A Taste of Spain - My Empanadilla Inspired Pie

Everywhere you go these days you will see tapas on the menu in bars and restaurants.  For me, tapas are a favourite way of eating.  I love sharing multiple small plates with friends, getting to enjoy a variety of tastes and flavours in a convivial way.  There are many stories about the origin of tapas but probably the most likely one is that in a bar in Seville small plates (tapa means plate), were put over glasses of sherry to prevent insects falling in and over time the habit of placing tit bits of salty food on the plates was developed to ensure guests continued drinking!

 Tapas are ubiquitous all over Spain now days so to complete my series on Menorca I would like to share my take on the Empanadilla, a popular tapa.  Normally served as a crescent shaped finger food pastry I  altered the original recipe to make it into a family sized pie suitable for a meal for my family.  I think it worked pretty well, tasty and a taste of Spain....just what I wanted

MEMORIES OF MENORCA TUNA PIE

1 510gm tin of tuna in oil
2 tablespoons of oil
1 large onion finely chopped
1 large red capsicum finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic crushed or finely chopped
300gms of tomatoes finely chopped
15 large green olives stoned and chopped
1 heaped teaspoon of paprika
2 sprigs of parsley chopped
2 hard boiled eggs finely chopped
Enough sheets of puff pastry to cover the top and bottom of your pie tin
Sea salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons of a mild flavoured mayonnaise
1 beaten egg

Drain the tuna.

Heat the oil in a pan and add the onion and capsicum, sauteing until soft but not browned.  Add the garlic and continue frying until fragrant.  Add the tomatoes, you can use tinned but don't put too much liquid in.
Cook until most of the liquid has evaporated but not all of it.  Add the flaked tuna and season with the salt, pepper, paprika and parsley. Fold in the olives, egg and mayonnaise.  Then set aside this filling to cool completely.  If you fill the pie while the filling is warm the pastry will go soggy.

Heat the oven to 200C.  Line the pie tin or flan dish with pastry.  Fill with the cooled filling and cover with pastry.  Brush with the beaten egg and bake in the oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until baked and golden.
This is equally good served hot or cold with a tossed salad and a bowl of olives.

The traditional accompaniment for tapas is sherry and the sherry should be served cold or lightly chilled. A glass of sherry would go just fine with this recipe.

7 Things Worth Knowing About Menorca

ACCOMMODATION

There is every type of accommodation you could wish for on Menorca from luxury lodges to eco cabins and everything in between.  Be warned, some of the more popular beaches are crammed with Brits on package holidays.  If this is not your thing, and if, like me, you prefer to get among the locals, hiring a villa in a small town or village is the way to go.  We hired a villa which came with all mod cons and a swimming pool, it was perfect. I  like a bit of authenticity when I travel so one of my great pleasures was to go to the village store each day to buy food along with the locals,

Villas for rent are available throughout the island - this was ours, we loved it.

TRANSPORT

• BUSES - The buses on Menorca are luxurious and the drivers are polite and friendly.  There are large bus depots at both Mao and Ciutadella with routes servicing a lot of villages.  However, there are many places impossible to get to by bus and the timetables are also very limited.  Bus transport on Menorca is comfortable and pleasant but it takes forward planning to make it work.
• TAXIS - We discovered that there was only one taxi on the island licensed to take 5 passengers.  As we were a family of five it meant taking two taxis most of the time, an expensive exercise.  The taxi drivers we met were prompt,  friendly and obliging.
• RENTAL CARS - We did not hire a car, managing to get to many places by bus or taxi but we all agreed that another time we would, for at least a few days, in order to explore more of the island.  It is important to book a hire car well ahead of your holiday because demand is high.   Poppy Cars  www.poppycars.com is highly recommended, but be careful and read reviews of hire companies before booking.
•  FERRIES - There are regular ferry services to mainland Spain from both Mao and Ciutadella
• CYCLING -Menorca is also perfect for cycling holidays with its relatively flat terrain and lots of cycling/walking trails

LANGUAGE

The people of Menorca have their own language, Menorquin, a dialect of Catalan with its roots in Latin, Italian and French.  It is quite different from Spanish.
For example, here are a few useful words and phrases:

The beach in Menorquin

Bon dia - Good morning
Please - Si us plau
Thanks - Gracies                                                                         Goodbye - Adeu
How are you - Con estas
Sorry - Ho sentim
I don't understand - No sentec

The city of Mao is also known as Mahon (Spanish) but the locals prefer Mao (Menorquin).
You will become a friend if you use some Menorquin words

FOOD SPECIALTIES

 Menorca has its own unique cuisine, drawing on influences from the various countries that have occupied the island over the centuries.  It is different from Spanish cuisine in a number of ways, for example, the far greater use of cheese and dairy products which is a legacy of British rule.  Here are a few Menorcan delicacies worth trying:
Mayonnaise - Gets its name from Mao, where it was invented by a French chef during the French occupancy
Stuffed aubergines - ( Moorish influence)

Seafood - all kinds
Menorcan Cheese ( Queso de Mahon) - which has won many International awards 
Ensaimadas - the soft, fluffy breakfast breads baked in a spiral shape
Sobrassada - minced pork with paprika - a spreadable salami type product, sometimes eaten with honey
Lobster stew - very expensive but, I'm told!, worth it
Xoriguer Gin - (British influence) Menorcan gin is made with grapes, not grain.  It comes in many flavours, the most popular being the Pomada, a long lemony refreshing drink, drunk at fiestas and often on tap in bars. It is sometimes served as a slushy.

CULTURE

Menorca boasts more than 1500 monuments dating from the Talaiotic culture, 2000 BC. These are unique and many are still in an excellent state of conservation making the island a paradise for keen archaeologists.

There are plenty of fiestas celebrated throughout the year.  Get in and enjoy the fun.

A Talaiotic monument in Mao

NATURE

UNESCO biosphere status was awarded to Menorca in 1993 due to the exceptional conservation efforts of the residents.  Apart from its pristine waters and coastline Menorca has 700 square kilometres of nature reserve criss crossed with walking trails through farm lands, canyons, lush woodlands and coastal dunes and wetlands.  Bird watchers can spot Peregrines, Osprey, Vultures and Eagles on their walks.

SHOPPING

Markets are held weekly at various towns around the island.  Stalls offer fantastic value leather goods and the usual T shirts and souvenirs. The ubiquitous leather sandals, worn by everyone on the island, the avarca,  is on sale everywhere.  I bought mine at a shop on the main street on Mao and found it was no more expensive than those on sale at the avarca factory shop.
My picks for souvenirs are leather goods, avarcas and gin. 

Handbags, sandals and belts are excellent buys at the market

Fornells, Menorca - a quintessential Spanish fishing village

Our first impression of Fornells was of dazzling white washed houses gleaming in the bright sunlight but this wasn't just an impression, fortunately this is how it really is.  Originally a fishing village, Fornell's is still a base for lobster fishermen, albeit now it is more of a tourists' playground. Blessed with a deep sheltered bay 5 kilometres long and 2 kilometres wide it is perfect for all sorts of water sports, however, we had not come to play on the water but rather to soak up the atmosphere of this exquisite village.

 We were captivated from the moment we arrived at the waterfront lined as it is with palm trees and enticing restaurants boasting starched white table cloths and gleaming crystal. Having two young children in tow  those restaurants weren't for us, though, unlike the former King Carlos, who was a regular visitor to enjoy the village's famous lobster stew, eye wateringly expensive at 70EU per serving.

For us the delight in Fornells was wandering the pretty waterfront and the quaint back streets. It is a small place with a permanent population of just 1000 so it didn't take long to wander around but we loved every moment of it, picking and poking at the waterfront market, climbing the sea wall to get a good view of the harbour, eating ice creams under a shady palm tree and admiring the Llauts, the traditional Menorcan fishing boats, jostling against sleek and expensive leisure boats at the water's edge.  Along the back streets we imagined a simpler life in the sparkling white houses lining paved streets and alleyways some with the most attractive rainwater down pipes I have ever seen.

Sun drenched alleyways

Such a pretty down pipe

 It was blisteringly hot so for a time we sought refuge in the cool, simple and perfectly lovely little church of St Antoni taking time to admire the ceiling paintings of the village and the harbour. St Antoni is the patron saint of Menorca and every January Fornells has a public holiday and fiesta to celebrate him. Next we set out on a walk to the Tower.  Built in the 17th century to defend the village against attacks from Barbary pirates the tower was less than successful in that role but nevertheless still stands as a reminder of a volatile period in the history of Fornells.

Fornells and its harbour feature in ceiling paintings in the village church of St Antoni

The Fornells Tower at the harbour mouth

Hot and sweaty after our walk in the sun we retreated to a tapas restaurant for a cold beer and some lunch. The restaurant, Sa Taupa, is one road back from the sea on a pedestrianised street and was just what we were looking for.  NOTE:  you always pay  more for a sea front restaurant. This one had no view, although I understand they have a good view from their roof top terrace but children are not permitted up there. We were just happy to enjoy the street life and the passing parade of strollers.  It was cool and shady, the tapas were delicious and it was peaceful, our two year old obligingly sleeping right through the meal.

Satisfied and tired after our day in the village it was time to leave, rather reluctantly.  Our taxi driver had promised to return for us but something got lost in translation and he didn't arrive. There is only one taxi on the whole island licensed to take five passengers and he was it so I waved farewell to the rest of my family as they took a different  taxi home and I waited for the next one...it was a very long wait not unpleasant at the waters edge but meltingly hot.  Finally the taxi that had taken my family home returned for me.  The driver told me his temperature gauge said 44 degrees, no wonder I was hot! My family told me later that the taxi driver was worried about me waiting in the sun, although I was under a palm tree, and had made the long trip back especially.  What a lovely man! 

Slightly worrying name for a fishing boat!

We all loved our day in Fornells.  It was everything I hoped a Spanish village would be and definitely a highlight of our stay on Menorca.

One day in Mao (Mahon), - Capital of Menorca

Tempting though it was to spend every day lazing around the pool we also wanted to explore this lovely island so it was "all aboard" the bus to Mao, or Mahon as it is also known. The bus trip from Port D'Addaia is long and circuitous but an ideal, cheap and comfortable way to see different parts of the island.

A working farm right in the middle of town

As our bus pulled into the centre of town we were astonished to see a fully working farm, complete with hay bales, tractors, donkeys and barns  surrounded by office buildings. No doubt the farm has been in a family for decades, if not hundreds of years and they're not moving for anyone!  We were off for a stroll down the hill towards the harbour on the attractive, pedestrianised main street. We stopped here and there to drool at pastry shop windows or to try on the very comfortable, local avarca sandals, worn by everyone, man, woman and child, on the island, it seems. Our happy small fry enjoyed the occasional ice cream stop, some of the adults did too, just quietly!

Main street of Mao

Avarca sandals used as planters

Strategically important in the Mediterranean, Mao has been fought over, and occupied at various times, by the English, French and Spanish who have each left their mark on the architecture making it a pretty town with attractive buildings. While under British rule, in the 18th century, Mao became  the administrative capital of Menorca and with a population of just 30,000  it is big enough to be interesting and small enough to be pleasant.

The historic centre of Mao

The town Hall

Nearing the boat harbour the town opens out at a square housing two churches, the town hall and the fish market, the historic centre of Mao. High cliffs dotted with mysterious caves tower over the broad, elegant staircase leading down to the water where we were heading to take a cruise on what is the largest natural harbour in the Mediterranean. It is sheltered and scenic and we enjoyed the passing scenery of  attractive villas lining the slopes, mussel farms in sheltering bays and the English arsenal, with its bright red paint contrasted against the greenery.

A view over the inner harbour

Picturesque ancient, rustic cottages nestle amongst the shrubbery and I spotted a house I'd love to live in built right out into the water accessed by its own causeway. We passed through the short St Jordi canal to the colossal 18th century La Mola fortress and also Lazareto quarantine island, built in the days when contagious diseases from sailors and travelers were rife. Our boat stopped at a sheltered bay for underwater fish viewing from the boat's glass bottomed chambers, pretty underwhelming, actually, but the lush sea plants were worth viewing. The cruise back passed a traditional Spanish windmill high on the sky line and the very pretty 18th century garrison town of Es Castell. I strongly recommend this cruise on Yellow Catamarans, it is an hour long and at 12 euro per adult and 6 euro per child, very good value.

I'd love to live in this house

Part of the La Mola Fortress

Traditional windmill - no one was tilting at it!

Charming little bay of Es Castell

Back ashore we headed to the Xoriguer gin factory, about 5 minutes walk along the waterfront.  All I can say is, what fun!  So many different flavours of gin and tastings are free.  Purely in the interest of research, well that's my excuse, we thought it important to try as many as we could but pretty quickly realised it was best to have just a teaspoon of each or we would have soon  been out on our ears.

Gin tasting heaven

We all enjoyed the Pomada which is lemon flavoured and usually drunk as a long summer drink.  We were having so much fun we suddenly realised we were in danger of missing the last bus of the day for Port D'Addaia. This necessitated a long sprint all the way up the sloping main street to the bus depot.  Thankfully we made it, hot sweaty and tired, and settled back into our seats to enjoy a much shorter route home followed by a cooling swim back at our villa. We had enjoyed our day in Mao but knew we would go back....there was more to see.

Menorca, Spain - A perfect family holiday in the sun

I'm used to planning  my own travel so  it was a real treat to have someone else decide on the destination for a change. My son and daughter-in-law had booked a family holiday to Menorca and invited lucky me to join them while I was visiting them in the UK.  I had never even heard of Menorca let alone been there so it was a real thrill to go on an unexpected holiday to somewhere new.

The marina at Port D'Addaia, Menorca

Menorca  is the smallest and most eastern of Spain's Balearic Islands.  It is also the quietest and most natural, making it a perfect family destination. Popular activities on the island are aquatic sports, hiking, horse riding or just chilling out and if archaeology is your thing there are more than1500 archaeological sites on the island dating from the Talayotic era. Then, of course, there is the crystal clear water lapping golden beaches, bars for sampling sangria and tapas and quaint small towns and villages to stroll around and soak up a bit of Catalan atmosphere. My diary says 'First impressions of the island - green, largely rural, traditional white, tiled farmhouses, stone walls, donkeys and hay bales, lovely."

Our villa at Port D'Addaia

As a family of five, including two young children, renting a villa seemed to be the best option for us.  Ours was in the  village of Port D'Addaia on the northern side of the island, and it was perfect. Set in a quiet, leafy street of stand alone houses  Villa Sonja has a private garden and a lovely swimming pool. Within minutes of arriving my grandson was happily splashing around in the  pool and as far as he was concerned the pool was the very best thing about this holiday.

Endless hours of fun in the pool

As for the adults, relaxation was immediate. There was wine to sample, paella to eat, books to read....bliss.  My daughter in law is a wonder at discovering all sorts of local delicacies and made sure we got to sample the local meats, cheeses, wines etc.  It was fun ticking them off her list. Port D'Addaia is a sleepy place consisting of a couple of restaurants, a gift shop, a small supermarket and a bar,  and I  loved it.  My days started with a cup of coffee on the balcony looking out on a rustic farmyard, the only sounds, bird calls and a gentle murmur  in the fragrant pines bordering the property.  Then it was off up to the village to buy the  huge, fluffy, sweet rolls called ensaimadas, the traditional Menorcan breakfast.  I enjoyed queuing up with the locals in the village shop waiting for these sugar dusted delights to come out of the oven and  saying good morning,"Bon dia"in the local dialect, to the shop assistant.

My grand daughter enjoying her huge breakfast ensaimada, hot from the oven

Some days we went sight seeing around the island, some days we stayed around the villa and relaxed or took a stroll down the hill to the marina past beautiful white washed villas, their gardens resplendent with pink and red oleander and bougainvillea tumbling over walls. 

Port D'Addaia gardens were a vibrant display of oleander and bougainvillea

One afternoon we sat at the small open air bar at the marina, sipping beer and sharing tall tales, another afternoon in the large friendly bar in the village, it was just delightful. Since our villa had no internet connection it was a wonderful excuse to head to the village bar for a cold drink and a chance to use their wifi - purely for research purposes, you understand.  So there you have it, a brief introduction to Menorca.  There is more to come.....

Delicious, authentic paella

Long, lazy lunches at our villa

Photography and the Solo Traveller

Most of my travel photos don't include me.  That's probably not a bad thing but I have found that unless a photo is really good scenery can look a bit dull without human interest in it. Also, it's always fun to show that you were actually there when you are bragging back home. I try, when I can, to include people in my shots but preferably not me.    Nevertheless, in order to prove my adventures, I make sure there are a few shots of me included somewhere amongst my stacks of photos. In the beginning I took selfies with an extended arm.  Oh dear!  Every wrinkle looked ten times worse, or maybe there  really is truth in the saying "The camera never lies"!
As a solo traveler getting selfies can be tricky, especially if, like me, you are not a fan of selfie sticks.  From trial and error I have come up with a few tips which work for me.  Feel free to add some of your own in the comments section, I'm always keen to hear handy tips.

Puhoi River New Zealand I took this photo with my arm extended on a kayaking trip.  Yep, too many wrinkles! 

 

Ask strangers 

This is my favourite tip.  I often ask strangers to take my photo and I have found that far from being irritated they are flattered. I know there have been reports of people stealing cameras once they get hold of them so it is a case of following your instincts when you ask.  I usually look for a happy family group or an older couple but having said that I have found any age group happy to oblige and have never had my camera stolen....so far. As a part time tour guide in Auckland I am often asked to take tourists' photos.  It is a pleasure to oblige.

Den Gamle By, Denmark.  This photo was taken by a kindly stranger

Use the timer

 

This is my second favourite way to include myself in a photo. Most cameras have a timer option nowadays so this is easy to do after a bit of practice. Just find a ledge or stable spot to place your camera, carefully work out the shot you want, set the timer and get into position Voila!

I used a timer to take this shot at Katherine Gorge, Northern Territory, Australia.  
 

Employ reflective surfaces

 

Mirrors, sculptures, water - anything with a reflective surface can be used to put yourself in the shot

Lisbon, Portugal. This was an early, and less than successful, attempt to use a reflective surface, partly because the surface was mirror tiled and not very clean.  Lesson learned - examine the surface first.

 Ask Fellow Travelers to oblige

 

This is never a problem.  I have done a lot of traveling alone but have also traveled as a solo in a group.  If you offer to take someone's photo they will always take yours in return.

This photo was taken by a fellow traveler on a tour of Turkey .  I like this photo because although I am there it is the setting that counts

 Include only part of your body in the shot

Set the scene and the feeling you want to portray  by including just part of your body in the photo, as I have done in this photo taken on a recent cruise.

Ahhh, bliss, relaxing and reading on a cruise ship with only my feet in frame - setting the scene

Have fun experimenting.  Solo travel is fun and there is no need to miss out on a few precious photos with yourself in them.  And please feel free to pass on any clever tips you may have

I went up to London to visit the Queen

Well, not the Queen exactly but her house, Buckingham Palace. The palace is open to the public for only a few weeks of summer each year while the Queen is away and my daughter-in-law and I had tickets to visit, thanks to my generous son.  I was pretty excited to be setting foot inside this famous residence, something I never thought I would do. I have watched, with nose pressed against the iron railings and thousands of other tourists, the changing of the guard on a couple of occasions so it felt rather bizarre to be walking right in through the palace doors. Tickets are sold on a timed entry basis which controls the crowds and makes for a more pleasant experience.  We arrived early so killed a bit of time looking through the palace gift shop crammed with fine china and the ubiquitous boxes of chocolates, packets of biscuits, tea and assorted souvenirs.  Then through airport style security and armed with a multi media device, in to the palace. The tour covers 19 state rooms, these are the rooms  used extensively by the Queen and royal family for official occasions and to meet and entertain both subjects and dignitaries. Used as the official Royal residence only since 1837, Buckingham Palace was originally a much smaller house which was demolished then a new house was built which has been added to over many years. Much of the furniture, art and glittering chandeliers were bought by George IV to furnish his home when he was Prince of Wales.

The Queen's stunning coronation gown, patterned with  motifs from UK
 and Commonwealth countries.  Note the tiny waist.

This year, to celebrate the Queen's 90th birthday, there is a display of her clothing  from childhood  including her wedding gown, her coronation gown, both utterly stunning, and then on through many ball gowns and street wear worn for formal occasions and visits.  I was intrigued at how tiny her waist was as a young woman. Each garment was accompanied by a large photo of the Queen wearing it. Also on display were dozens of her hats. It was a fantastic display of fashion and style through the decades, showcasing top British fashion designers and all worn by one person.


The tour of the Palace was extensive and wonderful.  Things that stood out for me were:

The White Drawing Room. The large mirror to the left is hinged to conceal a door which allows the Queen discreet access to the room

• The sweeping staircase leading up from the front entry designed with deliberately shallow steps to make it look longer and grander
• The throne room, familiar from formal and wedding portraits of the royal family
• The White Drawing Room which is absolutely magnificent and is where the Queen meets visiting heads of state.  It is familiar from television shots. 
• The Art Gallery bursting with paintings by Rembrandt, Van Dyke, Canaletto, Reynolds, Rubens and many others
• The sculpture gallery including works by Canova
• The glorious chandeliers, incredibly ornate ceilings and rare, fine china by Sevres
• The feeling that this is a palace with life in it.  I have been to many stately homes and there is usually a  lifeless, museum quality to them.  Buckingham Palace was different, it felt lived in but nevertheless fresh and immaculate.



The Throne Room - where Royal wedding photos are taken

I absolutely loved this tour.  The personal commentary was perfect and every time I felt I had seen all the wonderful rooms there were to see, there was another one.  I was fizzing about it for days afterwards. Photography inside the palace is not permitted , the photos here are copyright free via the internet.  You can take your own virtual tour if you go to You Tube and key in this address:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8KBgW8c_Mk

Outside the palace we had the opportunity to admire the beautiful and extensive park like grounds, complete with lake and I think if I lived in the palace that is where I would spend most of my time, so quiet, so peaceful and right in the heart of London. Photography is permitted in the grounds so the following photos are my own.

Do take this tour if you are in London in August or September, you won't be disappointed.  It was certainly a highlight of my trip to London.

The rear of the palace, overlooking the grounds

Left: Part of the gardens and lake




Right: That's me at the rear of the palace

Cute little ice cream shop in the Palace grounds