Exploring around Auckland - Point View Reserve, East Auckland

 I often wake up on a Sunday morning with the idea of exploring somewhere new around my city. So it was that last Sunday I did a google search and found a walk I had never done before. Just 40 minutes from my home the semi rural Point View  Reserve was just what I was looking for.

A few kilometres down Point View Drive, East Auckland, I pulled into the carpark at the start of the walk to be greeted with stunning, panoramic, 360 degree views over Auckland and the countryside.

Looking over Whitford a complete contrast from the urban views in the opposite direction

After taking photos and drinking in the views I started down the gravel driveway at the start of the Piwakawaka Track which I found led to a large water resevoir.  (Piwakawaka is the Maori name for the delightful little Fantail bird). I became aware that there was absolute silence, apart from the occasional bird call and an aeroplane taking off from the nearby airport - no traffic noise, no machinery noise, a rare and delightful find in or close to a city,

View out across suburbia to the Manukau Heads

Downtown Auckland, 23 kilometres away.

 After circling the resevoir the track pops out into the open and to the left I took the Koura bush clad track which leads down to a stream.  (Koura is the Maori name for fresh water crayfish)  As I'm a sucker for flowing water I was keen to take this track but I  hadn't expected the endless flights of stairs that take walkers right down into the valley. The stairs seem to go on and on and on and there are no handrails which makes the descent quite perilous but the native bush  is so pretty it is well worth the descent.  A couple I met along the way told me there are 500 steps within the reserve.  I'm not sure if this is correct but it certainly seemed like it! 

  The bush is beautiful and serene and full of regenerating native New Zealand trees and ferns. The stream on the valley floor is home to a number of native aquatic creatures, including koura and eels and is an important part of the ecosystem.  Housing development approaching from the south has had a detrimental effect on the stream, due to earthworks and sediment getting into the water but work is afoot now to protect it.

Well  I have to be honest and say the stream was a bit of a disappointment but that was, no doubt, a result of the long dry spell of weather we have had. I imagine at other times of year it flows well. Nevertheless there was a pleasing sound of running water as a tiny stream tumbled over rocks down to the almost dry stream bed and I was happy, being in native bush with only the sound of water and bird song is one of my favourite places to be.

The tiny trickle of the stream

After crossing the short bridge over the stream the track then ascends out of the valley.  The climb up was much less arduous with a lot fewer stairs to contend with.  The trail then connects with the Pekapeka Track (Pekapeka is the Maori word for New Zealand's native bats) and leads you back to the carpark.

This walk is around 3.4 kilometres long and took me about 50 minutes to complete.  There is a picnic table at the summit near the trig and plenty of grassy areas to sit on while you enjoy the views or have your own refreshments. Dogs are permitted but must be on leash. It is a lovely walk and I was pleased to have found it.  I will certainly do it again.

Norfolk Island - Things to know before you go.

 Norfolk Island is small and isolated so it pays to go prepared. Here are some helpful tips for you before you visit. I assure you that if you go prepared  you will have a wonderful time.

* Take plenty of cash.  We were there for a week and the whole time we were there the island's sole  cash flow machine was out of order.  Neither the Post Office nor the Commonwealth bank would allow me to draw money so  I ended up with only  a $1 coin in my wallet for the last four days. I did get by OK but it  was disconcerting and I couldn't make any purchases at the markets where  they dealt mostly in cash.

*  Be sparing in your water use.  Norfolk depends mainly on rain water and although most dwellings have large water tanks they do go through periods of drought. In times of drought the island's desalination plant operates but water must be carted to where it's needed from there. We used water from our showers to water the  garden  at the house we were staying in.

* The island has a surprising number of cafes and restaurants.  You will be spoilt for choice. We went to many and they were all good and reasonably priced.  For fine dining we went to The Homestead and Bounty Club and for cheap and cheerful we went to the RSL Club and the Bowling Club. 

The Homestead Restaurant

* Don't expect to find everything you want at the supermarket.  The island is dependent on shipping for all their supplies and if the weather is bad shipping can be delayed by several months.  Having said  that, despite remarkably empty supermarket shelves, with a bit of creativity, we were able to buy plenty  to cook with.  Slick and Son by the airport is a beautiful butchery/deli and is very well stocked with goods they air freight from Australia.  The islanders are incredibly resourceful and will make  the most of what is available. We always found plenty to choose from the menu when we were eating out.

The shelves were pretty empty while we were there.  They were waiting on a delayed shipment.

* There are plenty of good shops in Burnt Pine.  You can buy pretty much anything you want from hardware to clothing to kitchen equipment. I highly recommend Aatuti Art in Burnt Pine for good quality art, hand printed garments and fine souvenirs.

Aatuti Art  (Photo by Aatuti)

* The  car rental company by the airport has excellent cars and a good range to choose from.  We hired two for our group and they were modern and well maintained.

* The roads are varied.  Some are in very good order and quite a few are very pot holed but the pot holing is generally fairly superficial.  Nevertheless drive carefully especially since the cattle on the island roam free.

* The locals are really friendly so take time to chat with them, it is rewarding. And listen out for people speaking the local language, Norfuk, which is a blend of 18th century English and Tahitian. We came across a group of young people at the bowling club holding a conversation in Norfuk and we were intrigued.

* For a small island there are plenty of tours you can take. Everything from Convict Tours to Culture Tours, Farm Tours and Food Tours. I highly recommend the Progressive Dinner, which I talked about in my last post.  It is so much fun.

Finally, unfortunately there are currently no direct flights from New Zealand.  We were lucky to get on direct flights at the time we went.  Now it requires a long and expensive trip via Australia.  Here's hoping there will be flights from New Zealand once again in the future.  I, for one, would dearly love to visit this lovely island again.

So as the Norfolk Islanders said to us as we were leaving: 

"Yorlye kum baek sun" or You all come back soon.

Norfolk Island - Part 2 - Places to see and things to do

 Norfolk Island is small, there is no doubt about that, but don't be fooled, there is plenty to do and some stunning sights to see.  Our group of 7 hired a 7 seater car which enabled us to drive all over the island and around the coast. The coast line is spectacular - great foaming waves crashing over rocky shores is a mesmerising sight, I could watch them for hours.  They can also be entertaining, well at least they were to the other 6 members of my group.  We had driven down to Cascade Bay to see where the ships come in to unload goods and produce for the island.  I was totally absorbed in watching the waves from the pier facing in one direction oblivious to the waves coming in from the other direction. A large wave came in and completely engulfed me much to the delight of my friends.  I was soaked and cold from head to foot but could at least see the humour in it. Fortunately, or unfortunately, nobody got a photo of this watery event.

Ooops!  I didn't see that coming!

Another day we drove to the other side of the island to see the glorious golden sand Anson Bay and the Captain Cook Memorial. Captain Cook discovered Norfolk Island, and named it, in 1774. Down a short but steep path from the monument there is a look out and the views are absolutely stunning!  What a beautiful place the island is.

Anson Bay

Above and below: views from the look out at Captain Cook Memorial

A drive to the top of Mount Pitt located  in the island's National Park gave us spectacular 360 degree views.  We lingered a while soaking it all in before driving to the old Melanesian mission and St Barnabas' chapel.  Set way out in the country this lovely church is really worth a visit.

View from Mt Pitt - note the ubiquitous Norfolk Pines

Inside St Barnabas Chapel

Driving around Norfolk Island is interesting.  Although most of the roads are sealed a lot of them are severely pot holed so it is essential to drive carefully, also the cows on the island roam free so you will encounter them lazily crossing the road in front of you.  I loved that, though, so rustic, laid back and charming. 

But our time on Norfolk was not all about sight seeing, we also got to enjoy some great activities.

One night we went for an evening of fine dining at The Homestead restaurant, set in a hundred year old house in a lovely location,   The meal was superb.  I highly recommend this especially for a special occasion.

The Homestead restaurant

Another night we went on a progressive dinner tour.  This was huge fun!  I remember when progressive dinners were a thing amongst our friends, it's a shame they have gone out of fashion.  At least Norfolk Island has turned them into a much enjoyed tourism venture. It involved three courses at three different homes with affable hosts who talked about life on the island today and some of the history of the past.  A must do for visitors to the island.

Main course of the progressive dinner, I'm 2nd from the left

One afternoon we went to Two Chimneys Winery, the only winery on the island, for a wine tasting. We were offered 7 different wines to taste and we all thought they were good. I partcularly liked the Verdelho and bought some to bring home. I think everyone bought some which was a good thing because when we went to pay for the tasting we were told it was free of charge.  This surprised us, most wine tastings in New Zealand require a payment and sometimes they are expensive. If you go to Two Chimneys make sure you buy at least a bottle of wine to cover the cost of the tasting, it's only fair.

Wine tasting at Two Chimneys Winery

With a couple of hours to spare I went to see Cyclorama, which was only a few doors from our accommodation. This astonishing 360 degree artwork portraying the history of the Bounty Mutiny and the settling of Norfolk Island took my breath away.  At times I felt I was right inside the painting. Cyclorama has won many Tourism Awards and is not to be missed.

A section of the extraordinary Cyclorama - Photo by Cyclorama

It is very easy to spend a week on Norfolk Island, there's lots to do, lots to see and I hope one day to revisit. There are many tours and activities for the visitor, we barely scratched the surface, and it is a peaceful calming place, the pace of life is slower, it's balm for the soul.

Norfolk Island - Part 1

 Last October I  called into Norfolk Island on a cruise ship. As it turned out we had a scant six hours on the island and a good chunk of that was spent queuing to get back on the ship so I saw very little apart from the main town of Burnt Pine.  Nevertheless what I did see was tantalising so I jumped at the opportunity when friends asked me to join them and some others for a week's stay on the island recently.

Burnt Pine

Norfolk is a small sub tropical island just 8km long and 5km wide with a population of roughly 2200.  It lies in the Pacific Ocean, 1600 kms east of Australia and 1084 kms west of New Zealand.   Captain Cook discovered and named the island after a friend in 1774 and although it was uninhabited then, evidence has been found of early Polynesian settlement.  The Polynesians had abandoned the island by the time of Cook's arrival, possibly due to the lack of water resources. The British included Norfolk Island in their colonisation of Australia and between 1788 and 1814 used it as a penal colony. Then again from 1825 to 1855 when the conditions for prisoners were extremely harsh. After the closing of the penal colony in 1855 residents of Pitcairn Island, the infamous Mutiny on the Bounty mutineers and their families, were transported to Norfolk Island due to over crowding on Pitcairn.  Most settled happily on Norfolk but a number returned to Pitcairn. A quick look through the island phone book shows that the most common surname on the island is Christian, descendants of Fletcher Christian. An amusing aside is that the phone book is the only one in the world where residents are entered under their nick names.

I browsed the telephone book and this is true

I was surprised and pleased to find there is much to explore on the island.  The UNESCO world heritage site of Kingston and Arthur's Vale is a must, rich in history and a fascinating place to spend a whole morning exploring.  It is sad and chilling to walk the ruins of the prison and know that the high walls right on the edge of the sea blocked the prisoners view but not the sound of crashing waves which would have, no doubt,  exacerbated their longing for freedom.  

Looking down over the prison ruins and some of the Georgian buildings

 Overlooking the ruins is a row of magnificent, beautifully preserved, Georgian houses,  which served as the homes and offices of the governers of the prison and island and are still used as the island's governmental offices. And there is a light and airy chapel.  Very hard to reconcile  how the prison governers could attend church while treating the prisoners with extreme cruelty, but there you are. We thoroughly enjoyed browsing the extensive photographic exhibition in the Lions Club house slightly up the hill near the pier.  The display records the history of the island and truly brings it to life.

I always enjoy wandering cemeteries and I found reading the tombstones of the Norfolk Island cemetery at Kingston fascinating.  There you will find the graves of convicts, descendants of the Bounty mutineers, seamen and soldiers and the grave of writer Colleen McCulloch of Thorn Birds fame who made Norfolk Island her home. There can't be too many cemeteries in the world located in a world heritage site.  Further along the road is the very pretty Norfolk Island golf club, a nine hole course right beside the sea and adjoining the glorious golden sand Emily Bay where we swam in the pure, if a little icy, waters.

Emily Bay

Up the hill on the way back to the township of Burnt Pine is The Bounty Museum.  It's name is slightly misleading, it is not all about the Bounty.  What looks like a small museum from the outside unfolds into room after room crammed with historical artefacts from the island.  There is everything from the balls and chains the convicts had to wear to more mundane things like telephones, cameras and 1950's kitchen equipment. So much to see that you could spend hours there and unusually for a museum you are free to pick up and or touch the exhibits.

Don't be fooled by its simple exterior.  This quirky museum is a veritable Alladin's cave of artefacts

It used to be said that the only people to visit Norfolk Island were the "newly wed and nearly dead", the inference being that it was too quiet and boring.  That was harsh and unfair.  I am not in the first category and sincerely hope I am not in the second! and I loved it.  How refreshing to visit an island where people are just naturally friendly, where cattle roam free and keep the grass verges in pristine condition, where everywhere you look there is a stunning view, where crime is minimal, so much so that houses are rarely locked and nobody locks their car.  I mean what would be the point of stealing a car?  Everyone on the island would spot it. 

Working hard at keeping the grass verge tidy

Norfolk has a rich, colourful and, at times, brutal history but today it is a charming, peaceful and friendly place to visit.

My next post will explore places to go and things to do around the island.

The Ginger Factory, Yandina, Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia

 The Ginger Factory is a celebration of all things ginger offering factory and tasting tours, tropical bush walks, theme park style activities and, of course, a shop crammed full of products made with ginger.

I had been there once before but it had been right at the end of the day when things were closing down and we didn't have enough time to explore the park properly.  So when I was staying on the Sunshine Coast recently I thought it was time to have another look and I was very pleased I did. It has been substantially improved and extended since my first visit.

Firstly I joined the Factory and Processing tour.  A knowledgeable guide talked about the growing of ginger, its uses and how it is suited to the Queensland climate,  the importance of bees for pollination and she then took  us to view the large  processing plant.  To end the tour we were taken to a tasting room where we got to taste several ginger products.   I enjoyed the tour,  it is well worth while.

Huge vats of ginger being processed

Next I wandered the pretty rainforest tropical gardens with its water features and quiet, serene places to sit, delightful on a hot day. The Rainbrella Project is a colourful installation by Sophy Blake and a great photo spot on the garden walk.

I'm always a sucker for trains, even little tiny ones, so just had to have a ride on Moreton, the open carriage ginger train, which takes guests on a 15 minute ride through lush gardens and the factory site.  The informative commentary tells of the history of Yandina and the development of ginger growing in the area.

Moreton the Ginger Train 

Local visitors can buy some stunning tropical plants at the Potting Shed on site but as an international tourist I couldn't buy, nevertheless it was good to look at the gloriously vibrant tropical flowers and plants on offer.

There are plenty of activities for children including Craft Days, a Creative Hub, a Knight School (extra charge for this) and  Overboard which is a boat ride accompanied by music and animated puppetry (for all ages). The place was positively humming with happy children the day I was there.

The Egyptian part of the boat tour (photo from trip advisor)

If you are in a shopping mood or want souvenirs to take home there are plenty of shops to choose from including a toy shop, a herbs and fragrance shop and the main shop at the entry/exit.  You'll find a wonderland of ginger products in the main shop, it was hard to choose just a few things to take home but I managed.

The shop sells everything ginger, drinks, sweets, sauces, soaps, etc, etc
(photo from trip advisor)

Because it was the school holidays the place was pretty crowded with families, however, the only place that felt overly crowded was the cafe so I took myself across the road to the Pioneer Coffee Roastery where I had a very pleasant, leisurely coffee in peace. The Roastery and the adjoining Nut Shop are also both worth a visit.

The Coffee Roastery has a wonderful selection of coffees to buy.

I think the Ginger Factory is a terrific place for anyone to visit and especially families.  It is well maintained, educational, and there are activities for children and adults alike. I'd say it is a half day activity.

Disclaimer: Views are my own. I have no connection to the Ginger Factory

Coast to Hinterland Food and Wine Tour, Sunshine Coast, Australia

 With a whole week to just relax and enjoy Mooloolaba, on Queensland's Sunshine Coast, I thought it would be fun to spend one day taking a food and wine tour out into the hinterland.  Collected from my hotel by a very friendly Dave, who was to be our guide for the day,  I was one of just five on the Coast to Hinterland Tour, we were a small friendly group.

 Our first stop was  at the very pleasant little town of Maleny  to enjoy a tasting of locally made chocolates. This was a little bit underwhelming to be honest.  It was basically just a chocolate shop but it did have an amazing array of different flavoured chocolates and we were invited to try a number of samples, some with uniquely Australian flavours, and we were  also given a slab of chocolate to keep.

From there we went to the Maleny Cheese factory.   After a short talk about the making of cheese and viewing the factory area where the cheeses were made we were given two large platters to share with a wide assortment of Maleny cheeses, breads, crackers, chutneys etc, all delicious, which we enjoyed with a welcome cup of coffee.  I highly recommend this place for the warmth of our welcome and the generosity of the cheese boards.

Well satisfied we continued on to the Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve for a walk through tranquil native bush and to view spectacular views out towards the Glass House mountains and  the coast.  We were lucky, it was a beautiful day and we had very clear views and I always enjoy the serenity of the bush.

Cool, shady bush at the Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve

View from Mary Cairncross of the Glass House Mountains

Then it was time for a wine tasting at Clouds Restaurant. We each received  generous pourings of 4 different wines and sat in a sunny courtyard enjoying the tasting, hearing about the different wines and chatting with our fellow passengers.  Pleasant indeed. 

The road to our lunch destination was very pretty, stopping at Gerrard's Lookout for panoramic views of the countryside, then on through rolling hills and finally down a steep bush lined road to Secrets on the Lake.  This is a pretty eccentric kind of place in a stunning location right on the edge of a lake. Within the restaurant there are numerous intricate wood carvings.  They are impressive.  Lunch here was absolutely superb.  The quality of the food was outstanding, befitting of a wine and food tour.  I had barramundi, asparagus, tomatoes with a potato mash for my main followed by orange creme brulee. Delicious.

View from Secrets on the Lake resort

My sublime lunch

One of many carvings in the restaurant  area

The owner of the lodge offered to show us one of the accommodation lodges.  The lodges are set high on poles and are accessed by long wooden walkways through the bush.  The lodge, like the restaurant, was eccentric with plenty of wooden carvings and an unusual layout, really not my style, but it had stunning views over the lake and I imagine would certainly be a very restful place to spend a few days.

Australian themed tiles in a lodge shower

The day was speeding by and by the time we got to the lovely village of Montville most of the shops and cafes were closing.  We did have time to take in the views towards Mooloolaba and as I had been to Montville on a couple of other occasions I wasn't too fazed.  A shame for the other passengers, though because Montville is charming and home to numerous independent crafty type shops.

The charming Camphor Cottage, Montville (Photo from Trip Advisor)

The view out over the rain forest from the platform at Mapleton Falls

Mapleton Falls cascading down into a deep ravine 

To round out the day we made our final stop at Mapelton Falls National Park to see the waterfall plunging 120 metres down into the deep Obi Obi Gorge. We viewed it from a platform hanging right out over the ravine.  I'm not usually afraid of heights but found this a bit stomach churning, nevertheless  I stood on the platform to take in the view of the rain forest and waterfall before scampering off to safer ground. 

Then it was back to Mooloolaba after a truly fantastic day.  I highly recommend this tour, it had a bit of everything and really showcased the lovely hinterland of the Sunshine Coast plus, as the tour's name states, provided delicious food and good wine. 

Great company for the day. Glass House Mountains behind us.

Disclaimer:  I have no association with Coast to Hinterland Tours.  I paid my own way and this is my unbiased opinion of the day.