For yonder breaks a new and glorious morn'
Fall on your knees, oh, hear the Angels' voices
Oh, night divine, oh, night when Christ was born
Oh, night divine, oh, night, oh night divine
Welcome to my blog for solo travelers, or any travelers really. It includes ideas for adventures, helpful travel hints and even the occasional recipe. The world is a beautiful place and I believe in making the most of it. I hope you do too and that you enjoy my stories. I am also on Facebook and Instagram, hope to see you there!
In the lower west of New Zealand's North Island and a short drive south from Greytown (see my previous post) is the small village of Martinborough. Although tiny, with a population of less than 2000, this lively community is well worth a visit. Its greatest drawcard is the many fine wineries, specialising in pinot noir, dotted around the surrounding countryside. Martinborough enjoys a warm micro climate with hills to the east and west and dry riverbeds threaded through the area offering the perfect soil for growing grapes. There are around 30 wineries in Martinborough. They are mostly family owned and within walking distance of the village making it the perfect place for a wine lovers holiday.
A relaxing afternoon at Colombo Winery, Martinborough |
This enthusiastic community makes the most of its wineries, staging a number of annual events to draw in the crowds. One of the most popular is the Round the Vines, a 10k or 20k walk/run around the vineyards. It is a fun event where many people dress up and enjoy the live music and wine tasting at stations along the way. Sounds like a great way to spend a day, sadly I have never participated... maybe one day! Martinborough also hosts a classic car event in late January and the very popular Toast Martinborough Wine Festival in November.
Martinborough Hotel |
Packed with colonial charm, this delightful village was founded in 1879 by John Martin who named it after himself, laying the streets radiating from the village square in the pattern of the Union Jack and naming them after places he had visited. Amongst a number of quaint buildings surrounding the square the most prominent and notable is the Martinborough Hotel. Built in 1882 it was originally a hostelry for wealthy travelers from isolated sheep stations, today it is usually busy with travelers from all over the world at least it was until covid struck! I'm sure it will be again.
The leafy square, the heart of the village (photo by Lanma726) |
It doesn't take long to wander the shops however they are well worth a browse. Probably the most well know of them all is Martinborough Wine Merchants which sells not only wine but a vast array of locally produced food products. I guarantee you won't leave without buying something tantalising to take home. There are also a number of good options for dining including the popular Cafe Medici and the In The Neighbourhood Coffee House where we had breakfast. We were astonished by its array of cabinet food, all looking delicious and making decisions difficult. I'd definitely go back there, it is always a testament to a cafe when there is a long queue at the counter.
80 Kilometres North East of Wellington and on the other side of the spectacular Rimutaka Ranges, lies the picturesque and charming village of Greytown, population 2300. Greytown has long been a favourite get away destination for Wellingtonians and today more and more people are moving from the city to retire there, and who can blame them?
This tiny shop was originally a boot maker's |
Below: Heritage buildings on Main Street. On the left is the former blacksmith's home parts of which date from 1861. It is thought to be the oldest remaining structure in Greytown. On the right, the former Bank of New Zealand (1875)
Above, left and right: Some of the pretty houses and cottages. The cottage on the right was originally a shop
For a real step back in time go to Cobblestones Museum, which is laid out as an early settlers village with 14 heritage buildings to visit. Feel like a sweet treat? Then go to Schoc Chocolate shop where you can buy an astonishing array of delicious, if rather pricey, chocolate and who can resist sitting with friends at the beautiful White Swan Hotel in the heart of town with a glass of wine, good conversation and a passing parade of strollers? There are plenty of dining options and I highly recommend the Aroma India Restaurant on Main Street where we agreed we had one of our best ever Indian meals at only $21 a head.
The White Swan Hotel, originally a railway workshop, transported over the steep and winding Rimutakas in 6 pieces |
The iconic Eucalyptus |
I loved my stay in Greytown and know I won't leave it so long to visit next time. If you are in Wellington I suggest you take a day out and visit Greytown. You will be very pleased you did. While there pick up an Historic Greytown map at the information centre. It denotes 37 points of interest, a surprisingly large number for such a small town.
www.greytownheritagetrust.com www.cobblestonesmuseum.org.nz www.whiteswan.co.nz www.schoc.co.nz
(This is another extract from my diary of the month long camping trip a friend and I took, traveling through Namibia, Botswana and Zambia. It was intrepid, exciting and although we were hot, tired and dirty, most of the time, it was wonderful and certainly unforgettable)
You know you're in the wilderness when a hyena spends the night whooping and prowling around your camp site. Something is walking up and down outside our tent. It is either a hyena or a black backed jackal but we are not keen to investigate. We can also hear lions and elephants near by so, all in all, not much sleep tonight. A 5.30am breakfast, truck packed and we are off on safari at 7.30am. Shortly after leaving camp we pass a broken down safari truck. Three men are working on it and tell us they don't need our help so we sail past feeling smug. You know the saying -"pride comes before a fall"!
A couple of kilometres down the road our driver, Ike, notices problems with our truck. Water is gushing from the radiator. He fills a jerry can from a nearby water hole to top it up but it still gushes out. The men in our group are in their element and gather round to inspect the radiator only to find it has a huge hole in it, pierced, it seems, by a stick. Other safari trucks stop to offer help so that at one point there are 10 men gathered around but there is nothing they can do, we need a new radiator. Ike radios for help from Maun, the nearest town, 3 hours away, so we settle in for a long wait.
We spend the whole day sitting in the game reserve with wild animals not far away, fortunately for us they keep their distance. I don't know what we will do if lions decide we look tasty, thankfully they don't come near. We feel quite proud of ourselves - who would have thought we could be so brave and intrepid?
Our new radiator finally arrives 7 hours after we broke down and mechanics quickly install it, then we can finally set off for our next camp site 5 and a half hours away. We make a stop to collect great piles of firewood for cooking which means we spend the long trip with the wood under our feet and our knees up to our chins.
Ike spots some cheetahs in the distance so we bounce and rattle at speed across the countryside to view them. Two of these magnificent animals are resting on a mound. They are gorgeous with their distinctive facial markings, muscular, sinewy bodies and plush coats. We get within 5 metres of them and they look at us warily. Cheetahs are not known to attack humans but I still feel nervous when they stand up and pace around our open sided truck.
It is a very long trip to our next campsite but I don't mind. I thoroughly enjoy looking out over the burnished countryside as the sun sets and, as night falls, passing through tiny lantern lit villages where locals call out and wave to us. It is magical looking up at the millions of stars in the night sky, without city light pollution the African night skies are sensational.
Left: Mfana cooking our dinner over the fire
Nestled on the lower slopes of the lush, verdant and often mist clad Mt Te Aroha (952 metres) the village of the same name looks out over flat farmland to the west. It is a charming place full of character, heritage buildings and another place on my "never visited before" list.
Te Aroha, with a population of around 4000, is blessed with hot, natural thermal pools, an excellent heritage walk, glorious bush tracks and mountain bike trails on the slopes of the mountain and a quiet, gentle pace of life. It is fair to say I kind of fell in love with the town, aptly, since Te Aroha means "the loved one" in Maori.
My first afternoon I ventured up some of the walking trails on the mountain, first pausing to enjoy the Mokena soda geyser doing its thing. It is said to be the only natural soda water geyser in the world.
I do love New Zealand's native bush, it is one of my happy places. (Note:what we call bush in New Zealand is known as woods or forests in other countries) We are very fortunate to have no predators, no snakes, no wild animals etc so can walk in the bush without fear. I was on the hunt for the Tutumangaeo Waterfall zigzagging along various trails before I found it. You must know by now I love waterfalls and running water and rapids and streams, you get the picture, anyway the falls at Te Aroha were worth the climb up the lower slopes with the added bonus that close by is a lookout with a magnificent view over the town and the surrounding countryside.
Below: Some of the buildings on the Heritage Trail
The jewel in Te Aroha's crown has to be the wonderful Edwardian domain, where the original buildings from the 1880s,Te Aroha's glory days as an Edwardian spa town, have been lovingly preserved and are still used for various purposes, including housing the museum. It is an excellent museum, well worth a visit. I enjoyed whiling away some time there, learning about the town's history, including its role during the gold rush of the late 1800s and then its development as a spa. During its hey day thousands visited to bathe in the soothing waters.
One of the Edwardian buildings, now housing the museum |
Still a popular spa visitors have a choice of visiting the Spa or the public pools. If I have one criticism of Te Aroha it is that the much vaunted Spa does not cater for single people. It has been designed to contain hot tubs for two and due to health and safety laws a person is not permitted to be alone in a tub. This rules out solo travelers like myself. Interestingly I got into conversation with two other solo travelers who also expressed their deep disappointment. In this day and age when many people travel solo the Spa is missing a trick. They need to develop a larger pool which can take groups to cater for singles. The public pools are close by but while I was there they were swarming with excited children. Disappointed I consoled myself with coffee and cake at the nearby and charming Domain Cottage Cafe where a group of local women were enjoying a knit and natter get together. They were a happy, friendly lot.
I am definitely going to go back to Te Aroha. There was something about the town that really appealed to me. I loved the heritage, the bush and the way the town nestled against the mountain, not to mention the well cared for community garden and the brightly painted free library cupboard, the river and the friendliness of the locals. Te Aroha, indeed.
The Nottingham Castle as it was in 1877. See how it looks today in photo below |
Mabel the mega cow is 6.3 metres (21Ft 3ins) high |
Cow in police uniform at the police station. Note the red and blue horns (lights) Below a small selection of the 60 cows dotted around town |
Wet but happy! |