Aarhus, Denmark - A sentimental journey

I particularly enjoy travel with a purpose.  When I worked on my family tree I enjoyed visiting ancestral villages and towns, I revelled in the art in Italy when I was studying art,  Canterbury when I studied the Canterbury Tales and various locations when I was studying ethnic music.  So it was that, with a spring in my step, I set out for Copenhagen railway station to catch the train to Aarhus. 



Danish countryside

Aarhus was a city my parents lived in for some months in the late 1960s and about which my mother wrote an excellent book - "It Was Better In Winter" by Joyce Reid, now no longer in print.
I was looking forward to seeing the Danish countryside and, of course, finally getting to see the city my mother had written about so eloquently.  The train trip took 2 hours and 50 minutes and, to be frank, the countryside was less than exciting being relentlessly flat with just the odd interesting building or bridge along the way.

Interesting Danish architecture

  I enjoyed the trip, though,  lost in my thoughts and entertained by the calm, patient, young woman opposite me who was knitting a glove.  She knitted it, made a mistake, unpicked it, knitted it again, made another mistake, unpicked it, knitted it again.....over and over until, when she finally left the train after a couple of hours, all she had to show for her efforts was a large ball of wool. 

Aarhus Opera House

Arriving in Aarhus was exciting.  From the moment I left the train I began to spot landmarks my mother had mentioned in her book and my previous fears that much would have changed in the 40 odd years since my parents lived there were allayed.  I found my central hotel easily and immediately set off to find the hotel my parents had lived in for the duration of their visit.  A short walk through the city centre, past the
elegant opera house and the imposing cathedral and down to the waterfront onto Skolebakken and there it was, exactly as she described it, although now rental apartments.  I felt quite emotional imagining my parents living there as I stood on the pavement they must have walked hundreds of times.   Right opposite the building was the Falck, or rescue service, station which my mother had described in detail.  A new office block has gone up on the waterfront but I think apart from that little has changed since they lived there.

Boat offering in Aarhus Domkirke

  I took photos and then walked back to the Cathedral or Domkirke, with its red brick exterior and  cool, bright white interior and the ubiquitous boat hanging from the ceiling.  These boats were traditionally donated to churches by sailors as an offering for a safe trip home.

My mother loved to stroll the quaint narrow  streets behind their hotel with their brightly painted, half timbered houses all leaning higgledy piggledy against each other and I loved it too. 

Many of the buildings house trendy shops, art galleries and coffee bars but, once again, I think little has changed. I spent quite some time in this old picturesque part of town, peering through narrow openings between buildings into quaint timeless courtyards and strolling over the cobble stones happily snapping photos.


The quaint cobbled streets of Aarhus

Cafes line the canal in central Aarhus

  Eventually it was time to head back to meet my son and his family who were coming from Copenhagen on a later train.  I spotted them as I walked up the main shopping street and we spent the rest of the afternoon strolling around the inner city together before relaxing over a dinner of tapas and wine.  I was delighted with Aarhus and marvelled at how accurately my mother had portrayed it in her book.  Yes, as far as I was concerned, travelling with a purpose was totally satisfying and there was much more to look forward to.

Waiheke - Headland Sculptures on the Gulf 2015

In my post, " Waiheke Island - Headland Sculpture on the Gulf", (2/14/2013), I described  my visit to this biennial sculpture exhibition located on a glorious headland of the island.  At the end of the post I said that although it was my first visit to the event it wouldn't be my last.  So, true to my word, last week, together with my good friend, Pat, I headed out on the ferry,  to walk the two and a half kilometre sculpture trail while also enjoying plenty of sunshine and stunning scenery. 

Matiatia, Waiheke Island, from the sculpture trail

There are 31 sculptures and installations along the trail which winds its way over hillsides and through bush land. Some of the exhibits are challenging, some beautiful, some amusing and all creative. The event runs from 23 January to February 15. Here is a selection from the sculptures on this year's trail. 

No 21 by Angus Muir and Alexandra Heaney Field Apart. 

36 mirror columns with 144 mirrors reflect the ever changing sky and sea.  A fascinating and surreal experience for visitors to walk through.

No 8 by Scott Eady Princess XL (fountain #1)

This work was inspired by a young boy playing with a marrow in the garden.  The marrow and water represent food and life for Scott's family.

 

No 15 by Audrey Boyle the knot not and the not now.

This photo shows only part of what is a long fence of Dacron coated wire.  It is an interactive sculpture where the viewer is invited to tie new knots in the fence.  The fence represents the journey of life with its successes and sorrows.

No 27 by Jane and Mario Downes Stop the Clock

This  kinetic sculpture of three dandelion heads at different points in time recall childhood memories of the playful use of dandelions to tell the time.  It is set on a headland to catch the wind.

 

No 4 by James Wright Target 

 Life is full of challenges and sometime it takes a while to reach your goal.  This sculpture says "persevere and you will reach your target"

 

No 9 by Robert Jahnke and Joshua Campbell Tawhirowhiro   

 

 Tawhirowhiro means to spin or rotate in Maori.  Carved in wood which has been carbon charred it relies on the reflections in the stainless steel base and the swirling carved patterns to convey an impression of movement





 

 

No 19 by Anah Dunsheath My Pic is my Bond  

An ironic look at the current craze for celebrity selfies and, just to get into the spirit of things you understand, I simply had to have one of my own with Sean Connery                                             

 
 
Walkers strolling past No 27 Stop the Clock

There wasn't a breath of wind on this day so the dandelions were stock still, as you can see.

  

 
No 14 by Veronica Herber Landform as seen from the ferry

This installation, based on the contour lines used in mapping, was intended to provide a connection to the land while the viewer was still at sea. 





 The Sculpture exhibition is organised by a committee, supported by sponsors and 200 volunteers.  It is free to the public, however, donations are welcome.   It is a perfect day out and I highly recommend it.  I can't wait for  the next one in two years time.  For more information about Waiheke and the sculpture trail refer to my post of  2/14/2013 and their website as below.

 www.sculptureonthegulf.co.nz

Summer in the city, Auckland city, that is

I love summer in the city.  When the city empties out and everyone heads to the beach I prefer to be around town.  I have always felt this way. When our children were young we would take them on a beach holiday in mid December, returning in time for Christmas.  This worked perfectly - the holiday resorts were uncluttered and peaceful and it was delicious to lie soaking up the sun in the knowledge that we had avoided the pre Christmas mayhem in the city.  Once the city emptied out after Christmas it felt like we had it to ourselves, well, almost! 

View of Auckland city from the Waitemata Harbour

From Christmas to late January traffic on the roads is light, parking is easy to find and the whole of Auckland seems to be in a relaxed beach shorts and sandals kind of mood.

Auckland is a city of  loveliness, blessed as it is with a magnificent harbour, scattered with jewel-like  islands,  stunning beaches, some less than 10 minutes drive from the CBD, a diverse population, cool and shady bush walks within half an hour's drive, a wide selection of wineries to choose from and a vibrant café culture, so what's not to like?  There are a myriad of activities for stay at homes, like myself, or visitors, including any number of water based activities. This summer has been perfect with hot clear sunny days for the last five weeks, lifting everyone's spirits.

Betty Hoops, busker,
Auckland's 175 year celebration

Holiday in downtown

Visitors pass a photo of Auckland Harbour, 1906

This weekend Auckland celebrated 175 years since it became a city and all stops were pulled out to celebrate.  The downtown area was abuzz with activities as varied as free tours of the ports of Auckland, a Seafood Festival, a fireworks display over the harbour, the annual yachting regatta with over 1000 boats taking part, exhibitions of the history of Auckland, a buskers festival, a craft market, Laneway music festival, even the creation of a beachside sunning area transforming the Queen Elizabeth square downtown.  And this weekend was really only the start of many festivals to come over the next few weeks. As I said, what's not to like about Auckland in the summer? 

...and with glorious days come glorious sunsets (taken from my home)

Happy Christmas, everyone!

This is my last post for the year and is to wish everyone a Happy Christmas or a Happy Holiday, whichever you celebrate, and every best wish for 2015.

My local beach, St Heliers, festooned by Pohutukawa

Here, in New Zealand, Christmas coincides with the end of the school and working year and also with summer holidays. It is a time for family gatherings and many families  celebrate the day with a picnic or barbecue at the beach.  The Pohutukawa tree, a native of New Zealand, blooms in November and December and is known as the New Zealand Christmas tree.  Its flowers are stunning, adorning the beaches around the country in a festive blaze of scarlet.

My very best wishes to you all.  I'll see you next year!

Roskilde - a Viking town

Roskilde

A thirty minute train trip from Copenhagen is the picturesque town of Roskilde, population approx. 49,000.  From the moment I arrived I loved its pretty, laid back ambience, even going so far as to declare that I thought I could live there   Charming and all as the town was we were here on a mission to visit the Viking Museum,   so after a quick stroll through the wide pedestrianised main street we made our way down a verdant tree lined country lane to the museum set on the edge of the fjord.

Roskilde Fjord

My small grandson had been reading about Vikings and imagining their lives and battles so was very excited but, in fact, we were all full of curious anticipation.  The Museum is in two halves, the Boat Yard, a living museum  where traditional crafts from the Viking era are practised, and the Viking Ship Hall, where recovered Viking ships are on display.

Boat building using Viking tools and methods

It was fascinating to watch the craftsmen and women at the  Boat Yard making ropes, basket weaving, textile making, working the black smith's forge and, of course, boat building, all using traditional methods and replica tools from the Viking era. I love crafts, especially traditional crafts, so was very happy whiling away quite some time there. The Boat Yard harbour is home to many replica Viking craft as well as small fishing craft from the Faroe Islands and my grandson was beside himself with delight when allowed to board a full sized replica Viking Ship tied up at the jetty.

My grandson beside the replica Viking ship

Inside the Viking Ship Hall

Near by, at the Viking Ship Hall,  five full sized Viking ships are on display.
Built in 1997 the building itself is listed as a fine example of late modernist architecture but, be warned, baby buggy access is exceedingly difficult and appears not to be encouraged. It was well worth the effort it took to get our buggy into the museum, however, as to actually see real Viking ships was a first for us and quite amazing.  The five ships are known as the Skuldelev ships and are stunningly displayed in an austere hall with large windows overlooking the fjord.  Late in the 11th century these ships were scuttled in the entrance to the fjord to form a barrier to protect Roskilde from attack by enemies.  They were raised from the sea in the 1960s and a long and arduous preservation and repair process was undertaken before they were put on display.  They  represent five different types of ships; an ocean going trader, a great longship, a coastal trader, a small longship and a fishing vessel.  There is much of interest in the shipping hall, apart from the ships.  There are displays of artifacts, information on the Vikings and a childrens' role playing area where my grandson got in the spirit of things dressing like a Viking and happily waving a toy sword around.

Roskilde Cathedral or Domkirke

Eventually we retraced our steps back to the township stopping in at the Roskilde Cathedral, or Domkirke, almost as an afterthought and we were so pleased we did.  The Cathedral, built in the 12th to 13th centuries in red brick gothic style is a UNESCO world heritage site and the burial place of Denmark's monarchs and bishops.  The interior is light and starkly white since the original brightly coloured frescoes were painted over at the time of the reformation, although there are a couple of very small areas which have been uncovered to show how colourful it must once have been.

Tomb of Frederik 5, died 1766

 Sadly the original stained glass windows were lost in a major fire in 1443 and were replaced with clear glass.  The tombs of the Kings and Queens of Denmark are worth seeing as they reflect the different styles and attitudes of their eras.  We were all rather taken aback to see the tomb being prepared for the current Queen, Margrethe 2.  Apparently it will take a couple of years to prepare and they want to be ready! Her tomb will be stunning and very modern.

Ornate tomb, Roskilde Cathedral

And so to the  heart of  town again for tea and cakes at a delightfully pretty little café and gift shop and then, too soon, we were reluctantly leaving Roskilde,  happy, nevertheless to be returning to Copenhagen.

I highly recommend a visit to Roskilde.  Not only is it a lovely town but I consider both the Viking Museum and the Domkirke amongst Denmark's "must sees". It is also a very easy trip by train from Copenhagen.

Malmo, Sweden - a good day out

Coming, as I do, from New Zealand, a small country at the bottom of the world and at least a two hour flight across the sea to any other country, it is always a thrill for me to travel from one country to another on land.  It never ceases to amaze me how the simple act of crossing a border can take you into an entirely different world with a new culture, language, food and architecture.  Since I was spending a few days in Copenhagen with my son and his family, the chance to travel into Sweden for a day was too good an opportunity to miss.  Denmark and Sweden have forever gazed across the sea at each other, (Malmo was originally part of Denmark but was ceded to Sweden in 1658) however they are now, at last, joined by the magnificent dual road/train Oresund bridge, all 16 kilometres of it, which includes a tunnel for part of the way.

                                    Oresund Bridge                   Photo by Fpo74

 Opened in the year 2000 the 20 minute trip across the bridge has made it possible for people to live in one country and work in the other and for tourists like us to enjoy  a train trip across the sea. Malmo is Sweden's third largest city.  It was heavily industrialised until the 1990s when it was hit by the Swedish financial crisis resulting in the closure of many industries and the loss of 27,000 jobs. Fortunately the new Malmo university campus on the river's edge and a burgeoning IT industry are slowly bringing vibrancy and life back into the city.



Turning torso

  Our first stop in Malmo was at the canal cruising depot where we booked a tour around the city and harbour.  It was my idea to take the cruise thinking it would give us a good overview of the city before exploring by foot, but within a few minutes of the cruise starting I began to feel I had made a mistake.  The cruise headed out into the harbour past the usual ugly, port, industrial buildings, some in a seriously derelict state.  Nevertheless, there were a couple of things  to see, worthy of note, firstly the attractive light house at the entry to the harbour and secondly the amazing "turning torso" building, Scandinavia's tallest skyscraper, a spectacular feat of engineering and the pride of Malmo. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Elegant mansions line the canal

 
 
 
 

 
I was relieved when the boat made its way back to the canal running through the city to show us Malmo's  pretty side.  We passed attractive tall, old mansions and townhouses lining the canal and the large leafy Kings Park  with sculptures nestling amongst the trees. 
 

Pretty canal cruise with traditional windmill

 
 
 
 
We cooed with delight at the sight of a traditional Swedish windmill on the river bank and my four month old grand daughter kept us entertained with her very own commentary of gurgles and chuckles.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Main Square, Malmo

Next we walked up through the town.  The pedestrianized main streets and squares
were very busy, there appeared to be a festival on, so the city was colourful and lively.  The architecture was subtly different from the Danish and we noted plenty of good shops, various artisan galleries and, of course, we just had to spend time in Marimekko, the famous Finnish fabric design store. 

Things we noticed as significantly different from Copenhagen were the more ethnically diverse population, the littered streets and the large number of beggars about.  From what I have read unemployment is still very high and there are quite clear social divisions. Although I understand Malmo is still suffering from the down turn of the 1990s I do not know enough about the economies or immigration policies of Denmark and Sweden to comment on these startling differences which were quite obvious to us.
 

I drink in the scenery

After wandering the city for a while we headed back to the railway station to enjoy a late lunch at a very attractive café  before catching the train back to Copenhagen.  Wishing to use the toilets I looked around the station for some time before finding one, only to find that it was pay to use and we had no Swedish currency.  Oh dear, just had to wait until on the train.
 
 
 



 

 

Overall I am glad I went to Malmo, it is always interesting to see a new city, but it didn't particularly excite me, for some reason that I can't put my finger on, and I would not bother going there again.  However, our main objective had been to cross the spectacular Oresund Bridge and it did not disappoint.

 

 

There are some lovely craft galleries in Malmo



 

 Just as an aside, there is a trend in the UK at the moment to show Swedish crime thriller series on TV which have attracted a cult following and even a craze for wearing Nordic style jumpers.  My daughter in law had watched the series The Bridge, set on Oresund bridge and had enjoyed it so she was doubly pleased to cross "The Bridge"



Copenhagen - Stroget and Tivoli Gardens

The Royal Guard and Military Band

 
Copenhagen's Stroget is, at 1.1k, said to be the longest pedestrianized shopping street in the world.  With its eclectic mix of shops, from high end fashion to ubiquitous chain stores to cheap souvenir and $2 shops, there is something for everyone and it is a joy to stroll its length unbothered by traffic. We planned to just window shop, however, couldn't resist spending some time in the Royal Copenhagen china shop, drooling over the beautiful, delicate pieces on display.  In the end my daughter-in-law succumbed and bought some pretty little bowls. They will hold great memories. Lingering  at Royal Copenhagen was fortuitous because just as we left the shop the Royal Danish Guard came marching by on their way to the Royal Palace.  My small grandson was beside himself with delight at the sight of the soldiers resplendent in their blue and navy uniforms carrying their rifles and marching to their band.




My morning tea

Other notable shops on Stroget include Georg Jensen, the spectacular Danish silversmith, Illums Bolighus for Danish design pieces and Lego, Denmark's famous toy company's flagship store. If you are affluent, or at least want to see where the affluent shop, Birger Christensen is very high end and the only stockist of Chanel in Denmark.  And, of course, there are Louis Vuitton, Armani etc.,  Down at the Kongens Nytorv end is Tiger.  Laid out over several floors this is the Danish equivalent of a $2 shop but with incredibly good products of Danish design.  We spent a long time in there and bought up large.  Tiger is fantastic value, I highly recommend a visit.   Morning tea was at the famous Lagkagehoust bakery with its vast selection of mouth watering cakes and pastries...what can I say?...just yum!


Fresh fish Smorrebrod for dinner

Later in the day we enjoyed a truly Danish fish smorrebrod (open sandwich), washed down with Danish beer, aboard a boat moored on the canal.  The fresh fish had been caught that day and it was delicious.













Pierrot and Columbine at the Oriental Theatre, Tivoli

Our evening's entertainment was to go to the Tivoli Gardens.  You cannot go to Copenhagen without a trip to Tivoli.  Opened in 1843 Tivoli is a wonderful mix of theme park, beautiful gardens, restaurants and, at night, superb lighting.  Many people go to Tivoli to dine and people watch from the many attractive restaurants ranged around a central lake complete with pirate ship and, of course, the rides are a magnet for the young. 


My grandson enjoys one of the original rides

Tivoli has retained some of its original rides and has kept old traditions alive. One of these is the regular performance of the ballet Pierrot and Columbine on the stage of the Oriental Theatre.  We arrived just as it was starting which entranced my grandson. For me the best part of our visit to Tivoli was watching his delight, enjoying the gardens and watching Tivoli's magical transformation as the lights came on around the park.

Tivoli comes to life when the lights go on

  Tivoli is a fun place, a perfect place for a family outing, it is beautifully maintained with glorious gardens and offers something for everyone.  Our visit to Tivoli was the perfect way to end our stay in Copenhagen. 

The lake at Tivoli