The Stunning Te Waihou Walkway and Blue Springs - Putaruru, New Zealand

 New Zealand is crammed full of beautiful places but despite having lived here all my life I find there are always more to discover.  I had long planned to walk along the Te Waihou River to visit the Blue Springs but never quite got around to it.  As luck would have it it was a planned hike with the Auckland Global Trekkers hiking group, which I have joined  recently, and was an opportunity I couldn't let pass by.

At the start of the walk from White's Rd end.

This sublime riverside walk is located in the rolling green farmlands of the South Waikato between the towns of Tirau and Putaruru and about a two hour drive from Auckland. You can enter the walk from either end, the Leslie Rd entrance is a shorter walk, taking about 15 minutes to reach the spring. It is suitable for wheel chairs and baby buggies. Our group of 42 was keen to follow the length of the trail so entered from Whites Rd to walk the 9.4 kilometres return.  It is not particularly challenging although there were a few muddy patches, which will have dried up by summer, and a couple of steep staircases to negotiate, but all in all not arduous. Recent work on the track has provided boardwalks and new steps with handrails.

From the entrance you pass grazing cows which fix you with a quizzical gaze as you pass. The path then leads through wetlands along the river banks.  The view of emerald green water plants under the crystal clear flowing water, backed by limestone cliffs, is stunning. The water, fed by the Blue  Spring, flows at the rate of 9240 gallons a minute and maintains a constant temperature of 11 degrees all year round.  From it's  source on the Mamaku Plateau it takes 100 years to filter through limestone  before producing water said to be amongst the purest in the world and which is used for around 70% of the bottled water sold in New Zealand.

Spectacular -  plants under crystalline water and backed by basalt cliffs

As the track rises you are soon walking through lush native bush and past small bubbling waterfalls, (spot the tiny waterwheel). The ambiance  is calm, restful, the only sounds are the flowing water and bird song, balm for the soul.  After a while you come to the Blue Spring bubbling up from deep below. It is aptly named due to its glorious aquamarine colour. 

The Blue Spring - 100 year old water bubbling up from below the earth

We stopped at a rest area just beyond the spring for a lunch break and chat before heading back along the track to the Whites Rd carpark. It was a pleasure to enjoy the scenery a second time and we spotted things we had missed on our first walk through.

Later we took a short walk along the Waikato River in the town of Cambridge.  It was pretty but very hard for it to compete with the Te Waihou walk.

The Waikato River

 I loved this hike. It was a fantastic   day out with a great group of people   in a stunningly beautiful location. To   walk it you require only a moderate   level of fitness and there is   the option of taking the shorter   route  for the less fit. 

On the Te Waihou walkway

Note:  If you need to use bathrooms use the ones at either end of the track.  The one within the track was virtually unusable, a shame because the maintenance of the track was exceptional but sadly the toilet seemed to have been overlooked.

The Daintree River, Rain Forest and Mossman Gorge, Queensland, Australia

 To enter the Daintree Forest you first cross the Daintree River on a car ferry.  It is an apt way to enter this incredible prehistoric world, home to the Kuku Yalanji people for at least 60,000 years.  The Daintree is reputed to be the oldest rain forest on earth at approximately 135 million years, millions of years older than the Amazon rain forest.  It is also home to a large number of unique, plant, animal and insect species found nowhere else in the world.  Listed as a treasure under the UNESCO World Heritage Site it is a fascinating place. Our small group was taken for a walk through the forest with our guide pointing out some of the unique plants and insects along the way. The plants are diverse and the majority are amongst the oldest  in the world.  Many are poisonous or very spiky.  We were shown a particular tree that produces strychnine and were warned not to touch it.  We didn't! The forest is shady and although it can be very humid the temperature was pleasant for our visit.  One thing I did notice was the absence of bird song or any earthy bushlike aroma.  Our guide told us that the trees high above would be full of birds but they have learned to call only when necessary.  

Boardwalks protect the roots of the lush, tropical vegetation.

Primeval mud.  You can really imagine dinosuurs walking here

The one bird we were hoping to spot was the cassowary, the large flightless bird native to New Guinea, North Australia and some surrounding islands.  They are the third largest bird on earth growing to 6ft tall and can weigh more that 70 kilos. They are vital to the life and health of the forest as they disperse over 100 species of plant seeds in their droppings.  Shy by nature they can become very dangerous and aggressive if cornered or if their nests are approached, lashing out with large, lethal claws. Apparently they, and some lizards, are the closest living things to the dinosaurs which would once have roamed this forest. We had eagerly peered into the trees hoping to spot one and were just about to give up and leave the forest when suddenly a male and his chick walked right across the path in front of us.  We were thrilled, watching as the adult led his chick down to the stream to drink.  Our guide was as excited as we were, he said in all his years guiding he had never seen cassowaries drink from a stream.

You can just see the feathers of the chick at lower left of the male. It is the males who look after the young

 Lots of ohs and ahs and photos and then, well satisfied, it was time for us to go for a cruise on the Daintree River for a bit of crocodile spotting. We were in luck, right at the start of out cruise we spotted a croc sunning itself on the river bank, actually it was the only one we saw on the hour long cruise up and down the river. Nevertheless we did see some beautiful birdlife including the graceful  white heron. It was a pleasant restful cruise through the rain forest with us all fervently hoping we didn't end up in the river full of crocodiles.

We all enjoyed a tasty fish lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Mossman River, and a quick stop at Daintree Ice Cream Company for a small tasting pot of exotically flavoured ice cream. 

Flavours were wattle seed, sapote and mango

Then to our final stop for the day, Mossman Gorge.  Such a beautiful place and a great way to end a special day. The gorge was glowing in the afternoon sun which was bouncing off the rocks and forested slopes and reflecting in the pristine waters of the river. We took a short stroll along the pretty forested river bank and spent some time mesmerised by the flowing water before reboarding our bus and heading back on the long drive to Port Douglas. 

This trip was a great experience, I would recommend it to anyone who loves nature, it had been on my "must go to" list for a long time.  It was  a great privilege to walk through such ancient forest, pretty much unchanged for millions of years.

Note: This was a small group tour of only 8 people plus the guide. We left from and returned to Port Douglas approximately 68kms each way.

Cape Tribulation, Queensland, Australia

 It's an intriguing name, isn't it? Why would a gloriously pristine beach bordered by ancient rain forest have such a depressing sort of name?  Well the answer is that it was on a reef just beyond the beach that Captain James Cook's ship, HM Endeavour, ran aground on a coral reef in 1770 and began to take in water. The ship was in danger of sinking but with remarkable ingenuity the hole was plugged sufficiently for the ship to limp up the coast to a safer  beaching where it could be repaired properly. The damage to the ship was substantial causing Cook to state that this was where all his trials and tribulations began. That history was enough for me to want to visit the Cape, not only am I an enthusiast for the voyages of James Cook but it sounded so enticing,  and despite having been to Queensland on several occasions I had never been up the coast that far. 

Cape Tribulation

It is around a two hour drive (110ks or 68 miles) from Port Douglas where I was staying recently so I booked myself  onto a day tour  which included a walk in the Daintree rain forest, a cruise on the crocodile infested Daintree River and a visit to the beautiful Mossman Gorge.  I will write about them in a future blog.

Where the rain forest meets the sea

Cape Tribulation is the nearest mainland point to the world heritage Great Barrier Reef.  It is also where the rain forest comes right down to the shore.  It is wonderfully isolated, (there are no buildings on the beach), with clean pure air and silence, there is no hustle and bustle and no pollution.  Surrounded by hills the climate is equatorial with heavy rainfall and warm humid temperatures making it ideal for growing tropical fruit which a few hardy souls (the total population is only about 120)  do in small clearings back in the forest.  The area has been home to the Kuku Yalanji people for 50,000 years and has little changed in all that time.  It felt like an enormous privilige to be there and to enjoy its beauty and solitude.  It is very hard to find such ancient unspoilt places in the modern world which still look as they did back in the time of the dinosaurs. 

Discussing the forest and the history of the area over morning tea

Our small tour coach pulled into a tiny clearing well back from the beach and the 8 of us on the tour went for a walk along the golden arc of the bay.  The white sand is as fine as icing sugar and with our footsteps being the only ones on the beach it was quite a moving sensation of stepping way back in time. While we were relishing our walk our guide was setting up a substantial morning tea of fresh tropical fruit, hot drinks and muffins at a picnic area hidden back in the forest. There are clean, well maintained toilets not far from the picnic area, also hidden from view from the beach.  I am so pleased I visited Cape Tribulation, it has long been on my 'to do' list and was as beautiful, remote and unspoilt as I had hoped it would be.

DIVA - a sublime look at Divas through the ages

Ingrid Bergman"s costume forJoan of Arc 

1948. Very short, considered daring at the time

 In the 19th century the word Diva was used to describe hugely gifted female opera singers.  The word Diva comes from the Latin for goddess and that was how many saw outstanding opera singers back then.  They were powerful, creative women at a time when women were striving for equality, however, they also had their detractors, those who thought they were becoming too powerful, too big for their boots and not sticking to the acceptable social mores of the time.  Gradually the term came to include actresses like Sarah Bernhardt who was one of the first stars to cultivate the idea of "celebrity". The word Diva has evolved through time to include both genders, and all types of performers such as rock stars and dancers, particularly those who have pushed the boundaries and have used their status to comment on societal issues like equality and inclusion. 

Vivien Leigh's costume from
 the play Duel of Angels 1958

It was really with the development of talking movies that actresses who
were still considered inferior to men took on the battle for equality. Unfortunately they then became labeled as difficult or demanding and the term Diva took on a negative conotation.  Today that negativity can still be associated with a difficult or demanding star but it has also become a term of admiration for stars who are able to cross boundaries, reinvent themselves and use technology, skill and talent to create spectacular shows. 

Quote from Bette Davis.  Thankfully those days are long gone.

The latest exhibition, DIVA, at the Auckland War Memorial Museum, follows this evolution from its earliest days until the present, it showcases an amazing collection of costumes (courtesy of the V & A Museum, London) combined with plenty of written information to accompany them.  Each visitor is supplied with a headset which plays the appropriate music at each display.  

Elton' John's flamboyant 50th birthday outfit inspired by the court fashions of Louis XIV. The galleon on his wig was mechanised and sent out puffs of smoke. The costume was so large and heavy John had to be transported to his party on a furniture truck.

Lady Gaga's Valentino gown from the Golden Globe awards 2019
Bjork's 2021 gown and mask in the background

Tina Turner's Flame Dress designed by Bob Mackie 1977

One of Prince's stage costumes

A few of Cher's spectacular, flamboyant costumes, real Diva attire.

It is a sublimely curated, educational and exciting exhibition.  The mind boggles when looking at Elton John's 50th birthday outfit or Cher's enormous head dress. You ask yourself "How on earth did they move in them", they are certainly outfits befitting Divas. I have only shown a few of the outfits here, there are many, many more. If you get the chance and certainly if you live in Auckland this is a "must see" exhbition.  It's fabulous.

Secret Waterfall Cafe and Garden - South Auckland

 In the small rural village of Patumahoe, around 60 kilometres and 50 minutes from downtown Auckland, is the Secret Waterfall Cafe and Garden.  Formerly  Wright's Watergarden, well known for its 16 foot (5 metres) high waterfall and 30 water lily ponds, it was sold a few years ago and renamed.  I have a love of waterlilies so had often thought of visiting but never managed to get there. Last Sunday was the day I finally made it.  It is an easy drive down the southern motorway and then a pleasant trip through rolling countryside to find the gardens located down a narrow country lane. First things first, though, I hadn't had breakfast so decided to have a brunch in the cafe before wandering the gardens.  The cafe is large and absolutely  spotless and my breakfast was very reasonably priced and delicious.  I sat inside in one of the two large interior rooms but there is also plenty of outdoor seating. 

Then it was time for a stroll, I was so looking forward to this. There is a charge of between 5 and 8 dollars to enter the gardens which meander over 7 acres and are on multiple levels.  The rambling paths wind around lily ponds and on the highest level lead you to the top of the waterfall.  Flowing water is always fun to watch, but I knew the best view of the waterfall would be from the bottom. Although paths lead off in all directions through the bush it is impossible to get lost as they wind back on each other. Part way down the hill is a wedding lawn, well maintained and lush in the morning sun. 

 And then the piece de resistance, the Mauku Waterfall, gushing in torrents after the recent rain, absolutely mesmerising.  I stood at the foot for quite some time as it roared down the cliff face sparking rainbows and tumbling over rocks to the stream below, spraying me with mist on its journey. Eventually I dragged myself away and wandered back to the top of the gardens first passing a small waterwheel feeding the lily ponds below.

I enjoyed the Japanese influences in the garden - the Japanese style bridge the red pavilion and the zigzag walk across the ponds. In Japan zigzag walks are metaphors for life's crooked journey. 

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the gardens.  I had seen only two other people so pretty much had them to myself.  It is truly a tranquil oasis to visit.  Like so many attractions the gardens were a victim of covid and New Zealand's brutal lock down regime, so that they were closed for quite some time and with no income maintenance fell back.  There are areas, especially some of the wooden features, that need a bit of sprucing up or renovating and I would remove the unnecessary and tired statury,  especially at the entrance, but these are minor quibbles. All in all it looked very natural and I thoroughly enjoyed my wander. The waterlily ponds covered in lilies and lotus must be absolutely stunning when they are in bloom, unfortunately I went at the wrong time of year.  I'll just have to go back in summer and that will be no hardship.

Exploring around Auckland - Point View Reserve, East Auckland

 I often wake up on a Sunday morning with the idea of exploring somewhere new around my city. So it was that last Sunday I did a google search and found a walk I had never done before. Just 40 minutes from my home the semi rural Point View  Reserve was just what I was looking for.

A few kilometres down Point View Drive, East Auckland, I pulled into the carpark at the start of the walk to be greeted with stunning, panoramic, 360 degree views over Auckland and the countryside.

Looking over Whitford a complete contrast from the urban views in the opposite direction

After taking photos and drinking in the views I started down the gravel driveway at the start of the Piwakawaka Track which I found led to a large water resevoir.  (Piwakawaka is the Maori name for the delightful little Fantail bird). I became aware that there was absolute silence, apart from the occasional bird call and an aeroplane taking off from the nearby airport - no traffic noise, no machinery noise, a rare and delightful find in or close to a city,

View out across suburbia to the Manukau Heads

Downtown Auckland, 23 kilometres away.

 After circling the resevoir the track pops out into the open and to the left I took the Koura bush clad track which leads down to a stream.  (Koura is the Maori name for fresh water crayfish)  As I'm a sucker for flowing water I was keen to take this track but I  hadn't expected the endless flights of stairs that take walkers right down into the valley. The stairs seem to go on and on and on and there are no handrails which makes the descent quite perilous but the native bush  is so pretty it is well worth the descent.  A couple I met along the way told me there are 500 steps within the reserve.  I'm not sure if this is correct but it certainly seemed like it! 

  The bush is beautiful and serene and full of regenerating native New Zealand trees and ferns. The stream on the valley floor is home to a number of native aquatic creatures, including koura and eels and is an important part of the ecosystem.  Housing development approaching from the south has had a detrimental effect on the stream, due to earthworks and sediment getting into the water but work is afoot now to protect it.

Well  I have to be honest and say the stream was a bit of a disappointment but that was, no doubt, a result of the long dry spell of weather we have had. I imagine at other times of year it flows well. Nevertheless there was a pleasing sound of running water as a tiny stream tumbled over rocks down to the almost dry stream bed and I was happy, being in native bush with only the sound of water and bird song is one of my favourite places to be.

The tiny trickle of the stream

After crossing the short bridge over the stream the track then ascends out of the valley.  The climb up was much less arduous with a lot fewer stairs to contend with.  The trail then connects with the Pekapeka Track (Pekapeka is the Maori word for New Zealand's native bats) and leads you back to the carpark.

This walk is around 3.4 kilometres long and took me about 50 minutes to complete.  There is a picnic table at the summit near the trig and plenty of grassy areas to sit on while you enjoy the views or have your own refreshments. Dogs are permitted but must be on leash. It is a lovely walk and I was pleased to have found it.  I will certainly do it again.

Norfolk Island - Things to know before you go.

 Norfolk Island is small and isolated so it pays to go prepared. Here are some helpful tips for you before you visit. I assure you that if you go prepared  you will have a wonderful time.

* Take plenty of cash.  We were there for a week and the whole time we were there the island's sole  cash flow machine was out of order.  Neither the Post Office nor the Commonwealth bank would allow me to draw money so  I ended up with only  a $1 coin in my wallet for the last four days. I did get by OK but it  was disconcerting and I couldn't make any purchases at the markets where  they dealt mostly in cash.

*  Be sparing in your water use.  Norfolk depends mainly on rain water and although most dwellings have large water tanks they do go through periods of drought. In times of drought the island's desalination plant operates but water must be carted to where it's needed from there. We used water from our showers to water the  garden  at the house we were staying in.

* The island has a surprising number of cafes and restaurants.  You will be spoilt for choice. We went to many and they were all good and reasonably priced.  For fine dining we went to The Homestead and Bounty Club and for cheap and cheerful we went to the RSL Club and the Bowling Club. 

The Homestead Restaurant

* Don't expect to find everything you want at the supermarket.  The island is dependent on shipping for all their supplies and if the weather is bad shipping can be delayed by several months.  Having said  that, despite remarkably empty supermarket shelves, with a bit of creativity, we were able to buy plenty  to cook with.  Slick and Son by the airport is a beautiful butchery/deli and is very well stocked with goods they air freight from Australia.  The islanders are incredibly resourceful and will make  the most of what is available. We always found plenty to choose from the menu when we were eating out.

The shelves were pretty empty while we were there.  They were waiting on a delayed shipment.

* There are plenty of good shops in Burnt Pine.  You can buy pretty much anything you want from hardware to clothing to kitchen equipment. I highly recommend Aatuti Art in Burnt Pine for good quality art, hand printed garments and fine souvenirs.

Aatuti Art  (Photo by Aatuti)

* The  car rental company by the airport has excellent cars and a good range to choose from.  We hired two for our group and they were modern and well maintained.

* The roads are varied.  Some are in very good order and quite a few are very pot holed but the pot holing is generally fairly superficial.  Nevertheless drive carefully especially since the cattle on the island roam free.

* The locals are really friendly so take time to chat with them, it is rewarding. And listen out for people speaking the local language, Norfuk, which is a blend of 18th century English and Tahitian. We came across a group of young people at the bowling club holding a conversation in Norfuk and we were intrigued.

* For a small island there are plenty of tours you can take. Everything from Convict Tours to Culture Tours, Farm Tours and Food Tours. I highly recommend the Progressive Dinner, which I talked about in my last post.  It is so much fun.

Finally, unfortunately there are currently no direct flights from New Zealand.  We were lucky to get on direct flights at the time we went.  Now it requires a long and expensive trip via Australia.  Here's hoping there will be flights from New Zealand once again in the future.  I, for one, would dearly love to visit this lovely island again.

So as the Norfolk Islanders said to us as we were leaving: 

"Yorlye kum baek sun" or You all come back soon.