedom to be spontaneous. This way you avoid any single supplement apart from double occupancy of your hotel room. 

On  my self booked trip to bath.  I negotiated a great deal by booking direct with the hotel

I know the disappointment and frustration of having to pay a single supplement.  It is bad enough not having the pleasure of travelling with your loved one without having to pay a premium for it.  I hope you find these hints helpful and that maybe, if enough people start making noises, more travel companies will get the message and start catering more fairly to the solo market.

  Happy solo travels!!

Ika Bowl , Auckland - Nutritious, delicious, Polynesian food

Art by Askew One

The first thing you notice when you walk into Ika Bowl is the stunning wall art by artist, Askew One, next, your eyes are  drawn to the wide array of delicious fresh food laid out in bowls ready to be made into poke.  Poke, or raw fish salad, has its origins in Hawaii where fishermen used the raw off cuts of fish to make a quick meal. It is a portable and healthy alternative to filled rolls and sandwiches and is a rapidly growing food trend, proving to be hugely popular with city workers.

Ika Bowl is the brain child of three charming, personable  friends, Ra, Hutu and Navi, all of Pacifica heritage, who had a dream of bringing delicious, nutritious, raw and real food, with a South Pacific, Polynesian twist, to Auckland.  Since Auckland is the largest Polynesian city in the world nothing could be more apt.

Service with a smile from Hutu

The three young men first formed their friendship as students at Alfriston College in South Auckland.  Having all studied Business Management at University the next logical step was to go into business together and put their knowledge into action. They are equal partners in the business each taking on different management roles - food/shop management, finance/business and advertising/marketing.

The selection at Ika Bowl is wide and you can either select individual ingredients to make a bowl of your choice or choose one of the six different bowls on the menu.  Bowls come in two different sizes, small ($10.90 to $12.90) or large ($12.90 to $15.90).  I find the small bowl is more than adequate for me and am sure those with a healthy appetite would be well satisfied with the large.

As an example the most popular dish, Moana, consists of a base of brown or white rice, chunks of raw king salmon, shallots, sweet red onion, carrots, seaweed salad, roasted sesame sauce, topped with toene (egg) and wasabi peas.  I particularly like the Koko Loko dish which includes raw tuna, golden chunks of mango and toasted coconut flakes.  There are also hot and spicy choices, a poached chicken dish, for those who prefer it, and a tofu dish for vegetarians.

Koko Loko bowl with chunks of raw tuna, mango and toasted coconut flakes - delicious!

 Ika Bowl has a superb location in Fort Lane on the corner of Snickel Lane and right opposite the chic, New York cool, Imperial Cafe. Customers can eat at tables in the covered Snickel Lane if they wish. Ra said that they chose the location because they could be assured of good foot traffic and this is proving to be the case.

Lunch time queue at Ika Bowl

I have bought lunch at Ika Bowl several times so here is a handy hint...get there before mid day or after 1.30pm, if you can, otherwise be prepared to queue, it is very popular. However don't worry if there is a queue, it moves fast, service is slick and efficient.

Ra, Hutu and Navi all told me they are loving running the business. They are enjoying putting their business knowledge into action and get their reward from the happiness and smiles of their customers. 

If you are in Auckland I suggest you get along to Ika Bowl for an authentic and healthy Polynesian food experience.

Address:  Corner of Fort Lane and Snickel Lane, downtown Auckland
Hours:     11am to 5.30pm Monday to Saturday
Website:  www.ikabowl.co.nz   

#polynesianfood  #pokebowlauckland  #aucklandcityeats #ikabowlauckland

Larnach's Castle, Dunedin, New Zealand

High on the hills of the Otago Peninsula is New Zealand's one and only castle, although its not really a castle. The former stately home of William Larnach (1833-1898)  gained the 'castle' nick name from its Gothic Revival design. He called it The Camp, which may have been an in joke and a hark back to the days when his banking office on the Australian goldfields was simply a tent in a camp on the other hand perhaps he was being ironic.

Tiled entry  to Larnach's Castle - The Camp 

Larnach had made his money as a successful banker during both the Australian and New Zealand gold rushes.  He developed a business empire which included banking, shipping, farming, land holding and speculation.  He was also a politician in the New Zealand parliament for more than 25 years.  On a day trip out on the Otago Peninsula he spotted a piece of land with panoramic views of the city and harbour - he had found the perfect spot to build his dream home.  As a man of means he was able to indulge his desire for something very grand.  It took 200 men three years to build the exterior shell and then another 12 years to decorate the interior, employing European craftsmen for the work. Only the finest of materials were used, among them native New Zealand timbers but also imported marble, glass and slate.  The castle had 43 rooms and 46 staff and was set on 35 acres with an adjoining farm of 300 acres. It was one of the grandest, if not the grandest house, in New Zealand.

Larnach's Castle - the ballroom is a separate building to the right

At the time of his tragic death Larnach was in financial difficulty, many of his business ventures had failed and he had personal family problems to deal with. His family found it hard to sell The Castle, partly because its location 15 kilometres from the city wasn't practical and also because maintenance costs would be prohibitive. In the end  it was sold cheaply, changing hands several times, and being used for many different purposes over the years including as an asylum for the mentally ill, a nun's retreat, and a hostel for American soldiers during WWII. By the time the Barker family purchased it in 1967 little maintenance had been  done, and most of the original furnishings  removed, leaving it in a sad state of disrepair. And that's how it was when I visited around 40 years ago.

The grand stairway winds through the middle of the house, note the fine tiles on the floors

My recent visit to Dunedin was an opportunity to visit again. I had heard good things about its restoration and wasn't disappointed-what a difference!  The Barker family have worked hard to bring the castle back to its former glory, and it shows.  Built over four levels, around a grand sweeping staircase, every room has been restored and refurnished. Much of the furniture, which the Barker family have painstakingly tracked down and either purchased or borrowed, is original to the house.  There are Venetian glass windows, elaborately carved English oak ceilings and Italian marble fire places gracing many rooms. There are mosaic tiles from Belgium and ceramic floor tiles from Stoke-on-Trent, England, and the bathroom has a one ton marble bath, a copy of one found in the ruins of Herculaneum. The house is lavish and extravagant and it is true to say that thanks to the Barker family the castle is, once again, a grand house in all its glory.

The grand, baronial interior. The tartan carpet is a nod to Larnach's Scottish heritage (photo: Larnach's Castle web page)

At the very top of the castle is a turret, reached by a narrow spiral staircase and worth climbing for the spectacular views over the harbour and Dunedin. After touring the house you can stop for refreshments in the Ballroom Cafe built by Larnach especially for his daughter, Kate's, 21st birthday. High tea is served there at 3pm daily.  It is now hard to believe that during the years of the castle's decline the ballroom had been used as a sheep barn.

There are magnificent views over the harbour, both from the castle and the gardens

Don't visit the castle without a wander around the gardens.  The 7 acres of manicured gardens have been a labour of love for Margaret Barker and have attained the coveted status of A Garden of International Significance. They are beautiful and in this quiet rural location, serene.  The Barker family also offer accommodation nearby and the castle is in high demand as a wedding and conference venue.

The heather bed makes quite a show

Larnach's Castle is really the story of two families with vision.  Firstly Larnach who built it for his beloved first wife, Constance, and had visions of grandeur and the Barker family who had the vision to take on a decaying ruin and turn it into not only one of Dunedin's foremost tourist attractions but also to preserve a rare and beautiful piece of New Zealand history.

I'm so pleased I paid a return visit, it is really satisfying to see the work of dedicated people come to fruition and anyone who works at preserving history is a hero in my opinion.

The Castle is open daily from 9am to 5pm.  
Adults $31 Children aged 5 to 14 $15.50 Under 5 Free
www.larnachscastle.co.nz

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Top Tips For Solo Travelers - Updated

 I first  experienced solo travel when I worked in International Education and needed to travel to various countries to attend education fairs and meet with recruitment agents.  I'll never forget my first solo  trip, talk about a baptism of fire! There I was dropped off on a busy city street in Bangkok armed with a suitcase, a laptop and a huge bag of promotional materials and no idea where my hotel was because I couldn't read the signs.  After consulting my map I worked out that I needed to get up an over-bridge to the other side of the multi-laned highway.  As I staggered up the stairs, in 30 degree heat, a kindly local helped carry my bags before leaving me to trek about a kilometre to my hotel.  Rather than being overwhelmed by this incident I enjoyed the challenge of negotiating a new city and was elated when I reached the hotel.  I thought that from then on every other trip would be easier, and it has been.

So, before having solo travel thrust on me by widowhood, I had already had some experience of it.  I have traveled to many countries alone now and always enjoy my solo trips.  I do enjoy other trips I make with friends and family however most of my travel is alone.  Here, for what it's worth, are some of my best tips to get the most out of solo travel.

• Be brave.  Don't be afraid to head off into the world alone.  It is not as scary as you think it is and the rewards of solo travel are immense.

• Make sure people back home have your itinerary and some contact numbers for you. If you know where you are staying give them the hotel numbers in case you lose your phone.

• Get a business card from each hotel with their phone number and address on it to carry with you - good for showing to taxi/bus drivers and/or finding your way back. Also mark your accommodation on a map and carry the map with you.

• Have more than one cash flow/credit card with you and keep them in different places, i.e. carry one and leave one in the hotel safe or hidden in your luggage.

A selfie in a handy mirror, Lisbon, Portugal 

• Revel in it.  You can enjoy the freedom to do what you want when you want.  You do not have to consider another person or make compromises and you can change your mind whenever you want. I love just doing things as my heart desires, jumping on trains on the spur of the moment and exploring things that appeal to me.

• Be street wise.  Take care of your safety.  Be friendly to people but always be on guard for scams and cheats.  That very charming person who seems so polite and kind and has offered to show you the city is very likely waiting their chance to rip you off. Never accept a drink from a stranger and always keep an eye on your drink, I have heard some people even take their drinks to the toilet with them just to be sure.

• Talk to locals.  I have found that traveling alone provides way more opportunities to speak to locals than being part of a couple does.  Couples are usually involved in each other and other people do not wish to intrude. Be happy to open a conversation and see what evolves.  You have nothing to lose.

Sunshine, the morning paper, coffee for one and the sea = bliss
Mooloolaba, Australia

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• Eating out alone can be difficult for some people but I don't mind it.  More and more restaurants have communal tables which is a great way to meet people.  A quick google search will usually find these restaurants in your location.  Or take a book, e-reader or note book to the restaurant with you.  Once, in Hong Kong, a kindly waiter bought me a book when he noticed I was alone and had forgotten mine. Most places have free wifi now so you can surf the net to your heart's content. On my recent trip on Australia's Ghan train I particularly enjoyed being seated with different people for each meal.  I loved sharing food, wine and some great conversations with strangers.

• Take walking tours or day tours.  This is a great way to see the sights and meet people even if only briefly.  I usually do this when I am in a foreign city and have always found it rewarding.  A lot of tours include a meal so you can enjoy the pleasure of dining with others too.

 Photo by a friendly stranger on my
solo trip to the Czech Republic

• Get into your photography.  Being alone means you are not holding anyone else up if you want to take half an hour to get the perfect shot.  Ask people to take your photo and offer to take theirs.  Most people are only too pleased.    Once again, though, be streetwise and careful who you ask, you don't want that precious camera stolen.

• Be prepared to pay the single supplement if, like me, you do not want to share a room with a stranger.  Yes, it is expensive to travel alone but only for accommodation, everything else e.g. airfares, food and tours you pay for one.  Some travel companies will pair the budget conscious traveller up with another solo traveller.

• Get up early and have a large breakfast, then get out exploring. You don't have to wait for someone else to get organised for the day. Many hotels include breakfast in the tariff and  I find a big breakfast takes me through the day with just a light snack somewhere along the way. As an older solo traveller I have no interest in night clubbing so I make the most of the day and relax in my hotel room at night.  That said, I have wandered the streets of many Asian and European cities at night and never felt uncomfortable.  Just ensure you always stay on busy, crowded streets.

Train journeys are great for meeting people

• The old politician's trick, admire babies.  All parents love to have their children admired and this can often lead to a friendly conversation, especially on long train journeys.

• It is normal to feel lonely sometimes when you travel alone, occasionally I have felt  overwhelmed by loneliness so that's when  I concentrate on all the good things about solo travel. If my budget allows it I like to book a hotel room with a view, it can be totally absorbing watching street life below. I dash off a few e-mails, write my travel diary, watch local television and try to work out what they are saying, use up all the hotel room's shower wash in a big bubble bath, order room service and retire to bed happy and sleepy looking forward to the next day's adventures.

Finally...just try it.  We all have just one life and it is up to us to make the most of it.  If you don't enjoy solo travel don't do it again but I am sure you will find the advantages outweigh the disadvantages.  Enjoy!

And If you have any other hints please post them in the comments section.  I would love to have them!

Missmoo's Kitchen - The sweetest Little Coffeehouse in Auckland

There is nothing more nostalgic than the sight and smell of Grandma's baking and this is what Tracy Mulholland has perfectly replicated in Missmoo's Kitchen, her pretty coffeehouse in St Heliers, Auckland.

Tracy Mulholland aka Missmoo

Having had a successful 27 year career in banking Tracy decided it was time to follow her dream and open a coffeehouse.   Happy childhood memories of both her Nan's and her mother's baking was her inspiration and her plan was to bring back food 'how it used to be'.   She also had a vision of how the coffeehouse would look.  It was to have both a contemporary and a nostalgic feel. It was important to Tracy to have Royal Albert china as a reminder of her beloved Nan so she spent a few years collecting enough to stock the shop.  She told me that when customers walk in they are delighted to see the beautiful china lined up on shelves behind the counter and are eager to share their own memories of Royal Albert.  The china is a real draw card.

Beautiful china and old fashioned delights

 The second part of her vision was a large gilded mirror and, thirdly,  a glamorous toilet because experience had taught her most cafes toilets are not. Her vision has come together beautifully and, yes, the toilet is lovely, well worth a visit! There is also a good sized out door seating area surrounded by a white picket fence.  The cafe is on a quiet street, has a view over the surrounding suburb and a big plus is the ample free parking outside.

Glamour in the toilet and outdoor seating

Her mother's recipe book

All cooking and food preparation is done on site at Missmoo's with delicious offerings of delicate club sandwiches, the lightest of asparagus rolls, old fashioned savories, South Island cheese rolls, tasty pies and, of course, fresh from the oven, scones. The cakes and sweets are particularly tempting.  Who can go past a slice of fresh baked ginger crunch, an afghan, a coconut ice slice and many other treats?  For children there are the party favourites, chocolate crackles, rice bubble slice and  fairy bread to accompany their fluffy or hot chocolate. Glass jars on the counter offer, fudges and coconut ice. Tracy and her team bake the recipes from her mother's well thumbed, hand written, recipe book and the ever popular Edmonds Cookbook. There is not an over stuffed panini or hard to handle baguette in sight.






Brought up as the daughter of the publicans of Lake Ianthe Tavern in Westland, New Zealand, hospitality, cooking and baking for customers is in Tracy's blood.  She recalls that as a child she helped in the kitchen and by the time she was 9 she could change kegs on her own. She has always enjoyed both baking and sharing her baking with other people so this cafe is the culmination of what she calls 'following her heart'.  Tracy's fiance, Mark, and Mark's sister, Andrea, together with barista, Hollie, assist Tracy making it a very personal family business, even Tracy and Mark's 8 year old daughter, Georgia, is a dab hand at making the odd coffee and quick as lightning on the till.

Missmoo and her crew, Andrea, Hollie and daughter, Georgia

If you are wondering where the name Missmoo's Kitchen comes from it is from Tracy's surname Mulholland which was shortened to Mu as part of her ID in banking.  Before long everyone was calling her Miss Mu or Missmoo. Kitchen because it features good old fashioned baking from its very own kitchen.

I love this little coffee house and have been there many times, which is why I was inspired to write this post.  I love the whole package, the ambiance, the food, the friendliness of the staff, the convenient location.  I suggest you go and see for yourself.

Facebook:                Missmoo's Kitchen
Instagram:              missmooskitchen

Location:                   : 50 Waimarie Street St Heliers
Opening hours are   : 7am to 3.30pm Week days  
                                     8am to 2.30pm Weekends
Coffee Brand            : Allpress
Teas                           : Noble and Savage - a large range including herbals   

UPDATE: THIS WEEK ON JANUARY 14TH 2025 MISSMOOS CHANGED HANDS. THE NEW OWNERS WILL, OF COURSE, BRING THEIR OWN FLAVOUR AND STYLE TO THE CAFE BUT INTEND TO CARRY THE NAME AND TRACY'S LEGACY FORWARD   

New Zealand's Fjords Are Truly Spectacular

It is all too easy to get wrapped up in the excitement of overseas travel and forget about the beauty surrounding you in your own country.  Years ago the New Zealand tourism board had a campaign with the slogan "Don't leave town until you've seen the country", the idea was to encourage people to look around New Zealand before heading overseas.  It was, and is, good advice.  I have traveled around New Zealand extensively over the years but there is still plenty more for me to see and discover in this beautiful country of ours.

Ethereal beauty of early morning in Milford Sound

Hundreds of metres high this waterfall
looks small against towering cliffs

One of the things I was most excited about on my recent cruise around New Zealand was the opportunity to see parts of the country I had never seen before and to return to places I hadn't seen in a long while.  A day spent cruising the three magnificent fjords of Milford, Doubtful and Dusky Sounds, on the west coast of the South Island, was high on my excitement meter.  I had visited Milford Sound,  on a couple of previous occasions but had only ever seen it from the shore at the small village of Milford at the innermost point. And I had never been to Dusky Sound or Doubtful Sound so it was with  high anticipation that I was  up at the crack of dawn and out on deck in order not to miss any of the  spectacular scenery. Luckily we were blessed with a fine day, Milford Sound has annual rainfall of 6412mm and is one of the wettest places in the world. The full, informative, on board commentary, by a New Zealand park ranger which was piped around the decks throughout the sounds cruise was invaluable.

Amazing scenery in Milford Sound

Milford Sound - high peaks, snow capped mountains, tumbling waterfalls, magnificent

Milford Sound is New Zealand's most famous tourist destination.  Despite the fact that it is remote, and takes at a minimum a couple of hours to reach by road, it nevertheless receives around 1 million tourists a year.  Rudyard Kipling described it as "the 8th wonder of the world", high praise indeed, but well deserved.  Carved by glaciers during the ice age the 15 kilometre long inlet is surrounded by majestic peaks of sheer rock reaching up 1200 metres and more with the tallest, Elephant Peak, reaching up 1517 metres.  Waterfalls cascade down the cliffs, some from a height of 1000 metres. Snow capped peaks tower over the cliffs and the green, clear, dark and mysterious water. As with both Doubtful and Dusky Sounds, Milford Sound is home to seals, penguins, dolphins and whales. It is a stunningly beautiful, ancient and timeless landscape.

Doubtful Sound with a view towards one of the three arms

Doubtful Sound, at 40 kilometres long is the longest of the sounds, with three arms and a depth of 421 metres.  Captain Cook originally named it Doubtful Harbour because he was doubtful that he could successfully navigate it under sail.  In the end he decided not to but I'm pleased we were able to. 

I was in awe and wonder at nature's majesty

Finally we cruised into Dusky Sound.  At various times inhabited by Maori and Europeans and used by Captain Cook and whalers as a base, Dusky Sound contains several large islands, has prolific seal colonies and is inaccessible except by sea.  It is wild, isolated, beautiful and unchanged since Captain Cook first sailed in in 1770.

Dusky Sound

In total we cruised for 65 nautical miles through the sounds, that is equal to just over 120 kilometres.  We cruised at the gentle speed of 10 knots, equal to 18 kilometres per hour.  It was gentle and serene and there was plenty of time to take in the spectacular scenery.

Today the word "awesome" is bandied around as a fashionable expression of approval yet it is really the best word to use, in its true sense, when describing the breathtaking majesty and beauty of the New Zealand fjords.  The wonder of these soaring peaks, deep waters, cascading waterfalls  made me feel incredibly insignificant but also incredibly joyous.  This was without doubt a truly marvelous day, well worth waiting for!

Leaving Dusky Sound to continue around New Zealand

The Queen Mary 2 - Experience the Golden Age of Travel

In the 21st century, when life seems to hurtle by at break neck speed, it is an absolute joy to turn back the clock for a while and travel from A to B at a slower more leisurely pace.  My recent 9 day cruise on the Queen Mary 2 gave me just such an opportunity.

The Queen Mary 2 in Sydney at the start of my cruise

One of 3 ships in the Cunard fleet, and the only ocean liner, the Queen Mary 2 is an elegant and gracious lady. The difference between a liner and a  cruise ship is that liners were designed to take passengers from A to B rather than on leisurely cruises.  Therefore they are built strongly to cope with all types of weather conditions which means plenty of steel in the hull, a long tapered bow and a deep draft for stability. I have to say that even through quite large swells in the Tasman Sea the ship barely rocked. Liners can also travel at speed, if required, although today some of the modern cruise ships are right up there with liners in the speed stakes.

The crew don't dress like this anymore but the traditions are largely maintained

Your TV tells you what to wear each evening

Now owned by Carnival Cruises the Cunard line is their luxury brand which trades on its British traditions and requires a certain level of formality in dress, especially after 6pm when men must wear jackets and women cocktail wear.  If this is not your idea of fun, don't travel Cunard, but for those aboard it felt very special and enjoyable to dress for dinner each evening, putting on finery and  taking a step back to the golden age of travel. I particularly loved dressing up in ball gowns for the two balls held during my trip.  It had been many, many years since I had worn a ball gown and I'd forgotten what fun it was. Day wear aboard is less formal so tee shirts and shorts are acceptable and there is also a buffet for people who do not want to dress in the evening although they are excluded from the other public areas of the ship after 6pm.

A corner of the library.  There are plenty of seats for a quiet read with a sublime view of the sea.

Entertainment?  You are spoilt for choice.  The ship contains all the amenities you could wish for including a well equipped gym, a large fully stocked library, a cinema, a theatre for live shows and lectures, a ballroom, an art gallery, numerous bars including a champagne bar, a chocolate cafe and Churchill's cigar bar, several restaurants, shops, swimming pools, deck games, a golf simulator and even, unusually, a planetarium.  After 9 days aboard ship I am certain I didn't get to see all of it, only discovering a large previously unexplored area on my last day.  The daily programe offers a variety of lectures on a broad range of subjects.  I attended a few and found them absorbing. If you have over indulged at the restaurant you can take a stroll around the promenade deck...3 laps = 1.1 mile. One of Cunard's slogans was "Getting there is half the fun"  I would add 'at least' to that slogan.  I was never bored for a moment. For me this trip was more about the ship than the destinations, although they were great too.

Balls on board are very popular...a great excuse to dress up.

In 2016 the ship received a 90 million pound upgrade and it is beautiful.  Decorated in the art deco style, which I love, the public areas are wide, spacious and grand, glowing under glittering chandeliers. I also enjoyed the galleries of historic photos relating to the Cunard line found in may different places around the ship. There were 2500 passengers and 1200 crew on our trip but at no time did it feel crowded.  It was easy to find a quiet corner to read or a peaceful lounge to sit in.  I often wondered where everybody was.

left: the Britannia Restaurant where we dined each night

Right: The Grand Lobby














Left: One of many art deco statues around the ship

Right: a spacious lobby outside a cafe and bar. The double doors at the end lead to the Britannia Restaurant

Yours truly enjoying afternoon tea in the ballroom

I have heard criticism of Cunard that all the travelers are in the older age bracket but there were plenty of younger people on board and a few well behaved children, the ship also provides a kids club. Believe it or not there is also a pets area, which is separate from the passenger area, where passengers pets are exercised and cared for by crew. There were no pets aboard on our trip.

My group of nine was sitting in a bar on our last evening when someone asked the question "Did you enjoy the cruise and do you have any complaints" Without exception all agreed that they had loved the cruise, the food and entertainment were excellent, the ship was beautiful  and the only complaint anyone could think of, and which was echoed by most, was the cost of drinks on board....A glass of wine in a bar or with dinner cost $16US!  Needless to say nobody over indulged! So be prepared for expensive drinks when on the Queen Mary 2 but be like our group and enjoy every minute of the experience.

A tip: If you don't like late nights ask for the early sitting (6.30pm) in the restaurant.  We were happy with the late sitting, (8.30pm), because we were keen to be on deck as the ship left each port but it made for very late nights as we attended the shows after dinner.