The Mayan Ruins of Copan, Honduras

Pyramid tomb of Rulers

Close to the border of Guatemala lies the small Honduran town of Copan and we were there to visit the nearby ruins of a Mayan city dating back as far as the 4th century. Although the valley of Copan has been populated for at least four thousand years the Mayan dynastic civilisation there is recorded as beginning in the year 426 AD and running until 822 AD when it gradually declined.  

The decline was largely due to a brutal defeat by the army of a neighbouring state which captured and beheaded the last dynastic ruler of Copan, however other factors included overcrowding, drought, depleted crops and continuing military conflicts. Most of the residents moved out into the surrounding valleys to continue a life of farming.

 Copan Ruins is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site and provides an amazing insight into a long gone culture.

A stone altar decorated with images of Mayan rulers

Scarlet Macaw
( Photo by Thomas Bauer)

Entry to the ruins was along a very pretty forested walk where the bright red flashes of Honduras' national bird, the Scarlet Macaw, lit up the foliage. This was my first time visiting a Mayan site so I was keen to learn as much as I could.  We were led by a knowledgeable and articulate guide who explained the heirarchical structure of Mayan society and explained the intricate details in many of the altars and stelae (upright stone slabs depicting the rulers of Copan). Scholars, historians and anthropologists have been able to piece together much of the social construct of the Mayan society, painstakingly deciphering heiroglyphics and the many ornate carvings which are still in remarkable condition after 1200 years of weather and neglect.  In all there were 16 dynastic rulers of Copan, the 17th was in line but by then the society had collapsed so he never made it.  There is a poignant stelae which was meant to hold his depiction but was left uncarved.

Our guide gave excellent explanations of who and what the carvings represented

We spent three hours walking through the 54 acre site looking at the tombs of rulers, the carvings, the impressive heiroglyphic staircase and even a ball court where some sort of sport was played. I found it all very interesting and was impressed with how the site is being cared for and maintained but the heat of the day was blistering and by the end of the tour we were lurching from tree to tree for shade.  It was time for a respite.

No, I didn't drive it!

Back in the village we piled into small tuk tuks and went on a somewhat hair raising trip at full speed over potholed and gravelly roads to the San Lucas Hacienda.  I was hanging on for dear life! There we had cool drinks and lunch under shady trees while overlooking the lush valley and river below.

  

Our hotel was at the top of a very steep hill so every time we walked down to the delightful village of Copan we had a stiff hike back up again.  As we were walking up the hill in the late afternoon we heard a band practising drumming so we went to investigate. It was a school group led by a very enthusiastic teacher.  We were welcomed in and It was fun and entertaining to watch them. The next evening as we were leaving dinner in town we came across the reason for their practise.  Their school was celebrating an anniversary and the band, dressed very smartly in band uniforms, was performing.  We stood and watched them and other performances, enjoying the feeling of being part of the local crowd.

I can't end this post without mentioning the lovely San Rafael Cafe near the town square.  We went there twice and spent a very pleasant time getting to know each other and talking about travel. My group's various adventures were inspiring!

NOTE: I am using photos taken by my fellow travellers in some of these posts with their permission.