Martinborough, New Zealand - a wine lover's dream destination

In the lower west of New Zealand's North Island and a short drive south from Greytown (see my previous post) is the small village of Martinborough.  Although tiny, with a population of less than 2000, this lively community is well worth a visit.  Its greatest drawcard is the many fine wineries, specialising in pinot noir, dotted around the surrounding countryside.  Martinborough enjoys a warm micro climate with hills to the east and west and dry riverbeds threaded through the area offering the perfect soil for growing grapes.  There are around 30 wineries in Martinborough.  They are mostly family owned and within walking distance of the village making it the perfect place for a wine lovers holiday.

A relaxing afternoon at  Colombo Winery, Martinborough

This enthusiastic community makes the most of its wineries, staging a number of annual events to draw in the crowds.  One of the most popular is the Round the Vines, a 10k or 20k walk/run around the vineyards. It is a fun event where many people dress up and enjoy the live music and wine tasting at stations along the way. Sounds like a great way to spend a day, sadly I have never participated... maybe one day! Martinborough also hosts a classic car event in late January and the very popular Toast Martinborough Wine Festival in November.

Martinborough Hotel

Packed with colonial charm, this delightful village was founded in 1879 by John Martin who named it after himself, laying the streets radiating from the village square  in the pattern of the Union Jack and naming them after places he had visited.  Amongst a number of quaint buildings surrounding the square  the most prominent and notable is the Martinborough Hotel.  Built in 1882 it was originally a hostelry for wealthy travelers from isolated sheep stations, today it is usually busy with travelers from all over the world at least it was until covid struck! I'm sure it will be again.

The leafy square, the heart of the village (photo by Lanma726)

It doesn't take long to wander the shops however they are well worth a  browse.  Probably the most well know of them all is Martinborough Wine Merchants which sells not only wine but a vast array of locally produced food products.  I guarantee you won't leave without buying something tantalising to take home.  There are also a number of good options for dining including the popular Cafe Medici and the In The Neighbourhood Coffee House where we had breakfast. We were astonished by its array of cabinet food, all looking delicious and making decisions difficult. I'd definitely go back there, it is always a testament to a cafe when there is a long queue at the counter.

There is nothing better than spending an afternoon with good friends and family at a winery, enjoying good wine, conversation and platters of meats, cheeses, olives and hot pizzas and that was how I rounded out my visit to Martinborough. It had been a while since I'd been there, it won't be so long until the next time.

For more information: www.wairarapanz.com

Greytown, New Zealand - an alluring Victorian village

 80 Kilometres North East of Wellington and on the other side of the spectacular Rimutaka Ranges, lies the picturesque and charming village of Greytown, population 2300.  Greytown has long been a favourite get away destination for Wellingtonians and today more and more people are moving from the city to retire there, and who can blame them?

This tiny shop was
originally
a boot maker's 

Established in 1854 Greytown was New Zealand's first planned inland town. Today it is one of the prettiest towns in the North Island winning the title of "Most Beautiful Small Town in New Zealand" in 2017. The early settlers who moved to Greytown looking for affordable plots of land to farm would marvel at the trendy bars, cafes, and designer stores now lining the main street, the settlers' great legacy being the wide streets and the number of Victorian heritage buildings still in use today. It is these heritage buildings, so lovingly preserved and cared for, the tree lined streets, the beautiful surrounding countryside, with its wineries, olive groves, farms and rivers which make Greytown irresistible.

                            

Left and right: The Borough Council Building (1892) is now a bicycle shop

Below: Heritage buildings on Main Street. On the left is the former blacksmith's home parts of which date from 1861.  It is thought to be the oldest remaining structure in Greytown. On the right, the former Bank of New Zealand (1875)

I was fortunate enough to spend a few days in Greytown recently to attend my nephew's wedding. It had been a few years since I had been there and I was excited to be going back, I wasn't disappointed. It is always a pleasure to wander Main Street, picking and poking in the various stores, and reading the plaques on many buildings detailing their history.  Greytown must have more designer stores than any other town its size, it is fun to browse them but my favourite thing to do is to get up early in the morning and walk the quiet back streets admiring the homesteads with their beautiful gardens, rambling roses and cherry blossoms. 

Above, left and right: Some of the pretty houses and cottages.  The cottage on the right was originally a shop

 

For a real step back in time go to Cobblestones Museum, which is laid out as an early settlers village with 14 heritage buildings to visit.  Feel like a sweet treat? Then go to Schoc Chocolate shop where you can buy an astonishing array of delicious, if rather pricey, chocolate and who can resist sitting with friends at the beautiful White Swan Hotel in the heart of town with a glass of wine, good conversation and a passing parade of strollers?  There are plenty of dining options and  I highly recommend the Aroma India Restaurant on Main Street where we agreed we had one of our best ever Indian meals at only $21 a head.

The White Swan Hotel, originally a railway workshop, transported over the steep and winding Rimutakas in 6 pieces

The iconic Eucalyptus

If you are a lover of trees Greytown even has a Heritage Tree Trail (you can pick up a map for this at the Information Centre). The town boasts many grand and beautiful trees but the jewel in the tree crown is the huge Eucalyptus on Main Street which was transported by wheelbarrow all the way from Wellington and planted in 1856. Also worth a visit is the Soldiers Memorial Park for a leisurely walk along the pretty, shady lime tree avenue.

I loved my stay in Greytown and know I won't leave it so long to visit next time. If you are in Wellington I suggest you take a day out and visit Greytown.  You will be very pleased you did. While there pick up an Historic Greytown map at the information centre.  It denotes 37 points of interest, a surprisingly large number for such a small town.

 www.greytownheritagetrust.com   www.cobblestonesmuseum.org.nz     www.whiteswan.co.nz    www.schoc.co.nz