Cape Tribulation, Queensland, Australia

 It's an intriguing name, isn't it? Why would a gloriously pristine beach bordered by ancient rain forest have such a depressing sort of name?  Well the answer is that it was on a reef just beyond the beach that Captain James Cook's ship, HM Endeavour, ran aground on a coral reef in 1770 and began to take in water. The ship was in danger of sinking but with remarkable ingenuity the hole was plugged sufficiently for the ship to limp up the coast to a safer  beaching where it could be repaired properly. The damage to the ship was substantial causing Cook to state that this was where all his trials and tribulations began. That history was enough for me to want to visit the Cape, not only am I an enthusiast for the voyages of James Cook but it sounded so enticing,  and despite having been to Queensland on several occasions I had never been up the coast that far. 

Cape Tribulation

It is around a two hour drive (110ks or 68 miles) from Port Douglas where I was staying recently so I booked myself  onto a day tour  which included a walk in the Daintree rain forest, a cruise on the crocodile infested Daintree River and a visit to the beautiful Mossman Gorge.  I will write about them in a future blog.

Where the rain forest meets the sea

Cape Tribulation is the nearest mainland point to the world heritage Great Barrier Reef.  It is also where the rain forest comes right down to the shore.  It is wonderfully isolated, (there are no buildings on the beach), with clean pure air and silence, there is no hustle and bustle and no pollution.  Surrounded by hills the climate is equatorial with heavy rainfall and warm humid temperatures making it ideal for growing tropical fruit which a few hardy souls (the total population is only about 120)  do in small clearings back in the forest.  The area has been home to the Kuku Yalanji people for 50,000 years and has little changed in all that time.  It felt like an enormous privilige to be there and to enjoy its beauty and solitude.  It is very hard to find such ancient unspoilt places in the modern world which still look as they did back in the time of the dinosaurs. 

Discussing the forest and the history of the area over morning tea

Our small tour coach pulled into a tiny clearing well back from the beach and the 8 of us on the tour went for a walk along the golden arc of the bay.  The white sand is as fine as icing sugar and with our footsteps being the only ones on the beach it was quite a moving sensation of stepping way back in time. While we were relishing our walk our guide was setting up a substantial morning tea of fresh tropical fruit, hot drinks and muffins at a picnic area hidden back in the forest. There are clean, well maintained toilets not far from the picnic area, also hidden from view from the beach.  I am so pleased I visited Cape Tribulation, it has long been on my 'to do' list and was as beautiful, remote and unspoilt as I had hoped it would be.