The Breakaways - The Ghan Adventure continued

Australian Dog Fence

One of the very best things about travel is discovering new and amazing places you never knew existed. For me travel is always about finding out what is around the next corner. You could say I'm addicted to it.  And what a surprise was waiting "around the corner" when we left Coober Pedy and drove further out into the desert alongside the famous Australian Dog Fence. Sometimes known as the Dingo Fence, it looks just like an ordinary wire fence but at 5,500 kms long, is also the longest man-made structure in the world. Built in the 1880s to protect ranchers from dingo attacks on their cattle it has proved to be successful despite the many ingenious ways the dingos try to breach it. An Australian icon and a symbol of man's endurance in a harsh environment the Dog Fence has featured in novels, movies and folk legend.

The stunning Breakaways landscape

As interesting as the Dog Fence was that wasn't the thrilling part of this trip, that honour goes to The Breakaways. I had never heard of this spectacular ancient  landscape, an inland sea 70 to 100 million years ago, located 33kms north of Coober Pedy.  Known as Umoona by the Antakirinja Matuntjara Yankunytjatara Aboriginal people, who are the traditional owners and custodians of the area, it is now a desert landscape which endures very high summer temperatures and very cold nights. The name, The Breakaways, comes from the fact that the series of dramatic flat topped mountains in the area had broken away from the main mountain range many millions of years ago. The mountains range in colour from chalky white to gold to russet and all colours in between. The scenery is nothing short of sensational and I was gob smacked. What an absolutely unexpected thrill and definitely one of those "round the corner" discoveries.

Our coach drove to the top of one of the mountains where we had time to drink in the amazing views and take photograph after photograph. We also had time to drink a glass of bubbly because, much to our delight, a table had been set up, complete with waiter and wine, especially for us. We were all so enthralled by the views that even the pesky, sticky, Aussie flies didn't dampen our spirits.

 Keen movie viewers would recognise the landscape from Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, Mad Max 3 and Red Planet. This visit to The Breakaways was something really special...a must do if you ever visit Coober Pedy.

Delighted with my "round the corner" discovery

Back at the train we were welcomed with more drinks and finger food set out at lantern lit tables in the red desert landscape. Everyone was on a high as we mixed and mingled and shared our delighted thoughts of the day.  The perfect way to spend the last evening of The Ghan trip.

Coober Pedy, the Opal Town - The Ghan Adventure continued

Well I have to say Coober Pedy must be the most unusual, funkiest town I have ever visited.  It was the first time I had been to a town which has mining as its whole purpose, and where many, if not most, of it's inhabitants live underground to escape the searing heat of Australian desert summers. This certainly makes for  an interesting place.

Mining camp, Coober Pedy

     The Ghan stopped way out in the middle of the desert at a place called Manguri Siding and then it was about an hour by bus to Coober Pedy.  First indications that we were getting close to town were the conical piles of mine tailings heaped row upon row amidst  rusty old trucks whose motors are used to power the blowers for the mines. It's a kind of wild west sort of place, dusty and untidy with piles of abandoned, broken down equipment and machinery here and there.

Mountains of mine tailings

Inside St Elijah's Church

 But there is beauty as we discovered at our first stop, the Serbian, Orthodox church of St Elijah, built underground into the side of a hill.   This was an amazing revelation - carefully excavated from cool, creamy rock with elaborate stained glass and carvings and a calm, peaceful atmosphere.  Our next stop, at an opal mine, was more prosaic but no less interesting. Here, suitably kitted out in hard hats, we were shown how opals are mined.  As with all mining it is pretty back breaking work but a good opal find must be very exciting. We had a lunch of food and wine seated at long tables right within the mine - very atmospheric. Afterwards we had time to tour the adjoining museum and art gallery before our next, and I must say, keenly anticipated, stop, an opal shop.



Coober Pedy's Raison d'etre

                                                                                 I was mesmerised by the variety, colours and fire in the opals on display and can understand how mining for them becomes a "thrill of the chase" and somewhat addictive.  Many of us bought opals, including me.  An extravagance I know but I don't expect to be back in Coober Pedy any time soon.                                                                                

Inside an underground house

                                                                                                                                                                  It was intriguing to look through a couple of underground homes; one a no longer used miner's shanty, basic but comfortable, and the other a quite large family home.  I was surprised at how spacious it was with all mod cons and even a chandelier but I know I would find it disconcerting to have to rely on a clock to tell me whether it was daytime or not. 
The beauty of these underground homes is that they are a constant, comfortable 21 degrees all year round while, outside, the summers can be searingly hot, up to 51 degrees, and the winter nights, bitterly cold.

Coober Pedy's "Boot Hill'

                                                                                                                                                              We had a good look around the town, weaving around the residential streets, noting the number of homes by the number of  air vents peppering the small hills.  We even called in at the local cemetery, a real "Boot Hill", with its makeshift headstones of beer kegs and mining equipment. 

A number of homes are under this hill

I am so pleased I went to Coober Pedy.  I found it extraordinary although there is no way I would want to live there.  Our tour guide was a German who said he had arrived in the town, to mine, 40 odd years ago and fell in love with it.  He has never wanted to leave.  On my way home from Australia I met a very friendly woman who shared her airport taxi with me.  She said she had a two year teaching contract in Coober Pedy and was loving every minute of her time there and could happily stay forever.  So, there you go, what do I know?



Recipes - Aussie Outback Bush Tucker (refreshments)

They breed them tough in the Aussie outback - strong, resourceful people who know how to make do, still, their essentials for life are the same as anybody's - a cup of tea and a bit of fresh bread, oh, and a comfortable swag to roll out under the stars.  Here are some genuine recipes from the Australian bush, staples for the Aussie bushman.

BILLY TEA

• First make your fire.  NB: What ever you do, don't start a bush fire.
• Get a billy.  A billy is a tin can with a handle.  In the early days  they were empty bully beef cans, but now you can buy them or, if you are a true bushman, make your own from a large fruit can with a wire handle
• Fill the can 2/3rds with water
• Toss in a handful of tea leaves
• Hang it over the fire
• Leave to brew to your satisfaction
• Lift off with a stick and swing the billy around your body 3 times.  Yes, I know this sounds ridiculous and requires some practice but it makes the leaves drop to the bottom.  BE CAREFUL! and don't do it near children
• Sit back and drink and it is essential to let out a great big "Aaaah" after your first sip

BEER DAMPER

Ingredients:
3 cups self raising flour - ahem - a true bush man wouldn't have anything as fancy as self raising!
1tsp bicarbonate of soda
Pinch salt
50gms butter
2 cups of beer, any kind

• Mix flour, baking soda and salt together
• Rub in butter
• Mix in beer until just combined, don't over mix or it will be tough
• Put into a greased billy and cook over the camp fire until done
• If you don't live in the outback you can bake in an oven at 180C or 350F for 25 - 30 minutes
• Best served with great dollops of butter, billy tea, tall tales and a sing along around the camp fire
• Can be used to mop up bush stew or smothered in golden syrup for desert
• ENJOY and as they say in the outback "bonza, mate"

Wild life and a genuine Aussie Outback BBQ - Ghan Adventure continued

Along with several other Ghan passengers I had chosen to spend the afternoon at the Alice Springs Desert Park, a wildlife park nestled at the base of the MacDonnell Ranges. There we were met by a Park Ranger and shown into a cinema for a brief introduction to the plants and wildlife of the park.  Australia has a rich and wildly varied animal and plant life and I found the film interesting but the best thing of all happened right at the end when the giant screen dropped down to reveal massive panoramic windows and a stunning view up to the MacDonnell Ranges bathed in golden sunlight and towering above us.  I have never seen anything like that before, definitely a "wow" moment.  

The scene behind the screen - this photo
 doesn't do it justice

A captivating talk from this Park Ranger

                    I was lucky enough to join a tour led by an Aboriginal park ranger and was completely spell bound by his tales of how Aborigines find water and track animals. It was truly fascinating . The park is an authentic desert landscape and contains more than 200 desert animals, including kangaroos, emus and dingoes, and 400 plants.  There are also a number of walk through aviaries and a nocturnal house where I saw, for the first time, the cute, scurrying, desert bilby and mala. It was an absorbing place to while away the afternoon. Late in the day the Ghan passengers were special guests at a bird show.  This was remarkable with birds perfectly trained to fly in and out of the arena on cue, swooping so low over our heads that we could feel the wind from their wings. And high above, wild eagles circled the MacDonnell Ranges.

The bird show

A dingo

The Outback Barbecue with tree stump seats

                                                                                                                                                            That evening we were guests at a "genuine" Aussie barbecue held in an old quarry, 20 minutes from Alice Springs, now converted into a barbeque venue. It was like stepping onto the set of McLeod's Daughters with all the Australiana scattered around - a traditional outback windmill, stacks of fire wood, an old wagon and implements, blazing camp fires,and pretty staff in checked shirts and acubra hats. Nevertheless, it still maintained a natural, not overly commercialised feel.  It was a beautiful evening and we enjoyed drinks and nibbles bathed in the rays of the setting sun.

 Left: A perfect outback BBQ setting

Right: Riding a camel

Below: Barbeque time!





                                                                                             There were two camels available to ride so of course, you know me, I had to have a ride. Good fun! Dinner was served in a huge corrugated iron barn with a sand floor - man sized steaks, baked potatoes and salads followed by apple crumble and cream while we were entertained by a  balladeer singing outback songs and by a very humorous presentation on how to make damper, or bush bread. Then it was time to head back outside to sit around the camp fires and be serenaded with well known Australian songs, including, of course, Waltzing Matilda. 

Most people joined in and the feeling was one of great friendship and camaraderie. All in all this was a magical night.  There was only one disappointment - a cloud cover which hid the stars, said to be sensational way out in the desert, but everything else was fantastic, so I'm not complaining!

Alice Springs, Australia - The Ghan Adventure continued

Alice Springs from Anzac Hill

The morning dawned with a glorious outback sunrise and before long we had arrived at our second destination, Alice Springs. Alice, as it is commonly known, is in the  geographical centre of Australia, midway between Darwin and Adelaide.  It is a
desert town, now primarily involved in tourism, with a population between 20,000 and 28,000 depending on the season. It is also home to the outback Flying Doctor service.

The Ghan stretched out through the middle of town

I had imagined Alice to be dusty, dry and slightly shabby so was pleasantly surprised to find it a fresh, attractive, tidy town, albeit one with a number of social problems. After a drive through the township our coach took us up to the top of Anzac Hill, passing memorials to every war Australia has been involved in, for a magnificent view over the township and to the majestic MacDonell ranges beyond.

Murals celebrating the history of transport in and around Alice adorn walls in the town.

A road train (truck with many trailers) passes through Alice

Alice began life as a service town for the surrounding farming stations and grew in size during World War 2 when thousands were evacuated there from Darwin which was under attack by the Japanese.  Nevil Shute wrote an acclaimed  book, later adapted as a play and a movie, called A Town Like Alice.  This brought fame to the town although Alice itself hardly features in the book.

The dry, dusty, waterless Todd River

Two popular real dinkum Aussie events are held in Alice annually; the Camel Cup where jockeys on camels race each other,  and the Henley-on-Todd regatta, a boat race on the completely dry Todd river where contestants carry their boats and indulge in mock battles armed with flour bombs and water cannons.  It sounds like a lot of fun and  is a hugely successful fundraiser for the local Rotary Club. It is also the only boating regatta in the world which is cancelled if there is water in the river as happened in 1993.  The river does occasionally have water in it but it is usually only briefly after heavy rain in the wet season.



Next we headed 4 kilometres out of town to the Telegraph Station. Dating from 1871 the telegraph station is the site of the first European settlement in the area.  The station was established to send messages between Darwin and Adelaide and also became the first line of communication between Australia and England.  It is located beside the Todd River and the springs, now dry, which Alice is named for.  The station site boasts beautiful warm golden, stone colonial buildings with wide verandahs and it was a delightful surprise to find tables set out for us complete with white linen table cloths and a buffet lunch befitting a wedding reception. Lunch was delicious but here, for the first time, we experienced the famous Aussie flies and by the end of lunch had become quite adept at the "Aussie Salute".  After lunch there was time for an exploration of the property and surrounds before heading off to our next adventure which must wait until my next post.

Katherine and Nitmiluk National Park, Australia - The Ghan Adventure continued

A few hours out of Darwin we came to The Ghan's first stop, the small town of Katherine. With a population of about 10,000 Katherine is centred around mining, tourism and servicing the large Tindal  Air force base. Before heading to the Nitmiluk Gorge, about a half an hour out of town, our coach driver took us for a short drive through the town centre.  He was very proud of the fact that Katherine had a McDonalds, a Coffee Club and a Subway as if keen to prove that this was a buzzing, go ahead, place, nevertheless, it still seemed to be quiet and sleepy,
                                                                                 although a pleasant enough town.  

Arriving at Nitmiluk we alighted the coach under trees thick with squawking bats.  Urggh!  I am not a fan. Fortunately the bats only perch in a couple of trees so it was a great incentive for us to move away pretty quickly and down to the jetty to board boats for a cruise. 

The Nitmiluk (meaning 'place of the cicada dreaming') National Park is home to the indigenous Jaowyn people who are custodians of the park.  The  flowing Katherine River has carved a network of 13 gorges out of the sandstone rock over a period of 23 million years. Our cruise through these high, golden rock cliffs, was awesome in the true sense of the word. The clean, clear water is home to fresh water crocodiles, which we spotted basking on rocks as sea eagles soared high above us over the cliffs.  Here and there we noticed small sandy beaches specially conserved as crocodile breeding grounds. Fresh water crocodiles live on fish and do not attack people unless they walk on their breeding grounds. From time to time salt water crocodiles, or salties as they are locally known, that do attack people, are found in the river and are captured and taken back to sea. 

Ancient Aboriginal rock art

In the beautiful Katherine Gorge

At the end of the first gorge we left our boat and walked a short distance  to board another boat to cruise the second gorge, stopping on the way to look at aboriginal rock art, dating back 40,000 years. If we had thought the scenery in the first gorge was wonderful we were absolutely blown away by the spectacular scenery in the second gorge.  Ancient, timeless, and stunningly  beautiful. A famous Australian film, Jedda, was filmed there in the 1950s.  It is places like the Nitmiluk Gorge that make you feel insignificant in the world.

The second gorge which is spectacular with cliffs much higher than a photograph can convey

We retraced both cruises to board the bus back and head back to the train.  I had read about Katherine Gorge about 30 years ago in a travel book and since then had  wanted to visit.  So...another thing ticked off my "to do" list and, even better, it had surpassed my expectations.

This you tube clip: https://youtu.be/JsXKpp3af40   is of the cruises we took, although we did them in the reverse order to this film.  The film does not quite convey the majesty and awesomeness of these gorges but it does give an indication.  If you watch carefully you will see the small sandy beaches kept exclusively for the fresh water crocodiles breeding grounds.

The Ghan Adventure - Australia's Great Train Journey

Excited!  A dream come true.

 I've always had this romantic idea of traveling one of the great rail journeys of the world and had talked about taking The Ghan for years but never quite got around to doing it. At last I got my act together and booked a trip for a few weeks ago which, unbeknown to me, was the Ghan's inaugural four day adventure trip from Darwin to Adelaide. Although this was the first "adventure" the iconic Ghan has rumbled through Outback Australia since 1929 - between Adelaide and Alice Springs and between Adelaide and Darwin since 2004. 

  I was literally bubbling with excitement when the shuttle bus arrived at my hotel to take me, along with a number of others, on the 15 minute trip to the railway station.  And there she was, The Ghan, all 700 plus metres of her, sparkling silver in the dazzling sun.  The train, which takes its name from Australia's early pioneering Afghani camel drivers, is so long that the shuttle bus drives along beside it dropping passengers off at their respective carriages where they are each greeted by their personal carriage attendant.


Once aboard a very warm welcome and tea and biscuits awaited in my cabin plus information on the various off train tours available.  The beauty of this adventure trip is that all food, drink and off train tours are included in the fare meaning that in  the four days I was aboard I never spent another dollar.  The cabins are immaculate, compact and very well designed so that there is a place for everything including a tiny, but thoroughly workable, en suite bathroom.  I sat in my room, happily sipping my tea and reading the tour information until, once all were aboard, we moved off.  Then it was time to explore the lounge, a wonderful place to meet fellow passengers.  With a glass of bubbly in hand I sat and chatted to all sorts of friendly, interesting people.  They were mainly Australian but there were a fair few New Zealanders, some Americans, Canadians and a couple of young tourists from France and Germany.  Everyone was happy and excited and looking forward to their Out Back adventure.  The barman was pretty busy I can tell you!

Meal times were allocated in shifts and Robyn, the restaurant manager, was a

magician, skilfully organising tables of four for every sitting.  One of the things I most enjoyed was dining with different people at every meal. It was an opportunity to have great conversations over a meal and a glass of wine, something I often miss as a solo traveler.   The food, prepared by on board chefs, was superb and the service friendly and efficient. I dined on all sorts of wonderful Australian food over the four days including crocodile, kangaroo, barramundi, and a desert of roulade with wattle seeds. After dinner most guests retired to the lounge carriage for more drinks or coffee and lively conversation. The passing scenery is not exciting, the outback is vast and flat dotted with scrubby bushes but the sunrises are spectacular.  We saw a few ant hills at the start of the trip and then just very similar scenery for hour after hour but I don't think the passing scenery is the point of this trip.  It is the on board life, the food and the tours arranged at each destination which make it marvelous.  Because this was the inaugural four day adventure trip a camera crew from an Australian television station traveled with us for the whole trip as did a still photographer.  Many people were interviewed but I managed to avoid it, thankfully.

My lounge seat converted to a bunk

Back at my cabin at the end of each evening I found there had been a transformation.  My day time lounge seat had been converted into a very comfortable single bunk, complete with chocolate on the pillow.  So it was off to sleep to the gentle rocking and clacking wheels of the Ghan.  Sweet dreams indeed.

The Ghan stretches into the distance