Plymouth, England - Britain's Ocean City

We were in Plymouth just long enough to have a quick wander and some lunch, (refer my last post), so I was keen to make the most of our short visit.  Fortunately we were dropped off at the boat harbour beside the Barbican, the most historic part of Plymouth. 

 

The Barbican is a quaint, ancient set of streets containing 200 listed buildings, many dating from Tudor and Jacobean times, my kind of place.  The cobble stone streets now offer cafes, galleries and shops and also the Plymouth Gin Company, the oldest gin distillery in England.  Plymouth Gin is housed in a building which dates back to the 1400s and it is said that the Mayflower Fathers spent their last night there before setting sail on The Mayflower to the new world. It became a gin distillery in 1793, well after the Puritan abstainers stayed there. I would have loved to tour the building but time didn't allow, instead I poked my nose in the door to soak up the atmosphere, if not a little whiff of gin! 

   The main street was fairly busy so I decided to head up into the back streets which were deserted.  It was like stepping back in time and I kept thinking "Boy, if these buildings could talk what tales they'd have".  By the mid 19th century the Barbican was long past its heyday and was a rat infested, overcrowded, squalid and disease ridden slum.  Plymouth City Council wanted to clear it and build new housing on the site but fortunately a group of enthusiastic conservationists stepped in and worked hard to ensure its preservation.  They formed what is now the Barbican Trust and set about restoring and cleaning the historic buildings.  Their hard work has provided Plymouth with a jewel in its crown, now a charming  precinct of antique shops, art galleries and tea shops.              

                                          

I enjoyed my stroll around the Barbican but with time running out before continuing our bus tour I headed back down to the boat harbour to view the Mayflower steps.  Actually, the steps are no longer there, however, a granite block marks the approximate spot it is believed they were.

Of particular interest to me, as a New Zealander, were the plaques commemorating the ships that sailed from Plymouth to New Zealand carrying very early colonists including several that went to settle a city in New Zealand they named New Plymouth.

So there you have it.  A fleeting look at Plymouth which has so much more to offer than I had time to see, a town full of naval history with museums, a citadel and as the place Sir Walter Raleigh rallied the navy, led by Sir Francis Drake which set off to successfully defend England from the Spanish Armada. Nevertheless I liked what I saw. It is known as Britain's Ocean city due to its coastal location, large harbour and fresh, salty air. It was a great place for me to ponder history, have a wander and lunch and give thanks to those conservationists who despite opposition stuck to their guns.

The Iconic Cornish Pasty - The ideal lunch for hard working miners

 You can't go to Cornwall without having a Cornish Pasty, can you?   It was somewhat ironic, though, that I had my first Cornish Pasty in Devon, on the Barbican in Plymouth to be exact. To be fair it was completely authentic because in 2011 Cornish Pasties were awarded a PDO, that is a Protected Designation of Origin.  This means that in order to be sold as Cornish Pasties they must have been made in Cornwall and the Barbican Pasty Shop is famous for selling spectacularly good pasties from Bodmin, Cornwall.

Pasties have a long history, King Henry V111 is said to have referred to them and Shakespeare also mentioned them in "All's Well That Ends Well" Act V1: Scene 111.  They evolved in the 1800s as a practical and hearty lunch for the hard working Cornish tin and copper miners and farm workers and today remain as a popular handy, portable meal. The deeply crimped edges were developed as a handle for the miners to hold as their  hands were dirty and often contaminated with arsenic.  After eating the pasty they would throw away the edge.  The crescent shape made them easy to carry in a pocket. Sometimes the pasties were baked as a whole meal with the meat filling at one end and a sweet fruit filling at the other.  

To be authentic the pasty must stick to the following rules:

* Must be made in Cornwall

* Contain only beef, onion, potato, swede (rutabaga) and salt and pepper - no other ingredients or seasoning

* The ingredients must be raw and uncooked, when filled into the pastry and then baked slowly

* The edges of the pastry must be crimped in the traditional Cornish style

Since we were in Plymouth for a lunch break it was my golden opportunity to enjoy this traditional lunch at the acclaimed Barbican shop.  Among their dazzling array of pasties there were all sorts of flavours and fillings but I was there to have a traditional Cornish Pasty because I think it's fun to try traditional foods from whatever country I happen to be in.  I bought a medium sized one and very tasty it was too, just too big and filling for me.  But, yes, perfect for someone who wants a good, handy and satisfying lunch. I can just imagine how much  those hard working Cornish miners and farm workers would have looked forward to this substantial and comforting lunch. 

My pasty.  It doesn't look big but, my, was it filling!

Every country has their version of this portable, quick, tasty meal.  New Zealanders  are big fans of Meat Pies with a wide variety of meat fillings, in South America it is the Empanada, in Greece the Kreatopita, in Russia the Pierogi and, of course the Indian Samosa, but there are many others all tasty and portable and ideal for a lunch box or picnic. If you would like to try baking a Cornish pasty there are plenty of recipes on line, you will find one here: 

www.thespruceeats.com   and type Cornish Pasty into the search box

Land's End, England. Pretty cheesy but worth it for the views

 Land's End is the sort of place you go to to  say you've been there.  I was there recently as part of my tour of Cornwall and was more than happy to visit a place that I had heard so much about. It came as a bit of a surprise  to find that entry to the cliffside and views out over the sea was gained through a funfair, though.  I realise funfairs are a part of the English seaside experience but coming from New Zealand, where seaside funfairs are unheard of, my preference is for  nature to be natural. Fortunately you can walk straight through the funfair for free and the views from the cliffs make a visit well worthwhile.

Entry via a funfair

Land's End, in Cornish, Penn a Wlas, meaning "end of the land", has been in private hands and a tourist attraction for over 300 years. In 1987 the property was bought by a private investor who developed most of the current funfair. Apparently the National Trust made a bid for the property but unfortunately missed out. It is now owned by Heritage Great Britain PLC, an attractions company. The complex contains, not only the funfair but a restaurant with panoramic views, shops, a 4D cinema and snack bars, all perched high above stunning granite cliffs.

Looking out across the Atlantic, next stop USA.

For 12 pounds you can have your home
country inserted in the blank spot

But we were here for the views so my travelling companion and I made our way along a pathway down to the furthest point to take in the spectacular sight of the Atlantic Ocean crashing onto the rocks below the 200 foot high cliffs. It was a perfect day so we were lucky enough to see the Scilly Isles faintly in the distance. 20 miles away is the Longships Lighthouse which can also be seen on a clear day. I loved this dramatic wild and wonderful view and we stood for a while drinking it all in. Back along the path we passed the First and Last shop, built in the 19th century to supply souvenirs to tourists, it now also sells ice creams, and a photographer asking 12 pounds to take your photo by the famous distance sign.  Bypassing both we made our way back to our tour bus. 

In fact Land's End is not the most southern part of mainland UK, it is the most western. If you are looking for natural, unspoilt, and the actual southernmost spot it is at Lizard Point,  20miles (32Ks) further along the coast.

We can tick Land's End off our 'to do' list and the views are certainly stunning but I think, on reflection, and with my aversion to the commercialisation of a natural site of scenic beauty,  I would probably prefer Lizard Point. I can, however, see Land's End as a popular, family holiday destination with its nearby accommodation, amazing cliff top walks, restaurants and snack shops and the funfair and handy animal park to keep the children entertained.  It's just not for me.

Christmas Good Wishes 2022

My Christmas tree

Now we are at the end of another year and they seem to go faster the older I get!

Here in New Zealand it is summer and the start of the long summer holidays for students.  Everybody's thoughts are on barbeques and long lazy days at the beach and, of course, Christmas.  Christmas is different here at the bottom of the world, no snow for us, or holly or little robin red breasts perched delicately on fence posts, despite the wintry Christmas cards they still sell in our shops.  Christmas dinner is a bit different too.  Although many people stick to the traditional Christmas dinners the early European immigrants brought to New Zealand more and more celebrate with a relaxed barbeque at the beach or in the back yard, albeit a bit fancier than usual...maybe with a crayfish, or lobster and some fancy salads. When I was a child we finished the meal with plum pudding containing shiny 3 penny pieces - it was so exciting to find one in your plate.  Nowadays most people have pavlova, with ice cream and fresh berries for dessert.  The old style Christmas here is evolving to become something more in keeping with our usually hot sticky Christmas days.

(I made the above video during lock down.  I hope every one who wishes to can travel now)

For myself, I am looking forward to having my family around for Christmas dinner. Mine is a mix of old and new...hot glazed ham, roast vegetables, green beans, ice cream, pavlova and fresh berries. The greatest joy of my day is being with family and seeing the excitement on my grandchildren's faces as they open their presents.

NB: If you will be alone at Christmas key in: Alone at Christmas in my search box for good ideas on how to spend the day.

Whatever the season the message of Christmas is the same the world over . It is a message of hope, peace, joy and goodwill to all.  You do not have to be a Christian to appreciate this message and it is my hope for all my readers. I also hope you all enjoy family time and have time to relax and that 2023 brings you only good things.

See you next year!

  

Britain's Mighty Magna Carta at Salisbury Cathedral.

 Some people remark that they are all Cathedraled out after a trip to Britain or Europe.   Personally I love the peaceful ambiance and the architecture of ancient cathedrals.  I'm always in awe of the fact that these intricate, soaring and highly decorative buildings were constructed without the benefit of modern methods and machinery.  However, if you are in the "all cathedraled out" camp there are still some worthy of a visit and one of them is Salisbury Cathedral in the beautiful county of Wiltshire, England.

Built between the years of 1310 and 1330 this cathedral has many claims to fame.  Firstly it has the tallest spire in Britain at 123 metres and weighing 6500 tons.  It also has the largest cloisters and close of any cathedral in Britain. (A close is the area surrounding the cathedral which is the property of the cathedral) In Salisbury the close covers 80 acres and contains museums, colleges and stately homes together with vast lawns and gardens ideal for relaxing in, strolling and picnicking.

The mechanical clock

     (Apologies for poor quality of the above photo taken into the sun)

Interestingly the cathedral is home to the worlds oldest mechanical clock.  Built in 1386 in Delft, Netherlands, by order of the then bishop to ensure the priests knew when to pray and when church services would start, it is a large contraption with no clock face. This fascinating 650 year old clock  is operated by a system of weights and pullies and needs daily winding to ensure it strikes the time on the hour. 

The cathedral itself is light and airy with  glorious stained glass windows and stone work. As a lover of cloisters I really enjoyed strolling them and visiting the exquisite chapter house with its ornate carvings but the absolute drawcard and 'must see' is the original copy of the Magna Carta (Great Charter). At Salisbury it is one of only four remaining originals and is the best preserved.   Visitors file past this precious document housed in an enclosed, dark, curtained area, just long enough to have a reasonable look but can spend longer viewing a facsimile of it near by. 

The Magna Carta

Although it is now 800 years old the Magna Carta is still one of the world's most important documents as a powerful symbol of justice.

Drafted by the Archbishop of Canterbury in an effort to make peace between the tyrannical King John and a group of rebel barons, the Magna Carta limited the powers of the monarchy and gave individual citizens defined personal and property rights. King John agreed to the charter and signed it in 1215 at Runnymede. Most of the clauses in the Magna Carta have been superseded by new laws but two very important and fundamental clauses remain part of English law.  These clauses affirm the rights and freedoms of citizens and is the foundation of democratic society.

Clause 40 of the Magna Carta states: "To no one will we sell, to no one deny or delay right or justice"

The cathedral houses a large, light cafe and, of course, the ubiquitous gift shop.  Salisbury itself is a pretty town with a medieval centre and an ancient market square. The cathedral is approached along traditional streets housing cafes and gift shops making it worthy of a stroll. The town is only 12 kilometres from Stonehenge which I have written about in a previous post. It can be found in the search box.

The Spectacular Minack Theatre, Cornwall

 I enjoy live theatre and have been to many theatres over my life time from local playhouses to grand theatres in London and the USA, even to vast, awe inspiring  ampitheatres in Turkey but the Minack Theatre in Cornwall is like nothing I have ever seen before. 

Located only a few kilometres from  Lands End on the stunning coast of Porthcurno Bay, the 750 seat theatre was the brain child of Rowena Cade.  Rowena had bought the headland for 100 pounds in the 1920s and built her home there. As a great lover of  theatre she quickly became involved in local productions offering her garden for a production of A Midsummer Night's Dream.  She then decided that since there was no theatre in the area she would build one herself on her rugged coastal property.

Rowena began work on the Minack in 1930 and although having able assistance from her loyal gardener, Billy Rawlings, and some local workmen, did much of the work herself carrying buckets of sand and wooden beams up and down the very steep site. By 1932 she had the bare bones of the theatre in time for it to host a production of The Tempest. Facilities at that time were sketchy so stage lighting was provided by battery and car headlights, however, her work continued and the theatre expanded and improved over time.

Seats engraved with the names of productions performed at the Minack

 Rowena mastered a technique of making the concrete and sand seats look like stone and she painstakingly engraved Celtic patterns and the names of the plays performed there into the backs of the seats. In the whole theatre there is only one granite seat which Rowena dedicated to Billy Rawlings who died in 1966.

The perfect location for a war time look out post

During the second World War the theatre was requisitioned for use as a look out post. After the war major restoration and improvements were undertaken and in 2014 it was named as one of the most spectacular theatres in the world, a truly wonderful legacy for Rowena who continued working on the theatre up into her mid eighties.  She died in 1983 just short of her 90th birthday.

The steep seating ensures good views of the stage below and the sea beyond

Today, to cater for modern audiences, improvements continue but are made strictly in keeping with the style and vision of Rowena.  There are now professional lighting and sound systems, toilets and a coffee shop and a small exhibition area where you can see historic photos of Rowena at work. Nevertheless seating is still on grass or concrete terraces and patrons are advised to bring cushions to sit on.  Productions are held here rain or shine so umbrellas and raincoats are also advised depending on the weather.  I can only imagine how thrilling, albeit rather uncomfortable, it would be to see a production of The Tempest in an actual tempest with waves crashing on the rocks right behind the stage.  It was my good fortune to visit on a glorious sunny day and it was, without doubt, a major highlight of my trip to Cornwall.

Loving the ambiance- on the stage

www.minack.com

Dartmoor, Devon, England - Wild, Wonderful and Mysterious

Taking in the view 

In my imagination Dartmoor was a hostile, unwelcoming and, at times, spooky place. I had read Arthur Conan Doyle's chilling Sherlock Holmes novel, The Hound of the Baskervilles, and various other accounts of how bleak and inhospitable it was, so naturally that was what I expected. As luck would have it it was a glorious, hot, summer's day when I travelled through Dartmoor recently and the sweeping, vast landscapes looked anything but inhospitable.  

Located in county Devon, England and  covering 368 sq miles (954 sq kms) Dartmoor is a treasure trove of history and nature. There is everything for the nature lover from forest, farmland and heather clad open moors to wild flower meadows. For the history buff there are stone cists, burial cairns and hut circles. Also industrial ruins of tin mines, quarries and even the remains of a 19th century gunpowder factory.

Sheep up on the gorse and heather clad moors

The spectacular landscape was formed 300 million years ago by movement within the earth which forced granite up to the earth's surface creating granite tors, the tallest being over 2039 feet (621 metres) above sea level.  Human beings settled in the area around 4000 years ago and built villages, farmed cattle and sheep and mined tin. Today Dartmoor is a National Park, with a few tiny villages, farms and walking and cycling tracks popular with trampers and cyclists.  

Above and below:  Highland cattle and wild Dartmoor ponies

High up on the moors we stopped for a while to admire the expansive views out over the countryside and spend a bit of time with the wild life.  I was particularly delighted to get up close to Highland cattle (aka hairy coos), and the tame sheep.  The wild ponies were a bit more circumspect but were close enough for us to get photos, albeit not very good ones.

    

We drove past the infamous Dartmoor prison built originally to house French captives from the Napoleonic wars and known to have a harsh regimen for most of its 200 years.  Today the prison houses medium level offenders and proudly focuses on rehabilitation and counselling, however, if you want to learn about grim prison life here in times gone by there is now a very popular Dartmoor Prison Museum.

Post Office and General Store, Postbridge

 In the heart of Dartmoor is the tiny village of Postbridge where we stopped to admire the adjoining two bridges. The ancient Clapper Bridge was built around the 13th century in order to get horses and carts across the river.  It is a simple construction of granite pillars topped by huge granite slabs.  The word clapper comes from an Anglo Saxon word meaning stepping stones. 

The Clapper Bridge, Postbridge

Close to the Clapper Bridge is the Road Bridge (c1792) which carries modern traffic. There are many myths and legends around the Road Bridge the most famous being the ghost story called 'Hairy Hands'.  The story goes that numerous accidents have occurred caused by mysterious hairy hands coming from nowhere, grabbing steering wheels and causing cars to veer off the road.   They are colourful stories but investigations found that the accidents were most likely caused by motorists driving too quickly on the unfamiliar road and that the camber of the road was dangerous.  The camber has since been corrected. 

The Road Bridge

Our final stop on Dartmoor was at the serene and beautiful Burrator Reservoir (1898), its lush vegetation and expanse of water a contrast to the high moorland.  Water level in the reservoir was low due to a long hot summer.

Dartmoor was in some ways what I had imagined but due to perfect weather not the forbidding place I had expected it to be.  I am certain that a long, cold, wet winter on the moors would be an entirely different matter. It's a wonderful place and I can see why it is so popular with trampers and cyclists having a bit of everything - history, nature, interesting geography, tiny villages and wild life.

 www.dartmoor-prison.co.uk

You will get a good feel for Dartmoor by watching this short video by National Parks